Construction Zone
Don\
Welcome! Log In Register

Advanced

Paint, clutch cable, and electrical

Posted by Morten 
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 26, 2006 01:09AM
Since I've got the motor out... I'm going to clean up all the electrical spaghetti that has gathered under the hood though the years of multiple ownerships. I've gotton rid of a lot of what was redundant.

For the rest I'm thinking of bolting a electrical block to either side of the firewall (just above the firewall penetrations used for wiring routes.

What type of electrical block is recommended ?

What do you use for paint in the engine compartment ?

My light bar has 4 older Bosch 8" driving lights. Currently each light is wired with a male to female crimp. Each light has a dedicated ground and the outers are wired separately from the pencil lights. So that's 8 connectors with exposed connections.

What type of plugs are recommended for this application of removable lights to car ?

The clutch cable rubs on a steering "knuckle" (I'll post pics), it's the routing and how it worked out with the Saab rack that is in the car. Since I've had the car, I've been slicing fuel hose and "armouring" the clutch cable in the area of the knuckles. But the fuel hose wears out and I'm looking for a more permanent solution.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2006 01:09AM by Morten.
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 07:04PM
Here's the pics of the clutch rubbing on the "knuckle".

I'm stuck with the location of the steering and rack, as well as the location of the cable... but does anyone have a suggestion as to how I can better protect the clutch cable ?

Please Login or Register to post a reply
Attachments:
open | download - SaabRack.jpg (71 KB)
SaabRack.jpg
open | download - Cable-knuckle.jpg (72.6 KB)
Cable-knuckle.jpg
open | download - knuckle-cable-expandedview.jpg (88.3 KB)
knuckle-cable-expandedview.jpg
sagsert
Mustafa Samli
Infallible Moderator
Location: Arizona
Join Date: 01/10/2006
Age: Ancient
Posts: 824

Rally Car:
Gaylant VR4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 07:42PM
Is it kinking ??? NO

Is it causing a malfunction ??? NO

Does it have a potential to cause problems inspite of routine check ??? NO

Is your main concern cosmetic ??? YES

Leave the poor fucker alone and keep an eye on it when you service.

Remember the K.I.S.S. rule.

Like Confucius says, "If it ain't broke don't fix it".



Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 07:53PM
I was approaching this from more of a preventative perspective.

Kind of like how some people like to put "superior" clamps on their turbo's. smiling smiley

So Mustafa... what do you use for paint under the hood/bonnet (see motor/engine thread), and is it available in a spray can ?

The motor is apart, and the only thing holding me up now are the specs of a camshaft so I can order one. Is one of you guru's able to point me in the direction of someone who can spec something for my motor ?
Please Login or Register to post a reply
sagsert
Mustafa Samli
Infallible Moderator
Location: Arizona
Join Date: 01/10/2006
Age: Ancient
Posts: 824

Rally Car:
Gaylant VR4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 09:09PM
Yes it is available at your friendly Autozone for like $4.79 / can.

I use the engine block paint that is rated for 500 degrees. It is easy to apply, very quick to dry and doesn't change colour with heat or spillage.





Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 09:45PM
Thanks !

I had left earlier to go to Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire), and while there... stood and stared at the "wall o spray paint". I went for the high heat stuff too, the $3 more per can seemed like $$$ well spent.

Hey JVL, my pistons are zero decked right ? Just like the motor you built for Roger Jackman back in 2002 ? Can you recollect what he ended up running for a cam in his hybrid ?

Thanks !
Please Login or Register to post a reply
sagsert
Mustafa Samli
Infallible Moderator
Location: Arizona
Join Date: 01/10/2006
Age: Ancient
Posts: 824

Rally Car:
Gaylant VR4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 11:31PM
Morty,

Why are you so obsessed with the cam bro ?

Is it fucked up or something or are you playing from the seat of your pants ?

This is not a sarcastic question, I am being serious as a train wreck.

If there is nothing wrong with the cam leave the poor fucker alone. If you need somewhere to spend money on I will find you something else.



Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 27, 2006 11:54PM
"If there is nothing wrong with the cam leave the poor fucker alone."

It was something JVL and I had initially talked about when he was building the engine for me. The it was brought up again on ss.com about 6-8 weeks ago. The engine never made the power one would expect from 10:1, 2400cc, dual 48mm webers, etc...

I'd heard this about the car from people before and after I bought it. It seems logical to figure this out now that the engine is in pieces. The camshaft would be the first logical explanation, would it not ?
Please Login or Register to post a reply
john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
Infallible Moderator
Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA
Join Date: 12/20/2005
Age: Fossilized
Posts: 14,152

Rally Car:
Saab 96 V4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 01:54PM
Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "If there is nothing wrong with the cam leave the
> poor fucker alone."
>
> It was something JVL and I had initially talked
> about when he was building the engine for me. The
> it was brought up again on ss.com about 6-8 weeks
> ago. The engine never made the power one would
> expect from 10:1, 2400cc, dual 48mm webers,
> etc...
>
> I'd heard this about the car from people before
> and after I bought it.

