E36 M42 Build

Quote
Garrett Griffith
I think i've just about fixed everything so far. There is a very very minor oil leak (1 drop per 3 weeks) and I figured out the rear diff has a loose pre-load pinon gear (makes the growl on decel). Those are the only things I can think of that might be a future problem but are very hard to deal with. SOOO I'll address them after the first rally.

Nah uhhh, Growl on decel hain't gonna get better on its own..
a) you HAVE check the oil in the diff. right?
b) you have checked apparent lash? (Get an assistant. jack the car. crawl under and have assistant hold propshaft....you grab one output flange and rock it fore and aft.. It should be BARELY DETECTABLE lash.. book probably says something like 0,15mm +- 0,05 which is .006" +- .002.
That is nearly nuthin when there is oil or what was once oil and maybe now is sploogie goo..

The BEST thing to avoid a Dee En Eff miles from nowhere would be to do the lash chack with the diff rear cover off... Yeah yeah, messy but so is 'splodin' a ring gear all over...

The NORMAL way that diffs die --aside from the "normal" and most common lack of oil---way too common---is the collapsible spacer between the taper roller bearings on the pinion, this thing







Collapses..The ring gear "screws"itself in to the ring gear when you get on the gas. It relaxes when you coast or brake, then you jump on it again and WHAM all the powerz the mighty Bee Em makes slames it IN..Repeated 5 million times that soft collapisble spacer incrementally collapses.. And then you've lost your bearing pre-load, then the super precise position of the pinion moves more and more and soon you chew off the tops of ring gear toofies and maybe bang up the pinion..Nomal with all pinions that have collapsible spacers*

You COULD see if there is a torque figure for turning force ---ya put a socket on the complaion flange nut and (with half shafts disconnected) turn the pinion and read off how many inch/lbs it takes to turn the pinion..
INCH Lebz..like 4 to 6..hain't much..

But its silly to ignore it..



*Obviously in a car you really intend to pound hard you do not use a collpsible spacer..you make a solid spacer..The whole procedue is detailed in Ford's wonderful book "How to Prepare the Sierra for Motorsport"

I'm sure everybody has a copy and is intimately familiar with the procedure and has done this on all their pinions.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

This is helpful information! I have already drain and changed the diff oil. The pinion nut needs around 210ft/lbs. I dont have a tool to measure that currently. I wouldn't expect this diff to last much longer any how as this car has around 300k miles (just gotta make it through the first rally). My current plan you may ask? Just get another diff down the road instead of spending time and money for repairs when I can spend ~roughly the same amount for another used diff. No tellin how long this had been a problem before I got the car. I will check the lash this weekend when I finish removing the AC and get you that strut plate. @john

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"Cut the don'ts" - Garrett

Okay, so last night I tossed a tool at the car and this happened...


This is so I could remove shrouding and the AC condenser and fan. While I was at it, I drained the coolant from the radiator and then pulled the rad out. From there I removed the clutch fan to be replaced with an electric 16" 1730 cfm fan. ~$40. Doing all of this gave me lots of room!

If you look at the bottom left most pulley, that is the AC compressor. SOMEONE HELP ME! I dont know how to take the pulley off to gain access to the remaining bolts. I am trying to remove it and the mounting bracket (AC pump must go before I can access it). I took the snap ring off....so I just pull? I really cant figure this one out. Any how, once that is out, ill put back in the bit I need. John, I just gotta figure out how to remove the end nut and the plate will be on its way.

welp, off to harbor freight for the 4th of July sale and back to the shop.

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"Cut the don'ts" - Garrett

Negatory on the pinion nut torque! That torque figure is just an idea. See that crush sleeve John posted? That will keep on crushin'.

The correct way to tighten that nut is to measure the amount of force it takes to turn the pinion. It is usually about 8in-lb or "just a little resistance" after the play goes away. The torque figure is important mainly because if you get to the correct preload and the nut does not need much torque to get there, then the crush sleeve is too small. The sleeve serves as something to tighten the nut against, and now nut isn't tightened against anything, and it's gonna loosen up.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

any way to fix this without diving into a diff teardown? 0-10 how critical is this?

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"Cut the don'ts" - Garrett

I'd just buy a different used ine from a.junkyard then rebuild this one as needed.

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Grant Hughes

Okay, so its been about a month so I thought I'd give a brief update. AC has been completely removed along with the sun roof cassette and cutting out the rear speaker area. All in all around 100lbs gone. I also got an electric fan to replace the mechanical clutch fan to do away with parasitic drag and scrap every last bit of power from the mighty M42.

