Merkur oil cooler setup question

So for the spin on adapter, do I use the stupid 90 degree stock thing and just leave the stock water one on the block, or do I remove the water jacket thing and use the Permacool piece on there? I don't have a socket big enough for the water jacket here or else I'd not have to ask this seemingly stupid question.
Good news is that everything that gets taken apart is now taken apart. Now comes the fun part of putting it all back together!!!

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Grant Hughes

Also getting a bunch of gauges and wondered if anyone had any recommendations.
Also for oil temp, what range, 100-250 or 140-300. Not sure what normal operating temp should be.

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Grant Hughes

I had good luck with Autometer sport-comp gauges in my scirocco. I think the whole Autometer line is well built. As you guy up the Autometer line I think you are paying primarily for weight reduction rather than any increased accuracy.

Get the larger 2 - 5/8" gauges as they are much easier to read while moving. I heard a thing on one of those NASCAR "tech" shows which I thought was a great idea. The team orients the gauges in the dashboard so when the gauge is reading "normal" the needle is straight up and down. This way the driver did not have to read any of the gauges just look for all the needles to be vertical.

NoCoast Wrote:
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> Also getting a bunch of gauges and wondered if
> anyone had any recommendations.
> Also for oil temp, what range, 100-250 or 140-300.
> Not sure what normal operating temp should be.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

Oil take off thing straight to the block, one straight -10 outlet, one angled -10 outlet so the two fittings arent side by side and no room for a wrench jaw to go 'tween 'em.

Guages get 300f/150 c for oil
100 psi for oil
Get guages you can check and cross check the sender IE look right on the sender and see the range stamped on the sender hex.

Of course that means German.
They're the only ones who mark the sender with its operating range.
It's very easy to be certain then that you have guages matched to senders.

It's soooooooooooooooo easy I'm sure you'll do something else.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'll also make sure to put the straight one on first too. Why do something right the first time, when you can do it twice.

Tracking for driveable rally car mid February-ish.

(Painted whale tail, arches, and grill are sitting right over there. Mmmmm.)

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Grant Hughes

Remember, nearly all the shit I suggest, like this gauge and sender matching that VDO does, is all from, having either done shit wrong SEVERAL different ways or watch friends do shit wrong several ways or several times.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

One of the best ways to learn right.

I couldn't remember who made the gauges in the last car. It was VDO and they were nice. The aforementioned sender range on the sender came in handy when I had to replace mine after hitting a tree in Missouri. Oil pressure sender, bumper, and the fan were oddly the only parts completely ruined in that incident.

So John, my thought was the pressure sender in the old turbo feed spot off the head, then the temp sender, since it can be bought in 1/2" NPT on the remote oil filter.

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Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
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> One of the best ways to learn right.

Oooooh yeah
>
> I couldn't remember who made the gauges in the
> last car. It was VDO and they were nice. The
> aforementioned sender range on the sender came in
> handy when I had to replace mine after hitting a
> tree in Missouri. Oil pressure sender, bumper,
> and the fan were oddly the only parts completely
> ruined in that incident.
>
> So John, my thought was the pressure sender in the
> old turbo feed spot off the head, then the temp
> sender, since it can be bought in 1/2" NPT on the
> remote oil filter.
I did a T in the port on the remote mount.
You could just use a reducer bush 1/2 NPT to 1/8NPT which you could chase to
M10 x 1--again I used that. And fed turbo from the remote not the head (highest up, fartheest from oil pump, first to starve, eh)
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So are you saying a T with both temp and pressure up there and just plug the feed on the head?

Already got the fittings to do AN-6 to the turbo. Wondering if that's a bit too big though. May reduce it down to AN-4.

Fucking AN stuff adds up so quick. Six -10 adapters for oil cooler setup, twelve hose ends, plus some hose. Wait until you see the uber-overkill coolant feed hose from the expansion tank to the radiator. It was free though.

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Grant Hughes

Oil temp sensors need to have a pretty constant flow of oil over them. Genarally having them at a dead end, or in a T, does not work all that well.

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Chris

The oil temp one will be at the oil filter and will have flow. The oil pressure will be at the head. The water temp will be at lower intake manifold.

The water feed line off the lower intake manifold is 3/8" NPT
The turbo oil into the block is 1/2" NPT
The turbo off of head is 1/4" NPT

All gauges are going to be VDO. Oil pressure sender will be the one with the dual contacts for a warning light too.

I hate wiring.

Chuck W engine mounts went in today. Super easy install and burly. Realized that the tranny mount and both engine mounts were all ruined. Literally in pieces on every one. Surprising the whole damn thing didn't fall out of the car at some point. 23 year old bolts, rubber hoses, wiring, etc. all sucks.

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Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:

>
> Chuck W engine mounts went in today. Super easy
> install and burly.

If its that easy, pull them out and zap a steel "can" maybe halfway down the lower bush and use sumpin a little bigger ID than the poly OD.
No street guy can begin to imagine the stresses rally cars put on their mounts.
I have mine Chuck mounts too and I like them but a mount must ALWAYS be constrained from flexing too much. If you don't limit movement, it will move. Give it maybe 1/4" all round
DOOOOOOO EEEEEEEIT.
I intend to add cans surrounding the lower one on mine and mine are going on the street beater.



Realized that the tranny mount
> and both engine mounts were all ruined. Literally
> in pieces on every one. Surprising the whole damn
> thing didn't fall out of the car at some point.
> 23 year old bolts, rubber hoses, wiring, etc. all
> sucks.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

We did something similar with the guages on the Formula 500 car I used to have.

Except that we oriented them horizontally instead of vertically.
That way, all the needles were pointing to 9:00 when operating normally.

It was much easier to see any deviation of the needle at speed from being just flat.

I guess horizontal or vertical is a matter of personal preference, but I liked horizontal because then there should be a single flat line all the way across the dash.

p.s. how is the scirocco? I didn't see an entry for it for Sand Blast.

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mvt
www.kvt-mvt.org

The scirocco is good, I assume. I sold it Dec. '06 to a couple of brothers out of VA. I think one of the brothers got deployed to Iraq which put the rally career on hold. Hopefully they will bring the car out when the one brother comes back to the states.

Hey Andrew, Is your old car on the car on RNY entry list?

http://newyorkusa2008.rallies.info/entries.php?type=u

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!