Whos the fanboy now????????

Quote
john vanlandingham
Danny my good man, dotcha know that books are elitist?

I suppose in a country which appears to give the impression it would rather ban schools than guns to kerb school shootings, it is inevitably the case that books will be viewed as sorcery or witchcraft by many whom have yet to accomplish breaking the code of letters placed on parchment sheets.

It could have been so different...

Kids in school each morning:
I pledge allegiance to the Bentley workshop manual
Particularity the chapters on brakes and other relevant shit that will help me and my fellow earthlings stay alive.
We endeavour not to crack open a 40oz boutellie of brain softner
Then fire up a pack of smokes while removing a half full gasoline tank.
Together as one we will carry the knowledge we have learnt into the future
So our progeny need not endure the humiliation as a consequence of feckin up the installation of a torque converter to an auto-trans.

---

Disappointingly not yet a Jackass

Yeah I got it to seat finally I understood the process but I still couldn't do it I sat there for an hour turning it trying to get the fucker to seat (That's why thought the input shaft was screwed up by me lol) I even stood it on end still no go until I finally broke down thinking about how much I suck balls even though I've pretty much dedicated my entire life to cars, like it's been over a year and I haven't drove shit that's why I'm the laughingstock of mavis discount tire and I tapped on it with the hammer in my hand as I was packing my shit up to leave, and it just sat...I laughed so hard lol

Ok so I got the tranny up in the air finally need a new tranny pan, broke the bellhousong again trying to line it up, I guess your not supposed to line up the trans with the bellhousong bolts

For anyone who wants to know I used a ratchet straps to jack up the bellhousing side, then used a floor jack to jack up the tailhousing side and slid our motorcycle jack under it.

(before you go shoulda read, Says nothing about guide pins in Mitchell on demand or in the Haynes manual)

If this bellhousong breaks in one more spot there will be no top bolt holes so idk I have all the peices so I can JB weld it all back together once it's all lined up...I know It won't be strong but I just need this tranny to get it started maybe drive it around the block. Will I be able to do that missing two bolts or is it too far gone? I was thinking the remaining bolts + JB weld should be enough to keep the tranny attached to the motor right? As long as I can get the tranny seated properly to the motor? My buddy said he did the same thing to his truck and he just JB welded it, but it's a truck, and it was only one hole I think

So anyways it seems like you gotta make these guide pins by cutting the bolt heads off a long bolt the same size but the thing is I don't understand how that would be any different than a bolt with a head on it wouldn't it just do the same thing?

I know I don't read enough or listen and that's the main reason I catch a hard time but really most of it is I really suck at this really bad and you guys have done it before

I probably shouldn't even try to use this transmission but like what happens when I gotta put the T5 up there am I just gonna waste bellhousing after bellhousing before I just finally get it into place?

Plus if I could drop a tranny into a car without fucking it up I'd feel good about myself for once.

I wish everything was tires dude I'm a beast on the Coats I just gotta learn some more about wheel repair and you can call me tire god

The simple reason a "guide pin" would be made by cutting the head off, is that for the part being lined up to slide onto the "pin" the bolt shaft has to go through the mounting hole. This cannot happen if the bolt head is still on, as the flange of the bolt head (or a washer which it captures) is what holds the part in question in place when tightened up.

I have not been an auto mechanic since 1998-99, but I have stayed in the production/manufacturing side by working in the marine industry since then. I also get a lot of flack from the more senior members here for not doing enough research and not "listening" enough. But I will tell you one thing from following your thread, simply as constructive criticism...

A lot of your issues (it seems), and a lot of the problems you have had as stumbling blocks so far have been simple common sense issues. (Of course, this is looking from the outside)

I would recommend that you look at simply slowing down, taking a breath and thinking things through. An easy guideline would be from your career. I ran tire & alignment shops for years before getting out of automotive, so you'll get this... If you have a 22 inch tire locking up on the Coats and lubing it isn't seating the bead over the wheel lip, you don't keep forcing it. You'll either tear the bead, and waste the tire, or you'll hop the guide bar, and gouge the rim. You back it off, and re-set the tire on the guide bar, and go at the whole job from a slightly different angle. (Just wait until you need to seat real rally tires with their insanely stiff sidewalls on 15's).

Back off when something starts to get difficult, and look at it from another angle, or outside the box. You will stop breaking so many parts/pieces.

And just a simple BTW, don't even think about anything more than a simple cruise around the block with more than one hole on a bell-housing JB'd. If that baby decides to let go, you'll most likely bend the input shaft, and cause catastrophic failure which will bend your crankshaft. Then you'll be out an engine and tranny.

Good luck with the project, but start thinking a little more about how you are approaching things. You'll be fine in the long run. Like I tell my employees (daily), there are no stupid questions, just ignorant employees which don't ask questions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2018 06:20AM by DanielSL.

Lol I think my problem is I bought this turd not running so I deserve every bit of this...

Anybody got parts for sale?

