Engine pulling and Camshaft spec

Morten,

It's best to have an experienced friend look at it in your own garage. Then if you need any shop work done take it in later, after you find out what went wrong.

If you take it to a shop for tear-down and inspection, your inviting a BIG REPAIR Bill. The guys in the shop need to earn a living too.

Rich Smith

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm also learning that fine thread metric bolts
> are very difficult to find, I think the pitch on
> the ones that bolt the motor to the bell housing
> are 10 X 1.25 (if memory serves me correctly), so
> I couldn't bolt the motor to the stand with the
> absence of the bolts that I can't find in
> Vancouver.

They even have those in stock at Home Depot. Or just order from McMaster Carr, and have them there in 1 day.

> Is there anything specifically that you would like
> pictures of ?

Jens has PM'd me asking me to request a picture of your ass

"They even have those in stock at Home Depot. Or just order from McMaster Carr, and have them there in 1 day."

I tried 3 auto parts places (Lordco, Napa, Vancouver Auto Parts), Acklands, Fastnals, Home Depot, then called Fuller Metric (seems they only sell through auto parts places now and no one carries fine thread metric on the shelf, special order only and then I have to take a box), then found a place called Cascade Distributing close to Vancouver, and they're bringing them in from their Vancouver Island location.

In my search I found that the right thread length and thread bolt can also be had from a Honda S2000 steering component, but also a non stock dealer item.

Who would have thought that it would take so much time to find bolts to bolt my motor to a bloody stand !

"Jens has PM'd me asking me to request a picture of your ass", I'm sure you mis- understood the email and he was just calling you an ass !

Make a list of the bolts you need I'll go get them for you from ACE hardware

I seriously think it would be extremely premature to think about machining at this point. Let's first find out what fucked up. You are right the arch thingies with the two bolt holes that house half of the bearings are called CAPS.

As first step, get the damn balance shaft elimination kit. Look at eBay, I'm dead serious. Today I found rear wheel bearing for a 1964 Corvair for a disturbed Corvair owner on eBay.

Do you seriously think you need an Accusump ? I doubt it, take it off put it on eBay and fund some of your rebuild expenses with it. There are plenty of dumbasses turning left only that would jump at it.

JVL, do you know whether the bearings were 10 over 20 over or anything over at all ?

Morty, on eBay look for a seller called Parts Dinosaur, he is the nicest guy to but parts from, very reasonable prices too. His phone number is on each item he has on auction. Tell him I said Hi, he will treat you like royalty. He has a short fuse though, first get a list of what you need.

He may even have a complete oil pump, balance shaft elimination kit, I know he has the bearings.

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

PAddy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jens has PM'd me...

BS!

The only person I have PM'd on this cluster-copulation site is Morten.





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2006 11:24PM by Jens.

Thanks Mustafa !

I'll start looking.

So I should remove the rest of the caps, pull the pistons, and dismantle the oil pump ?

In doing so, which areas do you want pics of ?

I vaguely remember from Grade 9 shop class that as I remove the pistons, I screw the matching cap (not sure if these are called caps too, that sandwich the rod around the crank) back together and keep them seperated. Am I remembering correctly ?

Leave the pistons alone right now.

Take a marker and number each cap, the orientation of the cap matters too. I tend to mark each bolt too, but again it's me.

Take pictures of each bearing you pulled, and what number cap they are from, a pic of the crank would be good too. The oil pump should come out as one piece, I think. To be on the safe side I would replace it regardless of it's condition. Same thing goes for the water pump.

Once you are done with those we will look at the pistons and cylinders one at a time. You know what they are don't you ? And I am not being sarcastic. Pistons are the ones connected to the crank via the connecting rods (con-rods) and the cylinder is the thingy the piston goes up and down in.

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

I've already got the oil pump out, and you're right it did come out in 1 piece with the timing chain hydrolic tensioner and balance shaft attached. I had planned on replacing it and the water pump, but wanted to find out if taking the oil pump apart if it was possible to see a reason for the failure if it occured there.

Lucky for me, the caps are numbered and have pretty arrows on them pointing in the pulley direction of the crank.

Thanks for the tip of keeping the bolts in the proper holes. We did this with the rocker arms and head as well, just un did them, left them in the holes and lifted away.

Just so I have this right :

Remove the caps - Take pics of the crank

Post pics

Remove the "caps" on one rod at a time (is it possible to push the puston out from the bottom ? Should I lube the cylinder with oil or greast before pushing it out ?)