Before some pictures, lets update 'the list'.
DONE list:
replaced transmission
new rear main seal
new pilot bearing
new light weight flywheel
new clutch assembly
all the clutch fixn's
new guibo
hood pins
replaced oil filter housing gasket
replaced power steering pump and hoses
changed fluids
stripped car
bucket seats
harnesses
seat mounting brackets
fixed outboard lights
inspected/insured/and state registered
+coolant flush
+a/c delete
+gravel tires
+bushings replaced
+remove sunroof

NOT DONE list:
finish removing wires (This weekend)
roll cage (ordered)
anti sub mounts for harness
paint interior
skid plate
diff plate (optional)
under armor
mud flaps (need to install)
suspension (ordered)
spill kit
med kit
fire extinguishers
front windows need repair (I have lexan windows to replace them)
install cover for sun roof hole
add roof vents
secure battery compartment
+figure out a security method
+make switch panel
+install seats and harnesses
+install light bar
+tire tie downs
+call it a day

Okay so now that the list is updated, Id like to share what is planed for the near future. So obviously the roll cage and interior painting is by far the most time consuming aspect in the 'NOT DONE' list. Unfortunately painting is dependent on completion of the roll cage. So those are the two biggest aspects of the car kinda out of my hands. Another is suspension. John I hope things are moving smoothly. If you need anything, let me know! ha.

So 8 Black Rocket BR44s came in a few days ago. SUPER EXCITED! Just look at these puppies!!


I cant wait to paint the bottle cap wheels and see how everything looks together!

Last weekend I removed the AC as mentioned before as well as the clutch fan. I need a way to cool the engine because I had to do a coolant flush. There is SO MUCH ROOM now!! super awesome!

This fan and the addition of no AC condenser makes the new idle temp needle rest at about 2/5 of the gauge. Really nice since I will be pushing they motor to its death most likely. lol

And here so just some of the junk I pulled.


The ball is definitely rolling now. I expect the car to be complete for the race in about another month. That leave very very little room for shakedowns and trip prep.

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Be excellent to each other

Quote
Da_Elderly
roll cage (ordered)

From Where?

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Power means nothing if you cannot control it!

Custom Cages.

well. The ball didn't roll as fast as Id hoped...

I have been just spending time at school and then doing a bit of research and more planning for when the time comes. HOPEFULLY, the car will be stage legal by December as there is a rally sprint in Austin. Not really getting my hopes up as not much has gone to plan time wise. NEW MAIN GOAL 2017 100AW. This is mid March and my spring break. This should be plenty of time to get everything done.

I have been tackling the horrible black tar sound deadening stuff still. and organizing the wires for removal (as cage builder requested). This should be fun..

At least John got the front suspension to me. sooper bitchin! No more blown stock old junk stuff. I honestly have yet to lower the car and see how it sits. I know I know, but the strut mount nuts are self locking, so once tight, you need new ones. (to keep the effectiveness of them lol) This coming weekend is calling for amazing weather, so ill fiddle with car bits. Still waiting for the cage to arrive (idk whats actually causing the slow down )

I also figured out a way to mount my lexan windows so they can be removed by safety peeps. My theory is that I put the windows in, push them up as far as they will go. Then drill two holes at each bottom corner (as low as possible). Then insert pull pins (the window load is now on the pins which sit on the door ledge) with little ball spring things in them. idk. So all you gotta do is pull two pins, then the window is loose and free. Easy to do.

Now for pictures.

You can see the piston size difference. its huuugggge *Trump voice*

Hole was problematic as it was just a HAIR too small. 1 round file and 10 minutes later...perfect

installed. I actually have no idea what to do with the brake lines and things that were atttached to the origial. Zip tie to lower shock?? I dont want them to get crushed by the shocks on a hard compression.


Meanwhile, I have to keep myself excited and sane despite the slow progress...so what do I do? I GEAR UP! Ill be trying out the zamp Z-Tech head and neck restraint. Its SFI 38.1 approved and about a buck fifty cheaper than HANS and it is very adjustable. Yes, I know what you are thinking...Black fire suit will get hot, yeah I know. But I got it used (very nice condition) for like $100 off.

As for the rear suspension, I will be working with John (doing most of the work, ha) to rig up a modified rear upper control arm so coilovers will fit. These are for reference only.




So yeah, just really waiting for the roll cage to get here and installed so I can just throw the rest in, literally. I want to rallycross some, but I need to mount those windows to pass "safety". Look, its passenger side that is down, my limbs wont fly out over there, lol. Again, December is the new short term stage legal goal. This will give me a great shakedown and time to fix or add dire needed things prior to 100AW. But for now, just wait for that damn cage to get here...


