1991 BMW 318is rally cross build

Glad I found this site, I'm Danny from Oregon and I like to play in the dirt. This will be my first real foray into rally, I love the idea of it all. Any how, I recently purchased a 91' 318is for $1300 and am currently refreshing it just so I can go out and beat on it.


Engine:

Engine mounts - Installed
Transmission mounts - purchased
(4) BMW Coils - Installed
Spark plugs - Installed
Intake manifold runner gasket - Installed
Intake manifold plenum gasket - Installed
Throttle body gasket - Installed
Engine temp sending unity - Installed
Air Filter - purchased
AFM (reconditioned) - purchased
TPS sensor - purchased
Throttle cable - purchased


Suspension:

Refurbished steering rack (stock) - purchased
Left and right steel control arms (front) - Installed
Tie rod assm. (left and right) - purchased
Front Poly bushings (control arms) - Installed
Brake rotors and pads(front and rear) - installed
Rear trailing arm bushes (Poly) - purchased
Subframe bushes (Poly) - purchased
Front swaybar bushings (powerflex Poly)- Installed
Front swaybar links- Installed
rear swaybar bushings (powerflex Poly)- purchased
rear swaybar links - purchased

Interior:
New Shift Knob - purchased
Kirkey 18 degree layback aluminum seats (2) - To purchase

So here is where I am:










My boss gifted me some really oldschool Hella fog lights from the early 80's that he had on an old Datsun, also gave me new in package 100w bulbs from Japan which I believe are illegal here in the states, but for offroad use only it may be ok..




So todays adventure was extracting a broken off key in the drivers side door lock. The removal of the door lock wasn't that bad but disassembling and then reassembling the lock cylinder was a chore with all those tiny fiddly parts. Alas, I managed and now have a "working" door lock. Parts for brakes and suspension should be showing up Monday of next week so I'll post then.





Todays adventure was disassembling (and cleaning) the throttle body, intake runners and manifold to clean up the "mess under the intake" and try and track down that code 1222. Gaskets will arrive Tuesday or Wednesday of next week so I'll update when those arrive for some more pictures.






Todays adventure was cleaning the intake manifold runners where they meet the head flange and also cleaning the gunk out of the injector orifices. They were almost completely covered with oily gunk, it was nasty and I went through 2 cans of degreaser, they aren't perfect but the results are amicable for me.

Before:



After:



Update for today, installed 4 new OEM coils, don't know if I needed them but figured it wouldn't hurt. (maybe the wallet..)



Lots of parts showed up today from Husker BMW, gaskets, spark plugs, engine mounts, transmission mounts etc.




On partial reassembly I wanted to check out the intake ports, they look alright, much cleaner than the intake runners for some reason. Maybe because of the heat difference? Any how I am ok with how they look and didn't attempt to clean them.




Suspension components show up tomorrow so I'll update then, waiting on fuel line so I can button up the engine and try and start it. My goal is to have it running by this weekend, fingers crossed!


Some parts showed up today, Febi control arms, BMW motor mounts, Powerflex lollipop bushings and sway bar bushings, sway bar end links front and rear and a few other misc parts.




installed control arms and bushings on the passenger side first, hopefully the drivers side goes easier since there isn't an exhaust manifold in the way because that was a huge pain in the ass.




I was struggling trying to pull the lollipops off of the control arms so I pulled out my ball joint tool, it worked to an extent and then I had to hammer on it for about 20 minutes to free it.






I'll try to do the drivers side tomorrow, oh I forgot, also installed the new motor mounts as well just didn't take a picture.

Today I painted the front passenger side fender that was replaced due to an accident by the PO. I used a kit from a place called "Scratch Wizards" out of Tigard Oregon. The kit is a modest $49.99 and comes with an aerosol can of primer, base coat and clear coat, also a scouring pad, small tube of body filler and oil and grease remover. I think it is worth the price and allowed me to repaint my entire fender with some leftover for small touchups.

Before:




After:





Today I got an electric fan conversion done, I went for a SPAL 16" pusher and eliminated the viscous fan. Couple reasons for this, firstly the viscous coupling was shot so the car would start warming up at long stop lights and secondly, the air conditioning didn't work when I got the car and I had no intentions of making it work so out it goes! (and because race car)
Next, I had some exhaust work done today from a company in Salem called Salem Exhaust LLC. I have had other work done there as well and he always does great work. I am using all Vibrant products, namely the vibrant "StreetPower" muffler and "Ultra Quiet Resonator" Then replacing the cat with a Magnaflow 99005HM.


Part numbers for the exhaust parts:
Magnaflow 99005HM
Vibrant 1104 2.25" Ultra Quiet Resonator
Vibrant 1145 Street Power Muffler

16" SPAL Pusher:



Exhaust components:




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2016 06:23PM by formyhealth.

Return that rack and get an e36 rack, preferably one out of a Z3. The e30 rack is over 4 turns lock to lock, Z3 is 2.7 though some say 2.4

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

I thought about it but the installation is not straight forward since I have an airbag car (requires spacers, steering linkage modification and steering linkage to firewall clearancing.) At this point I'll stick with the stock remanned rack to eliminate the large puddle under the car and at some time in the future will probably switch over.

