inherited a set of JVAB suspenders...

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ugh, Dave, that story sucks...
>
>
> I definitley got a good deal on these, AND I know
> check-point racing has a bunch of spare parts for
> sale on their site, and it seems a lot of rally
> folks are selling theirs to upgrade, so for a
> 'beginner' set up, they're still pretty good and
> there seems to be enough used ones around that I
> can bend one or two and still have extra parts
> available w/o too much effort.
>
>

Don't get me wrong, they work really well and if you got them used for cheap it's a good way to go. Especially since if you bend or blow an insert all you gotta do is call up JVAB and and he can set you up with some nice Bilstein 50mm inserts that will go right into the DMS housings! Also, don't pay DMS $200 or whatever per strut for new bushing kits. You can buy the same exact bushings from the source for about $15 each.

awesome, thanks!

"You can buy the same exact bushings from the source for about $15 each."

what source? Got a link? Or can I get those from JVL too?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

bump for JVL.....any ideas on those gussets?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> bump for JVL.....any ideas on those gussets?
>
>

Did you read my third post above?

Doivi Clarkinen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jon Burke Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > bump for JVL.....any ideas on those gussets?
> >
> >
>
> Did you read my third post above?

yeah, not sure what you mean. I was referring to the gussets to re-enforce the mounting ears. If I break/crack something, yeah, I'll just get the bilsteins from jon.....but nothing's getting rebuilt yet.

John said he's look into a design for the gusset, although, I'll probably just end up taking measurements when I get them in a few weeks and see if Tim Taylor can cut up some steel for me. I want to weld something.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> yeah, not sure what you mean. I was referring to
> the gussets to re-enforce the mounting ears. If I
> break/crack something, yeah, I'll just get the
> bilsteins from jon.....but nothing's getting
> rebuilt yet.
>
> John said he's look into a design for the gusset,
> although, I'll probably just end up taking
> measurements when I get them in a few weeks and
> see if Tim Taylor can cut up some steel for me. I
> want to weld something.
>

What part of "I have a template" was unclear? I've repaired and welded dozens of sets of DMS struts with bent and cracked mounting ears, I used to be the DMS distributor. I explained above what you need to do to repair/reinforce them and why. I can probably post up some pics but it won't happen until this weekend.

Doivi Clarkinen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> >
>
> What part of "I have a template" was unclear?
> I've repaired and welded dozens of sets of DMS
> struts with bent and cracked mounting ears, I used
> to be the DMS distributor. I explained above what
> you need to do to repair/reinforce them and why.
> I can probably post up some pics but it won't
> happen until this weekend.


ummm....yeah. duh...sorry, was looking at the wrong post. Yeah, any pics either posted or feel free to email them directly, whatever works for you, THANKS Dave, appreciate it.

burkejon at yahoo dot com



so JLV....you have a sub-a-rat top mount reinforcement, yes? PM price, whatever....hoping to get this little project done by August. Thanks, y'all.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

so hey, I got these DMS 50mm springy things on my car finally. they guy I bought them from did me a favor and gussetted the rears for me already, so i'm just going ot wait on doing the fronts until I absolutely need to next year.


but I have a question on adjusting them. Bump is easy....end of the little adjuster nub....20 clicks clockwise is stiff, 20 clicks counterclockwise is soft.

but the inner 'rebound' thing (with the red paint) doesn't stop turning when you get to the most soft or most stiff setting....so how do you know what actual number (0-3) you're on?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

I dunno, but be careful. Many many years ago I was crewing for Neil Bliss and one of the crewguys (wasn't me!) unscrewed the adjuster screw on his DMS's too far and it fell out. At the second service of Gorman, yow.

I think that set is sitting in Mike Warfield's shop (so no worries Eli), but it's something to think about!

---

Self-righteous douche canoe

hoche Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I dunno, but be careful. Many many years ago I was
> crewing for Neil Bliss and one of the crewguys
> (wasn't me!) unscrewed the adjuster screw on his
> DMS's too far and it fell out. At the second
> service of Gorman, yow.
>
> I think that set is sitting in Mike Warfield's
> shop (so no worries Eli), but it's something to
> think about!

yeah, tiny little nubber for such a big set of suspenders, not really sure I get the engineering behind that.

interesting to drive on, right now I have the fronts at about halfway between full stiff and soft, and the rears about 5 clicks down from full stiff. Feels nice on corners (street), with a little bit of oversteer, but still a bit bumpy....so I *think* I have the rebound on full stiff (little red paint mark pointing at the '3' full-stiff mark), but I could be wrong.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
.
>
> but the inner 'rebound' thing (with the red paint)
> doesn't stop turning when you get to the most soft
> or most stiff setting....so how do you know what
> actual number (0-3) you're on?
>
> Jon Burke - KI6LSW
>

The rebound should be turned in the clockwise direction only. There are 4 positions. It goes 0,1,2,3 and then back to 0. Turning it backwards won't damage anything but the holes that control the valving may not line up exactly right. Always turn clockwise. When setting bump turn the adjuster clockwise until it bottoms (do not over tighten or you will break off the adjuster!) That is full hard. Back off however many clicks you want to set it at. Full soft is at 20 clicks back from full hard. You will probably be able to get more than 20 clicks before the adjuster stops but that does not give you more adjustment. THe door is already wide open at 20 clicks, so to speak. If you were to unscrew the bump adjuster knob all the way out (that is, remove it) and then unscrew the needle that it is actually turning to far then it will come shooting out with a blast of oil and pressurized nitrogen! Don't do that.

^^ Dave, thanks for typing that up twice, I saw your post on SS.com too.

I'm sure at some point I'll have a thread on how to pull these things apart and rebuild them, I'll look for your guidance.

In the meantime, feel free to throw out any potential setting combinations a sub-a-rat owner might like.

I'm coming off some blistein pss9's which, although designed for the street, I had some custom Swift springs (longer and softer), that did great on both daily driving and some rallyX/off road stuff.

now I'm in a whole new class and have about 10 months to figure these things out.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/