EDIT: Oh yeah, I just found out I need go-go juice protection. I shall begin research on mounting points and material.

I also need to verify the condition of motor mounts and half shafts. If I recall, they work but are in poor condition (ie. old and torn boots)

DONE list:

• replaced transmission
• new rear main seal
• new pilot bearing
• new light weight flywheel
• new clutch assembly
• all the clutch fixn's
• new guibo
• hood pins
• replaced oil filter housing gasket
• replaced power steering pump and hoses
• changed fluids
• stripped car
• bucket seats
• harnesses
• seat mounting brackets
• fixed outboard lights
• inspected/insured/and state registered
• + a/c delete
• + gravel tires
• + bushings replaced
• + spill kit
• + med kit
• + front suspension

NOT DONE list:

• + fuel tank protection
• finish removing wires
• roll cage
• anti sub mounts for harness
• paint interior
• skid plate
• mud flaps
• rear suspension
• fire extinguishers
• front windows need repair
• remove sunroof and install cover for hole
• secure battery compartment

OPTIONAL list:

• diff plate
• under armor
• oil pressure sensor and cooler
• power steering cooler

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Be excellent to each other



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2016 11:49PM by Da_Elderly.

I'll sell you a caged Compact. :-)

I never try to remove all the wiring fur the BMW cage. One time we did spent hours chasing a missing ground. I usually pull it all to center of tunnel and wrap it, usually I've been using boxes but we now have these cool heavy canvas tube Velcro things. I think it's something from Rovers...
I don't think you should need a modified upper arm to fit coil overs. I'll know for sure in a couple weeks when the new DMS stuff arrives but given the propensity of race cars out there, I doubt it.
We may be doing another big order of gravel wheels if you're interested. I bent 5 or 6 of the stock alloys in two different styles this year in four events (maybe 80-100 total miles). Only had one real off. 15x6.5et25 on the wheels.

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Grant Hughes

I did lexan on mine. Fronts have 1/4 turn butterfly dzus fittings on inside. Next car will keep glass and electric operation. Lexan sucks to seal and keep clean.

Use the moon roof panel to fill the hole. It's a bit of a pest to seperate, even having done like four or five now I still always forget how. Or block the memory.

You can buy a steel tank for around $150. Few people out there, Kern particularly have simply layered kevlar directly on the tank.
Rear diff guards are one of those things I just never get around to doing in my cars. Gotten lucky so far, even stopped bringing a spare diff any more. It's in my mental list of to do. Maybe once we get that hydraulic press brake built and operational.

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Grant Hughes

Quote
NoCoast
I did lexan on mine. Fronts have 1/4 turn butterfly dzus fittings on inside. Next car will keep glass and electric operation. Lexan sucks to seal and keep clean.

Use the moon roof panel to fill the hole. It's a bit of a pest to seperate, even having done like four or five now I still always forget how. Or block the memory.

You can buy a steel tank for around $150. Few people out there, Kern particularly have simply layered kevlar directly on the tank.
Rear diff guards are one of those things I just never get around to doing in my cars. Gotten lucky so far, even stopped bringing a spare diff any more. It's in my mental list of to do. Maybe once we get that hydraulic press brake built and operational.

ill just rivet a thin piece of aluminum over the moon roof hole. Should be easy. I agree the lexan will be a pain, but not as much as fixing regulators and re-mounting them.

Two thoughts to buying used. 1.) I could have been having fun a LOT faster 2.) I wouldnt have really learned how cars work. For me, the latter is much more important as going into this project I was didn't know how a clutched work, ha.

I REALLY dont want to mess with wiring, haha. I want to just label and bundle everything so its just out of the way. (tunnel as you said sounds like a good place)

I should probably edit my post again making a OPTIONAL list for non functional requirements. Lemme do that meow.

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Be excellent to each other

Quote
NoCoast

I don't think you should need a modified upper arm to fit coil overs. I'll know for sure in a couple weeks when the new DMS stuff arrives but given the propensity of race cars out there, I doubt it.
.

Why wait a couple of weeks? look at this photo..
Tell us why you don't think he needs modding thatupper arm..Is clearance not an issue?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham


Why wait a couple of weeks? look at this photo..
Tell us why you don't think he needs modding thatupper arm..Is clearance not an issue?

It might just be really easy to cut out a wedge shape and call it good. Quick and easy for now. I know the small mono arm design would be stronger, but do I need that for my first few rallies?

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Be excellent to each other