Rewrapping an alternator?

Hey guys,

I have a 90amp alt on my mk2 GTI and I'm considering new lights that might put me over its limits. I run an electric power steering pump from an XT6 so that's a current hog. I've heard through the internet that its possible to "rewrap" an alternator to boost its current output. Anyone ever have that done? There doesn't seem to be an *easy* way to get a larger alt on a 16v GTI without resorting to some machining. If this rewrapping is legit, it might be a painless way to gaurantee some margin.


just getting some feelers out there...
-e



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2008 08:43PM by Eddie Fiorelli.

I run a 90 amp on the bunny with no issues...4 100watt H1's, two 80 watt H4 high beams and two 55 watt H4 low beam(on at the same time the high beams are on)

670 Watts at approximately 12 V is 55.8ish amps
670 Watts at approxiamtely 14.4V is 46.5ish amps

so we are using up about 47-56 amps on lights....it is a noticeable draw, but the alternator does ok with it...haven't had a failure yet, But I do have a spare in the service tubs.

How many amps does the pump draw at full draw? I don't trust a re-wrapped alternator for longevity, it might work for a while, but they die hard and fast.

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2008 09:12PM by Tom B.

From the what I can tell online the PS pump draws about 10-15amps under static loading and up to 40 amps instantaneously under steering input. I haven't measured the current myself and that 40amp spike thingy is hard to quantify.

I'm currently running 4 100W H1s as my auxillary lights and I picked up a nifty single round kit so I'm trying to sort out my lights. I'm debating between 55/60 (low/high beam) or 55/100W bulbs.

I haven't actually run this car with its lights yet on a night stage since I picked it up so I don't even know if the current bulb setup can handle a stage.

Time for the redneck/ebay HID setup? Don't HIDs draw less once the ballast kicks the lights on?

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Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Personally I would run the 90amp and do some hard testing with the steering, see what your charging system does....I gotta imagine that the battery would still be getting charged even with a 20-25amp nominal draw and the occasional 30-40 amp spike....but you are reaching the limits...testing should confirm or deny it.

Any of the 120amp VW alternators will require a custom pulley or a serpentine setup with some machine work to be done...

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

I'd put that PS pump on a big ol' sloblo fuse, too.

Get it serviced regularly. Chris Whiteman had one in his VW and it drew WAAAY less amps after a fresh rebuild by the local starter shop.

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Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

One thing that will help limit the instantaneous PS pump current loads from the alternator is to run a large gage wire (like a number 8 or 6) direct from the battery to the PS pump. And for that level of peak current draw (40A?) you might be better off with a circuit breaker, like sometimes used on trailer wiring.

Regards,
Mark B.

Lurch Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'd put that PS pump on a big ol' sloblo fuse,
> too.


Slobo?
German Army slang from WWII for "Russians"?
Comes from "Sloboda", Rus for "freedom".

Why put Russian fuses in the car.

And I thought you's was from Michoacan.
>
> Get it serviced regularly. Chris Whiteman had one
> in his VW and it drew WAAAY less amps after a
> fresh rebuild by the local starter shop.
>
> Lurch
> Eric Burmeister
> Greatlakesknowitallatlarge
> Dee-troit
> Still work at Ford...for now...check back
> tomorrow.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

slobLo as in "slow blow" as in "doesn't fry with an instantaneous spike, but with a bit of sustained amperage." I use one on my gearbox pump.

Hey, I talked to Timmy Taylor last night about schockers and damping rates and junk. I'll give you a call tonight, yo. If I remember.

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Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

Lurch Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> slobLo as in "slow blow" as in "doesn't fry with
> an instantaneous spike, but with a bit of
> sustained amperage." I use one on my gearbox
> pump.
>
> Hey, I talked to Timmy Taylor last night about
> schockers and damping rates and junk. I'll give
> you a call tonight, yo. If I remember.

You vill tonight mich telephonerien, verstäts?
>
> Lurch
> Eric Burmeister
> Greatlakesknowitallatlarge
> Dee-troit
> Still work at Ford...for now...check back
> tomorrow.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2008 12:36PM by john vanlandingham.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
> You vill tonight mich telephonerien, verstäts?

yeahwhatever.

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Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

yeah, the pump is real fresh. I kept blowing fuses so I replaced the innards. I currently have it hooked up through a mucho amp relay with a 40 amp fuse in line. Not a slow blow but I haven't had trouble with it taking out fuses. But as the brushes degrade it could, so good advice there on the fuse. I'll be taking the pump out and doing an occasional bath with contact cleaner. Its real easy to take apart.

If I ever get the time I'm contemplating going back to a stock VW PS pump. Sure its not in a great spot but the electric pump is quite a hassle. Plus, long term reliability seems to be an unknown.

-e

bah don't give up, I LOVE the idea of an electric pump for a few reasons....hell even the belt driven pumps can fail despite their location, grow your pipes

Ideally if you end up going back to the factory pump, toss that thing way up behind the head or rig it in the factory AC spot so there are no worries about smashing the hell out of it with large immovable objects

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

You could upgrade you alternator as well.

I believe some mid 90's Saturns came stock with 200 amp alts (if you're willing to scour Google and the pick-n-pull), or there are plenty of vendors willing to sell you new ones, http://www.alternatorparts.com/, came up in a quick search and painless wiring offers pigtails with quick disconnects to simplify wiring.

Cheers, Ted

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Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

Ted Andkilde Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You could upgrade you alternator as well.
>
> I believe some mid 90's Saturns came stock with
> 200 amp alts (if you're willing to scour Google
> and the pick-n-pull), or there are plenty of
> vendors willing to sell you new ones, , came up in
> a quick search and painless wiring offers pigtails
> with quick disconnects to simplify wiring.
>
> Cheers, Ted
>
> Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly
> creative man -- Sir Alec


Why did mid 90s Saturns need 200 Amp alternators???

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Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish