Mark 4 VW 1.8T GTi Build - RallyCross - MF Class

Use an audio device with Bluetooth connectivity. CDs skip instantly, and USB drives can wiggle loose. Bluetooth is where it's at. But be careful when using a phone to throw meadia t othe headunit, I've had my phone dial 911 during a run before. That was embarassing!





Also, steering quickeners would be nice. 3 turns lock to lock suuuuuuucks

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2017 09:20PM by Pete.

I have thought about a quickener. I have the Audi TT/ VW R32 rack which replaces the oem 3:1 with a 2.5:1, but I would still like it quicker. If I could break that in half, and have 1.25:1, that seems like it would be extremely efficient.
The quickener is above my thought process, but I know Leon did one in his National Championship winning build, and he is rumored to be attending the Daytona event next month with the double points back to back events. If he shows up, I may ask him to give me some pointers.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2017 06:15AM by DanielSL.

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Pete
Use an audio device with Bluetooth connectivity. CDs skip instantly, and USB drives can wiggle I've had my phone dial 911 during a run before. That was embarassing!

Wait till you get something newer and the CAR calls 911 because it thinks you've been in an accident.

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DanielSL
I have thought about a quickener. I have the Audi TT/ VW R32 rack which replaces the oem 3:1 with a 2.5:1, but I would still like it quicker. If I could break that in half, and have 1.25:1, that seems like it would be extremely efficient.
The quickener is above my thought process, but I know Leon did one in his National Championship winning build, and he is rumored to be attending the Daytona event next month with the double points back to back events. If he shows up, I may ask him to give me some pointers.

Now we are talking good rallycross mods. stock rack cut by 1:2 quickener would be perfect. Requires custom welding it into the column but is not rocket science. extremely helpful in tight courses/sections. Should have been one of your first mods.

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paperpaper

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DanielSL
I have thought about a quickener. I have the Audi TT/ VW R32 rack which replaces the oem 3:1 with a 2.5:1, but I would still like it quicker. If I could break that in half, and have 1.25:1, that seems like it would be extremely efficient.
The quickener is above my thought process, but I know Leon did one in his National Championship winning build, and he is rumored to be attending the Daytona event next month with the double points back to back events. If he shows up, I may ask him to give me some pointers.

Now we are talking good rallycross mods. stock rack cut by 1:2 quickener would be perfect. Requires custom welding it into the column but is not rocket science. extremely helpful in tight courses/sections. Should have been one of your first mods.

We should put him in touch with Anthony and his crazy variable electronic power steering and 2:1 quickener...

This week, we're going to install all the metal replacement cooling bits, and the rest of the silicone hoses that finally showed up.
Also, got these pretty trick rear upper sock mounts from USRT. They will give us one more inch of ride height on the rear, which will take some of the compression out of the coilover and helper springs. A big thank you to Scott over at USRT for getting these to us before the big double points event at Daytona next month.
I love the spherical bearings replacing the junk oem rubber in the mount itself. Should be a big improvement.

After exploding the passengers side outer CV all over the infield at Daytona, this will be Fridays project. Need to be up and running for the June event. Already half way through the season.

Gator Axles, Stage 2 build.

When they installed the Gator axle, the shop installed new lower control arm bushings, and new lower ball joints. Car felt great at the event this past Saturday. Gathered up another second in class, but more importantly 5th overall out of 28 drivers.

Well done! Now cage that sumbitch and get on stage!

Been working on cage designs with Goomba Fabrication. He just had four cages pass tech inspection first time through at the SandBlast Rally this year, all from our Region. So I'm pretty confident with his work. We are doing it in a two-step process, with both main hoops (A & B pillars), upper halo, door sill bars, and rear tie bars in the first step. That will give me the safety for Rally Sprints next year. Then the following season, we will add in the "X" for the doors and the rear, which will tie it all in, and make it FIA compliant.

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DanielSL
Been working on cage designs with Goomba Fabrication. He just had four cages pass tech inspection first time through at the SandBlast Rally this year, all from our Region. So I'm pretty confident with his work. We are doing it in a two-step process, with both main hoops (A & B pillars), upper halo, door sill bars, and rear tie bars in the first step. That will give me the safety for Rally Sprints next year. Then the following season, we will add in the "X" for the doors and the rear, which will tie it all in, and make it FIA compliant.

Just for a glossary of terms here, "Halo" cages are not FIA compliant (though will pass NASA tech under MRC-4 regs). There is only one "Hoop," which is the main hoop, the bars that come off the main hoop and forward (by the A pillar) are the "Front laterals." Remember that a complete FIA compliant cage will also have an A-pillar bar that intersects the X in the door. If you want to do more than NASA events, I'd do an FIA-legal cage as the halo cage will not pass tech at Rally America or American Rally Association events.

Not a bad plan for two step, it just adds to prep work and cost, but also spreads cost so it's not all at once. His cages passing tech is a good thing, but be sure as its being built that you and he are in contact with your "local" scrutineer and you disclose exactly what you're trying to do through the whole process (even if it's just this first half, you'll pay for it if it has to change later).

NASA Scrutineer's list: http://nasarallysport.com/main/contact



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/27/2017 08:51AM by dunhamr1.

Ryan;

Thanks for the correct terminology. By Halo, I meant the bars connecting the main hoop (at the B pillars), to the "hoop" at the A pillars. That way we have four mounted FIA correct feet already in the car. As the feet will be in, we will mount the door sill bars, to keep ease of ingress/egress for this season. As I will have the roof scoop in before the cage is done, he will be able to do the bars between the hoops (or what I called the halo), as he will know where my scoop is situated. He will also do the bars coming down from the B pillar main hoop to the rear strut towers to tie it in, and make it a full 6 point set-up.
That leaves two "X" set ups in the back, a lower bar between the B pillars down low, just above the feet, and the two door "X" set ups for the following year. Also, if I decide to go forward into the forward strut towers, that will be left for the following year as well. By leaving the door "X" out, we can add the additional bar on the A pillar at the same time as the "X" to make it a full FIA legal cage.

Daniel,

That's what I figured, just keeping things straight, because there is something called a Halo cage, which has a halo hoop that goes all the way around the roofline forward of the main hoop (like a halo around your head) that has the forward (a-pillar) arms going forward from there.

See page 2, MRC-4 diagram: http://nasarallysport.com/rules-forms/NASA-Rally-Sport-GRR-Appendix-B.pdf

Definitely go download and read all the way through FIA 253 Appendix J though and familiarize yourself with all of the different configurations before things get started (I know its early).

We will be using 253-1 off of that page, as well as 253-14 off the following page. That is actually the guidance we are following for our discussions.
After that, we are using 253-21 and 253-7 for the back "X"'s, and 253-9 for the doors - plus - the lower door sill bars.

Good, mostly trying to wave you off from the "halo" hoop cage.