Quote
DanielSL
The simple reason a "guide pin" would be made by cutting the head off, is that for the part being lined up to slide onto the "pin" the bolt shaft has to go through the mounting hole. This cannot happen if the bolt head is still on, as the flange of the bolt head (or a washer which it captures) is what holds the part in question in place when tightened up.

I have not been an auto mechanic since 1998-99, but I have stayed in the production/manufacturing side by working in the marine industry since then. I also get a lot of flack from the more senior members here for not doing enough research and not "listening" enough. But I will tell you one thing from following your thread, simply as constructive criticism...

A lot of your issues (it seems), and a lot of the problems you have had as stumbling blocks so far have been simple common sense issues. (Of course, this is looking from the outside)

I would recommend that you look at simply slowing down, taking a breath and thinking things through. An easy guideline would be from your career. I ran tire & alignment shops for years before getting out of automotive, so you'll get this... If you have a 22 inch tire locking up on the Coats and lubing it isn't seating the bead over the wheel lip, you don't keep forcing it. You'll either tear the bead, and waste the tire, or you'll hop the guide bar, and gouge the rim. You back it off, and re-set the tire on the guide bar, and go at the whole job from a slightly different angle. (Just wait until you need to seat real rally tires with their insanely stiff sidewalls on 15's).

Back off when something starts to get difficult, and look at it from another angle, or outside the box. You will stop breaking so many parts/pieces.

And just a simple BTW, don't even think about anything more than a simple cruise around the block with more than one hole on a bell-housing JB'd. If that baby decides to let go, you'll most likely bend the input shaft, and cause catastrophic failure which will bend your crankshaft. Then you'll be out an engine and tranny.

Good luck with the project, but start thinking a little more about how you are approaching things. You'll be fine in the long run. Like I tell my employees (daily), there are no stupid questions, just ignorant employees which don't ask questions.

Thanks for the advice appreciate it.I used to work at the hood Mavis down on South Salina so I got nice at the low pro 22s that's just a normal tire now but this one dude brought his Z06 rims in and he had like runflats that was the worst I've done I got the tire on the rim but the bead wouldn't seat I tried ratchet straps, hammers, cheetas, the works. Sent him to another store that does more tires and they had three dudes try with prybars and shit still couldn't do it. Are gravel tires harder than that? What's the secret?

Quick Answer; Lots of lube, and a Cheetah tank.

How do I tell what kind of bellhousing adapter I have? Aren't the ones that go to Chevy transmissions different than the ones for Mustang transmissions because of the longer input shaft for the Ford? Is that why you need the clutch fork adapter too?

Quote
LexusFman
How do I tell what kind of bellhousing adapter I have? Aren't the ones that go to Chevy transmissions different than the ones for Mustang transmissions because of the longer input shaft for the Ford? Is that why you need the clutch fork adapter too?

If you're talking about T5's, Input shafts are different lengths between Chevy and Ford, most of the Chevy cases use a wider bolt pattern (Same as TKO but rotated almost 20 degrees).

Are you talking bellhousing adapter? or the bellhousing itself?

Probably been read aready but here's a link from Turbobricks (you are working on a volvo if I remember right yes?): http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=3620

Quote
dunhamr1

Quote
LexusFman
How do I tell what kind of bellhousing adapter I have? Aren't the ones that go to Chevy transmissions different than the ones for Mustang transmissions because of the longer input shaft for the Ford? Is that why you need the clutch fork adapter too?

If you're talking about T5's, Input shafts are different lengths between Chevy and Ford, most of the Chevy cases use a wider bolt pattern (Same as TKO but rotated almost 20 degrees).

Are you talking bellhousing adapter? or the bellhousing itself?

Probably been read aready but here's a link from Turbobricks (you are working on a volvo if I remember right yes?): http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=3620

I have a bellhousing adapter with a bellhousing idk if it's a M46 or M47 cuz I've been operating on the assumption the bellhousings are virtually the same. Sorry for the long reply...charging up the parts cannon with cash lol

Parts cannon is charged with cash. My question is, what is the best way to run the clutch for a T5 behind a redblock? Should I go with the stock cable clutch setup, or should I go with a hydraulic setup? What would be easiest and best to drive? What would be the easiest to install?

What would you need to convert a automatic Volvo to take the T5? I have:

1. Flywheel (I think, I'm not getting a crank signal so like that could be it dawg, still gotta run oscilloscope tests)
2. M47 Bell housing w/ bell housing adapter
3. Brand nurr clutch fork

I'm pretty sure that leaves

1. Clutch /Pressure plate
2. Throw out bearing
3. Clutch cable, and/or master cylinder/plumbing the lines
4. Pilot bearing
5. Pedal box

Is there anything else I'm missing?

Anybody have any good book recommendations on manual and/or automatic transmissions? Yeah there's the interwebs but I'm beginning to learn the value of a well written book. And when it comes to automotive, I've chosen trash before XD.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/07/2019 10:21AM by LexusFman.