Post pics from each piston / cylinder

Then remove crank and post pics.

Did you mean that I should take all the pistons / rods out at once and just lable them or take them out one aat a time as I mentioned above ?

Morten

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "
>
> Who would have thought that it would take so much
> time to find bolts to bolt my motor to a bloody
> stand !
You didn't notice an email at some point complaining about the same thing when I had you engine here but it took me several hours to find the bolts as well.

Didn't bill you for the time but I wasn't working for ME so I must have been working for you.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> but wanted to find out if taking the
> oil pump apart if it was possible to see a reason
> for the failure if it occured there.

Academic but go for it worse case scenario you will have an idea how things work. Did you not tell us that the balance shaft attached to the oil pump had a lot of play ?


>
> Just so I have this right :
>
> Remove the caps - Take pics of the crank
>
> Post pics

Correct

> Remove the "caps" on one rod at a time (is it
> possible to push the puston out from the bottom ?

Yes but if you have a broken ring you may scratch the cylinder.


> Should I lube the cylinder with oil or greast
> before pushing it out ?)


Sure it won't hurt anything, oil not grease.


> Post pics from each piston / cylinder

Yes


> Then remove crank and post pics.


Not "Then" BEFORE.


> Did you mean that I should take all the pistons /
> rods out at once and just lable them or take them
> out one aat a time as I mentioned above ?
>


When you remove the caps and the main, you will be able to lift the crank out of the block. Leave the pistons and the con-rods in the block for the time being.

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

"Academic but go for it worse case scenario you will have an idea how things work. Did you not tell us that the balance shaft attached to the oil pump had a lot of play ?"

It was the upper balance shaft (no oil pump) that had the freeplay.

I checked the "Parts Dinosaurs" website and he has no parts listed for the G54B. But I'll call him tomorrow, and see if they're just not listed on the site.

I honestly don't remember John.

Until last summer I didn't have an appreciation for bolts, different thread pitches, SAE, metric, fine thread, etc.

It was only when I started looking for the fine thread SAE bolts for the light bar that I started to appreciate the difficulty in searching for what fit.

Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I honestly don't remember John.
>
> Until last summer I didn't have an appreciation
> for bolts, different thread pitches, SAE, metric,
> fine thread, etc.
>
> It was only when I started looking for the fine
> thread SAE bolts for the light bar that I started
> to appreciate the difficulty in searching for what
> fit.
Well it took time cause all those hundreds of pounds of sorted, sized, clean bolts I have here are all either Swedish inch bolts for Saab V4 cars where the CAR and tranny is all inch, unually UNC (Unified National Corse) and the engine nornal DIN Metric, and the rest DIN Metric for 900 Saabs and the Xratties.

See once you get to 10mm the Japanese start amking up whatever pitcj they have a yen for and 10 x 1.25 covers the NORMAL, what the wqhole fuckin rest of the world can somehow get by with for 90% of things M10 x 1.5 and for like flywheels and front pulley or whatever, M10 x 1.0, they use this weird in between.

Same at 12mm.
Then their fastener quality, especially OEM 70s vintage shit is questionable.
At best.
Downright shitty quite often.

By the way, the rods are Original.
Bearing size, can't recall, look on the back of the bearings, should be marked 0,25 or something.

What the fuck is the delay of 2 days to pull the last two main caps, pulling all 5 should have taken maybe 6-8 minutes.

What did the other holes look like?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

"What the fuck is the delay of 2 days to pull the last two main caps, pulling all 5 should have taken maybe 6-8 minutes."

Delay, as in the congressman ? I got to the 3rd one that was and is stuck, that was on Wednesday night. Didn't work on it on Thursday. But tomorrow, I'll end the suspense and post some pics for you and everyone else.

"What did the other holes lo like?"

I'll post them, when I get further ahead.

"By the way, the rods are Original."

G54B everything except the crank which is G52B, right ?

G54B

98.0 Stroke X 91.0 Bore

G52B

90.0 Stroke X 84.0 Bore

So the stroke on the crank is 8mm less than the stock G54B crank and the rods are original [presumably G54B]. Would that not make the compression low, or am I missing something ?

edit : I may have posted prematurely because from what I can tell is that the G54B had a 12 valve head, and mine has the 8 valve. I can't find very much info on the G54, did it have an 8 valve head and was the bore and stroke the same as the G54B ?

Mental note to self, source and buy 2.6L manual



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2006 05:16AM by Morten.