Question about control arm bushings on mk2's

I'm swapping mk3 control arms onto my mk2. I realized that the hole in the rear bushing is larger then the hole in the bushing that is in the old mk2 arm (see pic). And I'm concerned that the arm will move around once I start kicking the shit out of the car again. Im installing new Febi arms with bushings pre installed.

I also bought the sleeves that apparently help adapt the mk3 arms onto mk2's, but they are not much help. I am running a mk3 subframe in case it matters.

I see that there is a semi circle lip on the subframe that i assume will help hold the arm in the right spot, but it still seems to shabby. Ive searched and had no luck. Hoping you guys can shed some light on this.

Thanks!!

20170703_170716 by Stephen Hollema, on Flickr

I am baffled..too many confsusing ideas..are you shooting for the 20 degrees of camber look? You stance , bro?
And those bushes with voids in them...guaranteed tears and rips right at the end of the void, fersure.
On street cars..
What problem are you trying to solve?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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Haha, no I'm not a stance goof. That's for people that like to drive slow on smooth roads. All show no go. I prefer all go no show.

Basically, my mk2 axles are all crap. I had good mk3 axles and everything to do the swap. So why not!? I didn't for see this query.

I think those shims / sleeves thingys are supposed to help center the bushing, but they don't fit through the bolt hole in the subframe. Bigger hammer? The guys at work don't remember cars that old anymore either. Ugh.

Gotta be some mk2 guys that have delt with this...

Thanks guys!!

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SideburnsSteve
Haha, no I'm not a stance goof. That's for people that like to drive slow on smooth roads. All show no go. I prefer all go no show.

Basically, my mk2 axles are all crap. I had good mk3 axles and everything to do the swap. So why not!? I didn't for see this query.

I think those shims / sleeves thingys are supposed to help center the bushing, but they don't fit through the bolt hole in the subframe. Bigger hammer? The guys at work don't remember cars that old anymore either. Ugh.

Gotta be some mk2 guys that have delt with this...

Thanks guys!!

OK there were guys yapping on the Secret Closed to the Public Faceploop page about the "longer" whatever arms that are 1 inch longer per side..maybe this isn't the same deal
Anyway those bushes suck big green donkey dicks and fail miserably on street cars. ALL bushes with those cresent voids fail that way..Gag!!!

So if you solved that with a nice solid bush personally I'd look at upping the nut the M12 screws into to 12mm ...
12mm is bigger-er-er and biggerer-er-er is bigger than 10, so a good thing..

Are those arms longer from pivot to ball joint? Is the ball joint pin bigger? I think some are 15mm and some are 17..Again bigger-er is bigger... I like bigger

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
SideburnsSteve

20170703_170716 by Stephen Hollema, on Flickr

The top arm in the photo has an mk2/mk3 bushing in it with the larger hole. These require the centering sleeve you also have pictured.

The lower arm pictured has an R32 or Audi TT bushing with no voids and the smaller hole that does not require the centering sleeve.

You should definitely run the type shown in the lower photo and not the top photo as they will only last a few events before they are worn the F out.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

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I agree with Josh.

I ran the Audi bushings.

I additionally have drilled out & retapped the captive nuts in the chassis, and instead of factory 12mm bolts, I run 1/2" bolts.

Run the Audi TT solid rubber bushings, no stock sleeves, torque to factory spec and call it a day.

Ok thanks guys. Lots of good info here. I'd love to put a larger bolt in but I'm worried I might fawk it up. That sleeve didn't want to fit through the hole in the subframe. Maybe I wasn't convincing enough.

I think I'll just get the TT R32 bushing and call it a day.

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Josh Wimpey
You should definitely run the type shown in the lower photo and not the top photo as they will only last a few events before they are worn the F out.

Nonsense.

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Self-righteous douche canoe

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hoche

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Josh Wimpey
You should definitely run the type shown in the lower photo and not the top photo as they will only last a few events before they are worn the F out.

Nonsense.

Double nonsense. And shame. Those things with the voids don't even hold up to 30 minutes worth of rallycross in the grass. I tore at least half a dozen between 1998 and 2004 when the R32 stuff became available.

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

I also used a lock washer on each bolt.

Never had them loosen up again! (Previously, we had to check them at EVERY service.)

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Dante
I also used a lock washer on each bolt.

Never had them loosen up again! (Previously, we had to check them at EVERY service.)

That's a good idea, thanks!

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Josh Wimpey
Double nonsense. And shame. Those things with the voids don't even hold up to 30 minutes worth of rallycross in the grass. I tore at least half a dozen between 1998 and 2004 when the R32 stuff became available.

You weren't installing them correctly then, or were using poor quality ones. They go in in very specific orientation.

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Self-righteous douche canoe

Quote
hoche

Quote
Josh Wimpey
Double nonsense. And shame. Those things with the voids don't even hold up to 30 minutes worth of rallycross in the grass. I tore at least half a dozen between 1998 and 2004 when the R32 stuff became available.

You weren't installing them correctly then, or were using poor quality ones. They go in in very specific orientation.

I was using bushings from my local VW dealership. Always clocked correctly (big kidney outboard with slight angle)

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____________________________________________________________-

One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

Quote
Josh Wimpey

Quote
hoche

Quote
Josh Wimpey
Double nonsense. And shame. Those things with the voids don't even hold up to 30 minutes worth of rallycross in the grass. I tore at least half a dozen between 1998 and 2004 when the R32 stuff became available.

You weren't installing them correctly then, or were using poor quality ones. They go in in very specific orientation.

I was using bushings from my local VW dealership. Always clocked correctly (big kidney outboard with slight angle)

They died with great frequency on the street too, regular service items.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.