Golf II/III Motor Mounts and axles

So if you are making the rear mount a torque control arm only not keep using the subframe. It will only add one bolt to the process of changing the subframe since the motor would be controlled in an up and down fashion by the side mounts.

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
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> Doesnt the crossmember on the golf locate the
> front A arms? Do they not bolt onto the ends?
>

Uh. Yeah. Good point. I suck. Nevermind.

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Self-righteous douche canoe

This is the best shot that I have of an ex-works mk3 with a similar setup.

I like the tubes that go down to the rear mounts for the crossmember.

hahaha sorry. Just thought I'd ask....

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Tom here's some pics of my work on replacing the captured nuts. I ended up doing all 6 subframe bolts, but really the back 2 arn't needed.

Drilled out and test fitting the tubing:




Top plate where it comes through the frame:




Welded in bottom plate and rod:





Found these pics of a mockup on some golf over in europe

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-Jason

Noah Third did the same sorta mounting on this golf and it worked out well.

I had all custome mounts on my golf but to the sub frame and broke drive shafts in every way possible typically when going forward in a straight line.

I highly recomend a mount off the diff to something to deal with the rotational loads that the front mount does such a poor job of dealing with.

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In the long run reality always wins.

awesome pictures guys, I will be stealing ideas well this way. I'm thinking of some kind of stay rod or heim type thing off of the rear of the diff, probably using a rabbit bracket....may have to go to the subframe with it but, I figure one mount would be better than two.

Derek did you run a factory mount up front or use a solid unit or something else?

I just snagged one of these for up front (used for about half of retail:

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-Tom
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Tom I used to use a solid mount in the front but I went away from it. If the rear mounts aren't solid as well, the engine will still TRY and flex, and all that stress gois right into the front engine mount bracket (the part that goes on the end of the starter motor bolts). I broke probably 5 of those before I got smart and removed the solid front. Then that problem went away.

So either make the rear mounts solid too, or stick with rubber mounts. I bought some fancy mounts from the UK that ended up solving the problem but keeping everything slightly flexible:

It was about $600 for the set:

Front:



Rear-trans:



Rear-engine:

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http://www.ckrally.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/19/2008 05:45PM by cblakely.

... and reading back a ways I've realized it's your intention not to stick with crappy stock engine mount designs

so yeah you may not have the same issues. especially if you can bracket the diff too.

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http://www.ckrally.com

Heres another one from that clubgti page linked in the vw porn thread

I used the pre 1986 front mount stock, the rest of the mounts were slightly modified stock mounts except the rear dif mount that was custom.

I wrote somewhere about how I worked out the hubs for the driveline big axle kit right?

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In the long run reality always wins.

What do most of you guys run for MK2 engine mounts using OEM locations anyway? Just poly filled stock mounts, or do you go with some crazy custom mounts?

derek Wrote:
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>
> I wrote somewhere about how I worked out the hubs
> for the driveline big axle kit right?
>

I think I heard something about you snagging some raxles or drive shaft shop units, but I thought you still had problems with those?

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

billy the stuff I posted further up the thread is what I'm using, for stock mk2 mount locations.

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http://www.ckrally.com

Tom B Wrote:
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> derek Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > I wrote somewhere about how I worked out the
> hubs
> > for the driveline big axle kit right?
> >
>
> I think I heard something about you snagging some
> raxles or drive shaft shop units, but I thought
> you still had problems with those?
>
>
Right I used drive shaft .com bits but sent them stock hubs and had them spline them for the larger CV they use. I had to grind down the nut and get local washers on the axle nut to fit in the stock hub but once all that was done I had a system that worked with out problem. Driveshaftshop was happy to run the spline tool on my stock hubs, I sent them to them pre bored to the ID they asked for.

I was using Corrado uprights and hubs they might have a larger wheel bearing I can not remember. I changed wheel bearings often on both ends of the car.

Derek

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In the long run reality always wins.