Yes but those who were "working on" the car, the ones who couldn't figure out HOW to repair the head or figure out which pistons to uses (despite the manufacturers marks on the pistons), the ones that charged USD 450+ to wash the block and the crank and the other parts, (and not oil them up) were the same ones which couldn't be troubled to check the valve springs, the ones which when I checked them were found to be giving about 30 lbs seat pressure, and THAT was the source of the float which enabled valve contact which resulted in the motor blowing up and being pulled (and then set aside for a couple of years), remember them? THe so called "WORLD CLASS" preparation facility as they so boastfully claim on the web site?
THAT alone would make it feel like a dog.
As would the tired pistons it had.

I told Morten that the can wasn't looking to marvey.
And now that it has some decent valve springs, he ought to consider a fresh cam.
And I have no idea what cam Jackman was using.



It seems logical to figure
> this out now that the engine is in pieces. The
> camshaft would be the first logical explanation,
> would it not ?

You could measure the cam lift with a simple "very-near" digital caliper and I think you'll find the various lobes are all over the place.






John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 02:48PM
"Yes but those who were "working on" the car, the ones who couldn't figure out HOW to repair the head or figure out which pistons to uses (despite the manufacturers marks on the pistons), the ones that charged USD 450+ to wash the block and the crank and the other parts, (and not oil them up) were the same ones which couldn't be troubled to check the valve springs, the ones which when I checked them were found to be giving about 30 lbs seat pressure, and THAT was the source of the float which enabled valve contact which resulted in the motor blowing up and being pulled (and then set aside for a couple of years), remember them? THe so called "WORLD CLASS" preparation facility as they so boastfully claim on the web site?"

I don't know about all this stuff, these were things the previous owner dealt with. I took the car and motor to you because you were the original builder and knew the car.

JVL no dis-respect intended but I find it frustrating that you're contineously willing to dedicate a significant amount of time to shit talk Van Bogart and his shop.

Especially since I'm the one in the situation of having to tear down the motor you built with only 1 stage event on it and less than 1500 total miles. Please help me out with understanding what went wrong with the motor, and help me to spec the camshaft we talked about when you did the initial build.

Thanks !

Please Login or Register to post a reply
john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
Infallible Moderator
Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA
Join Date: 12/20/2005
Age: Fossilized
Posts: 14,152

Rally Car:
Saab 96 V4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 03:03PM
Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "Yes but those who were "working on" the car, the
> ones who couldn't figure out HOW to repair the
> head or figure out which pistons to uses (despite
> the manufacturers marks on the pistons), the ones
> that charged USD 450+ to wash the block and the
> crank and the other parts, (and not oil them up)
> were the same ones which couldn't be troubled to
> check the valve springs, the ones which when I
> checked them were found to be giving about 30 lbs
> seat pressure, and THAT was the source of the
> float which enabled valve contact which resulted
> in the motor blowing up and being pulled (and then
> set aside for a couple of years), remember them?
> THe so called "WORLD CLASS" preparation facility
> as they so boastfully claim on the web site?"
>
> I don't know about all this stuff, these were
> things the previous owner dealt with. I took the
> car and motor to you because you were the original
> builder and knew the car.
>
> JVL no dis-respect intended but I find it
> frustrating that you're contineously willing to
> dedicate a significant amount of time to shit talk
> Van Bogart and his shop.

Only because you moaned so loud that you should have listened to him, and alos that he talks such shit about me, and finally the well established habit he has of doubling and trippling quoted prices as he did on the two cage jobs I subcontracted to him.
>
> Especially since I'm the one in the situation of
> having to tear down the motor you built with only
> 1 stage event on it and less than 1500 total
> miles.



Please help me out with understanding what
> went wrong with the motor, and help me to spec the
> camshaft we talked about when you did the initial
> build.
I suggested already you get the thing you posted specs on, what the fuck??!!

Realistically, there is very little that can be done at a distance.
Very little that should be expected after the various subterfuges and evasions about paying that I dealt with from you (sorta sucks doesn't it? I mean had you paid promtly I would say "Bring it back and lets look at it and see what might have caUSED THE PROBLEM.".)(Not to mention the 140 plus emails much like we are seeing here....hundreds and hundreds of questions.... )

And there's the question of the motor having been in another shops hands since then, for the little zaaaap on the leak that any shop could have just reached in with the mig-gun and done (and which you were advised was the smartesrt course of action, and reccomended to talk to Rocket where I had described the problem to them....but NOOOOOoooooooooooOOOOO. you went elsewhere)

And Morten, cirlcips sit in grooves in the piston, if they're out of the groove the pin will push them into the cylinder wall and then the pin digsa big, in this case, 22mm groove in the cylinder wall.
They snap it and the get a nudge to make sure they're seated.
>
> Thanks !
>
>






