MK2 Front Motor mount??

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SideburnsSteve
Dang...thats pretty awesome

Yeah and its pretty damn simple too..

I've made similar design for a bunch of RWD cars.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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CALL +1 206 431-9696
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What's wrong with copying what the Rabbits had? As far as I know all VW timing belt style blocks had the mounts for that even up through the 06As. It wasn't the best for NVH but it's simple and it works.

Actually I think VW went BACK to that design for the 2.0 TSI engines, with a Regulation Giant Aluminum Bracket and an overhung arrangement to the shock tower, and something similar for the transmission end. And drivetrain torque regulation was by a simple little bobble strut going from the bottom of the trans to the crossmember, very simple and easy to deal with.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2017 08:06AM by Pete.

So how about axles?? I had a pair rebuilt but they are garbage. Where can a hard working white guy find good drive shafts?? Preferably in Canada...

BTW, the hydro front motor mount is to soft. Crank pulley still hits

Order the GKN/Lobro CV's and rebuild your axles yourself.

Avoid Raxles. They're junk.

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Self-righteous douche canoe

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SideburnsSteve
So how about axles?? I had a pair rebuilt but they are garbage. Where can a hard working white guy find good drive shafts?? Preferably in Canada...

BTW, the hydro front motor mount is to soft. Crank pulley still hits

If you r crank pulley hits the frame rail, you are having side-to-side motion. It is not the fault of the front mount.

This side-to-side motion is also what leads to broken axles at the inner CVs.

Where are your axles failing? The next week spot is the outer CV where the face transitions to the splined stub.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

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hoche
Order the GKN/Lobro CV's and rebuild your axles yourself.

Avoid Raxles. They're junk.

Agreed on both counts.

GKN Lobro outer CVs are very hard to find for mk2/mk3 4-cyl in my experience.

BTW, if anyone is interested, GKN makes lightweight and high-plunge versions of the 100mm inner joints. I have part numbers in an email somewhere I can dig up. About $230 a pop though...

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Quote
Pete
What's wrong with copying what the Rabbits had? As far as I know all VW timing belt style blocks had the mounts for that even up through the 06As. It wasn't the best for NVH but it's simple and it works.

Actually I think VW went BACK to that design for the 2.0 TSI engines, with a Regulation Giant Aluminum Bracket and an overhung arrangement to the shock tower, and something similar for the transmission end. And drivetrain torque regulation was by a simple little bobble strut going from the bottom of the trans to the crossmember, very simple and easy to deal with.

Just for info, the 06A non intermediate shaft / internal waterpump blocks (used in EA113 engines) are slightly different with regards to the bolt spacings at the timing belt end of the block.
The bolt holes are not compatible with the mk1 Golf / Rabbit mount fitted to the EA827 intermediate shaft / external waterpump engines

Any confusion over this could stem from the fact that early 20v engines used a variant of the EA827 block, which does take the mk1 Golf / Rabbit mount.

Of course there are aftermarket conversion mounts which will bolt to an 06A / EA113 engine and allow it to fit the standard chassis leg mount in Golf Mk1 / Rabbit engine bay (if the car was fitted with an EA827 engine and not the smaller capacity EA111 895cc to 1272cc engines which had the engine to chassis leg mount further forward...)

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Disappointingly not yet a Jackass



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/11/2017 03:46PM by danster.

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Josh Wimpey


If you r crank pulley hits the frame rail, you are having side-to-side motion. It is not the fault of the front mount.

This side-to-side motion is also what leads to broken axles at the inner CVs.

Where are your axles failing? The next week spot is the outer CV where the face transitions to the splined stub.

I don't think it's moving side to side. It just sits possibly to far to the passenger side...? The pulley for the power steering pump is really close to the frame rail. So close it's a pain to get the belt on. I've tried to reposition the engine with all the mounts loose, but that's where it wants to sit. It's an ABA swap...

Before you start messing around with axles and CV joints, get the mounts sorted.

They will break left, right and center no matter what you do, as long as you don't have control over the engine/transmission combo.

Don't like vibrations? Too bad... try a different sport (or a shit load of axles and CV joints to replace while wasting entry fees).

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Brgrds
Brian

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SideburnsSteve
I don't think it's moving side to side. It just sits possibly to far to the passenger side...? The pulley for the power steering pump is really close to the frame rail. So close it's a pain to get the belt on. I've tried to reposition the engine with all the mounts loose, but that's where it wants to sit. It's an ABA swap...

What gearbox are you using?
Reason I ask is that the rear engine mount from block to subframe is specific to the gearbox used. If they are mis matched the running gear will sit squint across the engine bay.
IIRC there is approx 15mm difference between the two mounts.

So if you use an 02A trans with a rear engine mount designed for running gear using an 020 trans, the engine will sit squint in the bay with the engine back slightly.
The engine will sit forward slightly if an 020 trans is used with a rear engine mount designed for running gear using an 02A trans.

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Disappointingly not yet a Jackass



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2017 02:58AM by danster.

Hmm, I'm running an 020 but I'm pretty sure it's an 020 mount. I just assumed if it had provision for the shift linkage it would be 020. I had better check that. Thanks.

Something must be out of wack. I realized that on tight turns (parking lot) the engine vibration increases...so the axles must be binding. It wasnt doing this with the previous ABA, so I must got something wrong with the swap.

Clearly, I don't mind engine vibrations Brian if I daily a beat up mk2. This is massively excessive however. Oem mounts and I need ear plugs if I drive longer then 20-30 mins. And, as I said before, this is not a rally car. It's a daily that I use for rally cross and lapping.

Muchly appreciate the help guys!! Best forum on the interwebs!

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SideburnsSteve
Hmm, I'm running an 020 but I'm pretty sure it's an 020 mount. I just assumed if it had provision for the shift linkage it would be 020. I had better check that. Thanks.

To be clear. I am talking about the rear engine to subframe mount.
The rear gearbox mounts are specific to the 020 and 02A boxes, and will not interchange between one another.
The physical size increase of the 02A over the 020 means the box sits slightly further forward and thus necessitates that the rear engine to subframe mount is lengthened by the corresponding amount to ensure the running gear is parallel in the bay.

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SideburnsSteve
Something must be out of wack. I realized that on tight turns (parking lot) the engine vibration increases...so the axles must be binding. It wasnt doing this with the previous ABA, so I must got something wrong with the swap.

If the two M10 bolts that hold the steel stabilizer bar from rear gearbox mount to top of gearbox are installed the wrong way (bolt head nearest clutch side of gearbox) then the protruding threaded sections of the bolts can rub on the chassis leg below the original battery tray.

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Disappointingly not yet a Jackass

Oh ok, sorry I was thinking of the tranny mount. Yes the rear engine mount is 020. Mk3 2.0 bracket and mk3 K frame also.

I actually don't have that bracket installed....i have one, should use it!

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SideburnsSteve
I actually don't have that bracket installed....i have one, should use it!

The cast piece will easily break without it. It will still break with it but it is better than not running it.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Took some pics. See if I can load them on here...

So, are you guys saying that the engine is sitting to far to the passenger side? It's always sat here since the swap. You can see where it was hitting before when the front motor mount was breaking.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2017 08:15PM by SideburnsSteve.