Datsun S30 Suspension

I have been doing a bunch of reading the past month or so but have not found any good info regarding suspension setup for the Datsun S30 (240/260z). Was curious if anyone here has experience with the chassis and could offer some input. Thanks so much.

Try to get a hold of Greg Healey. He is NY I think and rallies a 240Z.

I'm not sure if he is a member here but you could try him on FB.

If you search on here you should be able to find links to the old Escort prep manual which is probably a good resource. I think there might be an RX7 one floating around also. And talk to Greg.

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Grant Hughes

S30s are struts front and rear and really short wheelbase. And as I remember, the chassis is a noodle, so all kinds of reinforcement would be a good idea.

Nissan got away with a minimalist chassis because the rear suspension was entirely mounted to the center "spine" of the car, like a Lotus. That's how they got the car so light despite that boat anchor of an engine, there's hardly any metal in the shell because all the loads go through the trans tunnel, not the sills.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2018 12:51PM by Pete.

Thanks guys.

I am aware of the chassis rigidity issues which will be addressed during roll cage fabrication. The stock motors are really heavy/long but we have a VQ35HR that is going in. Significantly lighter and sits even with or behind the front wheel centerline.

No luck finding a contact for Greg yet but will keep searching.

I always thought an engine like the SR20 would be perfect for a Z. A lot lighter, about the same power, and you could walk right into the engine bay and work on it instead of leaning over a fender...

Of course I also thought the RB20DE would be a good idea because DOHC 2-liter six like the Z432.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

The SR is a great engine and I have plenty of experience with them. It is however aging and I wanted to stay away from forced induction this time around. The VQ engines are easy to find and pricing is right. The very complete exampled I have was $1800 with the CD009 trans.

I was able to find Gregs contact info and shot him an email. Still open to any additional suspension related recommendations while I wait for a response.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2018 06:12PM by noclassic.

A VQ would sound absolutely glorious singing away through the woods. I like where this is going.

OK got your email..Let's jump right in.
Is THIS your rear suspension?


And, is this your front?



If so one thing is clear: there's room for coilovers..
And another thing is clear: these particular style of old school stuff is a pain in the ass of the highest order because the tubes are part of the spindle both front and rear...making for more work and expense..
A major problem with all these old style assemblies is the wall thickness and material of the original tubes..They're junk steel and thin wall. That's for any use other than cruising to the store for a pack of ciggies.
It seems a smart thing might be to simply finger out a way to do what Nissan did themselves and go to a later knuckle with normal strut bmounting like these 240SX knuckles in front


In the rear, ...Hmmmm how to make the things separable...If that upright is steel then there's som great possibilities..
Is it STEEL

Turn it over and see if the tube is welded in.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Yes those appear to be the correct diagrams of the S30 suspension.

The S13 uses a rear mount rack with the S30 being front. The rack would need to be relocated or the knuckles modified. I will do some more digging to see there are any other late model flanged style mount knuckles that may work.

Any thoughts on something like this for the front and rear?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119399-240z-camber-adj-rear-coilover-adapters-bolt-on/

Can the existing knuckles not have the sleeve removed and a stronger thick wall tube added? What other specific shortcomings besides lack or camber adjustment have you found with the sleeve style mounting method?

Quote
noclassic
Yes those appear to be the correct diagrams of the S30 suspension.

The S13 uses a rear mount rack with the S30 being front. The rack would need to be relocated or the knuckles modified. I will do some more digging to see there are any other late model flanged style mount knuckles that may work.

Any thoughts on something like this for the front and rear?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119399-240z-camber-adj-rear-coilover-adapters-bolt-on/

Can the existing knuckles not have the sleeve removed and a stronger thick wall tube added? What other specific shortcomings besides lack or camber adjustment have you found with the sleeve style mounting method?

As far as I can ascertain and from people in the suspension biz elsewhere I invented this idea like 15 years ago...It worked but if there was a wheel to strut nearness issue by being on center it stayed on center so it didn't change tire to strut body problems...




In addition I was losing money making the things

A friend who is a CNC Mill whiz came up with this idea


And we did some...got the offset but too expensive in the machining and he didn't want to make more---and didn't make any extras so no spares..That is always a bad idea..So far however the have worked marvelously..



So I came up with an even simpler idea


So I came up with a simpler idea, less machining...and settled on it


Did a whole shit-ton of Volvo, Toyota Corolla, even some old school BMWs.
I did them to Subaru width and bolt spacing since i was making so many Subaru sets--scores!

Something like that could be done maybe and I have a sketch how it could be done on the rear upright to maintain OEM position>

The whole point of all these is so a guy can have 1 spare that will be usable on BOTH sides of the car> Welding a nice thick wall DOM CrMo tube into the original place means the strut/knuckle assembly is fixed and is handed and that means 2 spares to cover the need.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Is the final example something that you currently have available?

Quote
noclassic
Is the final example something that you currently have available?

I have to go look...

The rears would have to be fabbed from scratch and these days I do not have the same access to machines i had for years..so thinking cap ON

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks! Looking forward to what you find.

I also do not currently have free access to machining equipment. Could we have a set CNC plasma cut from thick plate? Likely the most cost effective method given their relative lack of complexity.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/02/2018 12:33PM by noclassic.

I found a duplicate set of knuckles here locally. Would it help if I shipped those to you?