Quote
turoc
Return that rack and get an e36 rack, preferably one out of a Z3. The e30 rack is over 4 turns lock to lock, Z3 is 2.7 though some say 2.4

Quick steering and short gearing are two things that really make it fun to beat a car..You can fake it with suspension some (match anything is better than mismatched--and thatinvariably means insanely high spring rates with limp-dic damper/struts) but you can't do a thing about 17 turn lock to lock steering or 2.87 final drive.

Nice car Oh Pea..Don't make it too purdy--it angers rally gods, and they'll show you what a sin vanity is

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
formyhealth
I thought about it but the installation is not straight forward since I have an airbag car (requires spacers, steering linkage modification and steering linkage to firewall clearancing.) .

Can you fix that problem easily?

Betcha this would get it out quick time!


wait! if the Hair Bag works, carefully pull it and sell on Craigslist for Booo Kooo (or is that beaucoup) monies! profit and use the valuta to build the car!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
turoc
Return that rack and get an e36 rack, preferably one out of a Z3. The e30 rack is over 4 turns lock to lock, Z3 is 2.7 though some say 2.4

Quick steering and short gearing are two things that really make it fun to beat a car..You can fake it with suspension some (match anything is better than mismatched--and thatinvariably means insanely high spring rates with limp-dic damper/struts) but you can't do a thing about 17 turn lock to lock steering or 2.87 final drive.

Nice car Oh Pea..Don't make it too purdy--it angers rally gods, and they'll show you what a sin vanity is

Thanks I agree with you, I've got plenty of paint runs already so I am well on my way to making it look half assed. You're actually the guy that brought me to this site, I saw a build thread that Dave Kern did with regards to that suspension you built, nice looking kit!

Danny



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2016 08:40PM by formyhealth.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
formyhealth
I thought about it but the installation is not straight forward since I have an airbag car (requires spacers, steering linkage modification and steering linkage to firewall clearancing.) .

Can you fix that problem easily?

Betcha this would get it out quick time!


wait! if the Hair Bag works, carefully pull it and sell on Craigslist for Booo Kooo (or is that beaucoup) monies! profit and use the valuta to build the car!

LOL! Yeah that'd do it I'm sure, I've got to get my feet wet first I think..

Quote
formyhealth
Thanks I agree with you, I've got plenty of paint runs already so I am well on my way to making it look half assed. You're actually the guy that brought me to this site, I saw a build thread that Dave Kern did with regards to that suspension you built, nice looking kit!

Danny

OOh that's kewl..Dave is a real good guy..Crazy in a good way and no bullshit, no backstabbin...and good analysis--ya know? When we were doing that I said OK we have to try some things and so we did, Then he thought "whaddya think of maybe....." so we tried some different things...
Not moaning and butt-hurt all over the World Wide Net..

You know what the back axle ratio is on that thing?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
formyhealth
Thanks I agree with you, I've got plenty of paint runs already so I am well on my way to making it look half assed. You're actually the guy that brought me to this site, I saw a build thread that Dave Kern did with regards to that suspension you built, nice looking kit!

Danny

OOh that's kewl..Dave is a real good guy..Crazy in a good way and no bullshit, no backstabbin...and good analysis--ya know? When we were doing that I said OK we have to try some things and so we did, Then he thought "whaddya think of maybe....." so we tried some different things...
Not moaning and butt-hurt all over the World Wide Net..

You know what the back axle ratio is on that thing?

Yeah, read through his whole build, don't know him personally but he seems sharp for sure. Ratio on mine? it's a 4.10 open, looking for a 4.10 LSD for all the torques.

4.10 lsd is the stuff. you need all you can get with the M42. Ditch the steering rack. make it happen with 2.7 to 1 z3 rack. you cannot go fast without it. (unless you dont like to go sidewaze) If you are worried about the puddle ditch the power steers all together. especially with your light front end its not needed on course. and get your self race size steering wheel. the tractor trailer wheel bmw ships is very nice and cozy but seriously big.

Ditch at least the rear sway bar. Its seriously un-nessasary in the car. even with the lighter m42 i bet the rear will be way too stiff. Plus you are pissing away loose surface traction. I just pulled the front bar from my rx car and its great. need all the bite you can get.

Quote
paperpaper
4.10 lsd is the stuff. you need all you can get with the M42. Ditch the steering rack. make it happen with 2.7 to 1 z3 rack. you cannot go fast without it. (unless you dont like to go sidewaze) If you are worried about the puddle ditch the power steers all together. especially with your light front end its not needed on course. and get your self race size steering wheel. the tractor trailer wheel bmw ships is very nice and cozy but seriously big.

Ditch at least the rear sway bar. Its seriously un-nessasary in the car. even with the lighter m42 i bet the rear will be way too stiff. Plus you are pissing away loose surface traction. I just pulled the front bar from my rx car and its great. need all the bite you can get.

