NA volvo motor recipe?

Wondering if there is a realistic plan for a 175-200hp volvo non-turbo b230.

I have an old K-cam and thats about it. Anyone have any experience here? (Penta crank anyone?)

-Al

alkun Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Wondering if there is a realistic plan for a
> 175-200hp volvo non-turbo b230.
>
> I have an old K-cam and thats about it. Anyone
> have any experience here? (Penta crank anyone?)
>
> -Al

Get some bigger valves, minimum 38mm exhaust and maybe 46mm intake.
Get the compression up to at least a NOMINAL 11.5:1
Then think about cams made for rally, not some emissions cam.
It is the SHAPE of the cam not merely the timing and the lift that determines the cams performance.
Get hold of me for these parts.

Forget the Penta crank.
You'll never make more than approx 175 bhp with the stock intake manifold, so rather than thinking about cranks---which mandate pistons too, think about THROTTLE BODIES.

If you want a reliable motor to really beat on, then you oughtter have rods and pistons in forged materials intended for abuse.
But you need to talk about what your budget is, no point in typing if you don't have any money to spend on this, or don't want to spend anything.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Well.. having played with a few Volvo slug slingers myself I'd ask the question (not to be critical) why don't you want to go the turbo route?

Do you want 175 WHP or BHP?

If you get that much hp to the wheels your torque ratings will be suffering compared to a turbo motor.

There is a wide availabilty of Turbo parts and cars laying around in boneyards.

I promise you I can build a more torquey motor that will get you out of corners faster with more room for improvement with a turbo for less money than you'll spend trying to make a N/A B230.

I'm not trying to talk you out of doing a N/A car.. just simply trying to see where you stand.

I've been down this road and it took me a good bit of elbow grease (swapping parts) to get 200whp on a turbo motor. But! the bottom ends are plenty stout enough to hold this type of power reliably so it eliminates the need of building an espensive "forged" bulletproof bottom end that breaks your budget for important things like drivetrain and suspension that'll keep your car on the road and out of the ditch.

---

Stroker 2.5 redblock, JE forged blower pistons 8.2:1, Eagle H beams with DSM big end, Avalanche underdrive pulley, 46/40mm valve 530 with Enem C2 turbo cam, Isky db springs, SDS efi w/DIS/wasted spark, PCS digital touch screen dash/logger, 60lb Deka IV's, ATP 60-1 @ 22psi, Tial bov, Walbro 255, Avalanche T-5 adapter, 02 Tremec 5sp, 6puck, 3" driveshaft, modded G80, Painless chassis harness. Corbeau seats.. 300+whp Driven daily..

Yeah, I'll fess up. I'm a cheapskate.

My priorities are to build a tough car that I can learn and have fun in, not to win any particular class. There are plenty of other areas that need money, but I need some power. At this point I might be able to scrape together a kilo$ to throw at an engine. I have a rebuilt stock B230 sitting in the shed, as well as a tubular header. A nice head sound like the place to start.

My other thinking was to grab one of the 240 turbo wagons from some nice old lady that comes up for sale often around the bay area here. I have been told a turbo engine will be cheaper in the long run, but it seem like more stuff to go wrong.

Thanks for the help,
-Al

Yeah, just go for a turbo motor, unless you plan on running all RA events, in which case you are kinda boned for G5 as a beginner.

If you go G2, go crazy and put in a Kent motor -- only $10k (a few years ago, when the dollar was better valued). Out da box.

Turbo cars come with their own fun, though. When you get to the point of really putting power to the wheels, then you start dealing with breaking stuff down the driveline. First it's the driveshaft. When that's remedied, then it's the gearbox. Fix that, then it's half-shafts. High HP/torque NA motors will have you snapping this stuff even faster (especially half shafts), then you'll wonder why you didn't put in the Sellholm floating hub versions years ago.

I went bone stock B230 and gnarly FI system and I still break stuff.

Big thing is get the car out on the stages. You can always improve it down the road.

...Brian...

Hey Vince -- you got too many damn doors on that thing!

very interesting....

Brian, just curious, what constitutes a gnarly FI system ? Mega squirter? double injectors? airplane parts?

Thanks for the info.
-Al

Gnarly FI means it was a reprogrammed LH 2.3 built at the Volvo factory by the race team and utilizes a factory-built prototype harness. Pretty easily made to be universal to any B2xxT motor.

If you want the old horse to go faster, go to the horse's barn and ask for it. I just happened to have a friend in the right place at the right time.

I shot you a PM. Feel free to respond. Cheers.

...Brian...

Found this browsing around last night a little more extreme than what you probably want but cool to look at. I just got a 531 head the other it might stay NA for awhile but the torque from the turbo is so nice.

http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/fyrtaktsid7.html#topp