Thank you for all the good information, I knew this would be a good site! As for the steering rack, if I use a blockoff plate I can eliminate the pump and associated lines, but doesn't the rack need SOME lubrication? I got a new steering wheel recently, I don't know how the old one felt because it wasn't running when I bought it, the new wheel is nice though!

I'll try losing the rear bar, I hear losing the front bar on BMWs is the hot ticket though.

Quote
formyhealth

Quote
paperpaper
4.10 lsd is the stuff. you need all you can get with the M42. Ditch the steering rack. make it happen with 2.7 to 1 z3 rack. you cannot go fast without it. (unless you dont like to go sidewaze) If you are worried about the puddle ditch the power steers all together. especially with your light front end its not needed on course. and get your self race size steering wheel. the tractor trailer wheel bmw ships is very nice and cozy but seriously big.

Ditch at least the rear sway bar. Its seriously un-nessasary in the car. even with the lighter m42 i bet the rear will be way too stiff. Plus you are pissing away loose surface traction. I just pulled the front bar from my rx car and its great. need all the bite you can get.

Thank you for all the good information, I knew this would be a good site! As for the steering rack, if I use a blockoff plate I can eliminate the pump and associated lines, but doesn't the rack need SOME lubrication? I got a new steering wheel recently, I don't know how the old one felt because it wasn't running when I bought it, the new wheel is nice though!

I'll try losing the rear bar, I hear losing the front bar on BMWs is the hot ticket though.

He means shit-can the slow rack not power steering. Power steering is nice ( dampens kick back. Its a ZF pump and they're just like any other and it can be tuned if its crazy overboosted, but get the ratio in it..These Xratties that I like so much one of the best things on them is the very nice ZF steering rack..Very good on-center feel, sharp turn in even if its a little slow at 2.65 turns ( really we talk about racks wrong..The real thing is "rack travel per turn..Xratty is 64mm rack travel per turn..compare that to Volvo ZF rack which is 55mm per turn..and just so happens 3.4 turns. When I drive my Xratties around I get in the Volvo---the other good choice--and at left turn at a light I get the gree, I turn the wheel this nmuch and drive head on into the cars going the other way cause it only just slightly turned..)

The hair-bags, I was joking but I had a ciggie and dayum that is a good idea to "harvest" the hair-bag if it hain't blown.

.Sell it and profit!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham


He means shit-can the slow rack not power steering. Power steering is nice ( dampens kick back. Its a ZF pump and they're just like any other and it can be tuned if its crazy overboosted, but get the ratio in it..These Xratties that I like so much one of the best things on them is the very nice ZF steering rack..Very good on-center feel, sharp turn in even if its a little slow at 2.65 turns ( really we talk about racks wrong..The real thing is "rack travel per turn..Xratty is 64mm rack travel per turn..compare that to Volvo ZF rack which is 55mm per turn..and just so happens 3.4 turns. When I drive my Xratties around I get in the Volvo---the other good choice--and at left turn at a light I get the gree, I turn the wheel this nmuch and drive head on into the cars going the other way cause it only just slightly turned..)

The hair-bags, I was joking but I had a ciggie and dayum that is a good idea to "harvest" the hair-bag if it hain't blown.

.Sell it and profit!

Xratty?? I am not familiar with that term lol.. I'll certainly ponder on the swap, I've got some priorities right now though, namely torn RTABS, and subframe bushes.

Got the steering wheel and airbag up on craigs, what'dya figure is fair? I though about $125 or so should be a happy medium.

Screw it, you guys talked me into it, I am returning the stock rack and purchasing a 1996-2000 Z3 rack. Really had to twist my arm huh?

Quote
formyhealth

Xratty?? I am not familiar with that term lol.. .

in the beginning there was the Ford XR4i




Then Ford decoded to import it to Fortress America™ but thought a 2300 SOHC turbo motor would be a better sales thing than the 2,8 Colgne V6 @ 160 hp so they built the US market one subcontracted out to Karmann Weke, shoved the 4 cylinder "Lima" turbo from Mooseangst and Thunderchicken, added body strengthening kit from Ford Motorsport, added a hideous USA crash bumper, softened the springs and dampers and anti roll bars and when Ford USA whined they didn't want something in mainline Ford showrooms next to the clunky '60 tech Frod Moose-angst with its shitty V8, Ford came up with a pretentious and stupid name--and badge --and sold them in "select" Lincoln Mercury dealship..
Thus the Merkur XR4ti was born.



And as they were 'orphan" cars they soon ended up like this



Rather ratty.

Then we get hold of them and do this
www.rallyrace.net/journals

And they come out being class winning rally cars. Like this on built by Sean Medcroft with all the things that make it a rally car supplied by some lunatic in Seattle, now driven by "The new and Improved Dave Clarke from Natchez, WA


and


and some people just having fun grass-o-crossing:


and

http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,98186



If you squint a little that 4 in there looks like an A so when they're no longer ratty, they're Xratty.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.