John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 03:21PM
"Realistically, there is very little that can be done at a distance.
Very little that should be expected after the various subterfuges and evasions about paying that I dealt with from you (sorta sucks doesn't it? I mean had you paid promtly I would say "Bring it back and lets look at it and see what might have caUSED THE PROBLEM.".)(Not to mention the 140 plus emails much like we are seeing here....hundreds and hundreds of questions.... )

And there's the question of the motor having been in another shops hands since then, for the little zaaaap on the leak that any shop could have just reached in with the mig-gun and done (and which you were advised was the smartesrt course of action, and reccomended to talk to Rocket where I had described the problem to them....but NOOOOOoooooooooooOOOOO. you went elsewhere)"

Are you going to stop this flame non-sense anytime soon !

I have been pretty patient, let the past slide, tried to make ammends with you and until your last post I really felt that the past was the past.

John I don't want to get back into this with you, I've been trying to embrace the future and forget the past but evidently you are unable to do so.

This transaction with Van bogart and the bloody cages, was how many years ago ?

You're right I did talk to Rocket, but you'll also remember telling me that you saw the welding they did in Andy's car, and you said you were not impressed.

I didn't go to Rocket in Squamish because when my car was delivered to me, my new motor was leaking a quart every 48 hours just sitting in my garage. Squamish is about 60 miles away, and I couldn't drive the car because of the leak. Newly built motor and unable to drive the car -> Nice !

Instead of going to rocket because of the distance, I contacted the West Coast Rally Association and numerous people including Paul Westwick recommended the shop I took the leaking motor to to get fixed. They took the motor out, removed the pan, and welded it out of the car. That definately couldn't have hurt the motor.

I've been biting my tongue since my motor seized and I will continue to do so, and for the sake of everyone else you should do the same.

It's laughable that you would try to blame the Accusump on the failure especially since you re-installed it on the motor yourself !

JVL... Let's stop this flame bullshit here and now !

Lets focus on the failure analysis so we may all learn something from this !!!





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/28/2006 03:23PM by Morten.
Please Login or Register to post a reply
john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham
Infallible Moderator
Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA
Join Date: 12/20/2005
Age: Fossilized
Posts: 14,152

Rally Car:
Saab 96 V4



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 05:13PM
Morten Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "Realistically, there is very little that can be
> done at a distance.
> Very little that should be expected after the
> various subterfuges and evasions about paying that
> I dealt with from you (sorta sucks doesn't it? I
> mean had you paid promtly I would say "Bring it
> back and lets look at it and see what might have
> caUSED THE PROBLEM.".)(Not to mention the 140 plus
> emails much like we are seeing here....hundreds
> and hundreds of questions.... )
>
> And there's the question of the motor having been
> in another shops hands since then, for the little
> zaaaap on the leak that any shop could have just
> reached in with the mig-gun and done (and which
> you were advised was the smartesrt course of
> action, and reccomended to talk to Rocket where I
> had described the problem to them....but
> NOOOOOoooooooooooOOOOO. you went elsewhere)"
>
> Are you going to stop this flame non-sense anytime
> soon !

Morten, this isn't flame nonsense. It's a simple fact, no MORAL judgements at all.
>
> I have been pretty patient, let the past slide,
> tried to make ammends with you and until your last
> post I really felt that the past was the past.

There are no amends to be made. Just because I chooose not to do business with you doesn't mean I don't want to see a fellow rally-type guy get their car together.
>
> John I don't want to get back into this with you,
> I've been trying to embrace the future and forget
> the past but evidently you are unable to do so.

I don't forget that I had to scrable around to pay my mortgage while you dithered about with lame excuses, you were off the bottom of the "Christams card list" at that point.

>
> This transaction with Van bogart and the bloody
> cages, was how many years ago ?

Just 3. Does that mean that his defrauding me gets all better?
>
> You're right I did talk to Rocket, but you'll also
> remember telling me that you saw the welding they
> did in Andy's car, and you said you were not
> impressed.


>
> I didn't go to Rocket in Squamish because when my
> car was delivered to me, my new motor was leaking
> a quart every 48 hours just sitting in my garage.
> Squamish is about 60 miles away, and I couldn't
> drive the car because of the leak. Newly built
> motor and unable to drive the car -> Nice !

Now this is where I still get pissed.
You delivered a motor in pieces blown up a couple of years before.
Built SEVENTEEN years before.
The head was damaged, valve or two broken, pistons tired.
I had the head repaired for HUNDREDS less than any other option.
Freshen the bores, cleaned and magnafluxed the crank and polished it.

That was the extent of the damage and wear.

You know that somebody else, and this is where you show your somewhat slimey side, modified the pan, and somebody installed the "Accusump" crap on top of the oil cooler taKE OFF.
You continually allude that _I_ had something to do with YOUR PAN having a leak.

You attempt to paint that picture.

I installed the pan that YOU supplied.
I've done that for 25 years without checking for leaks (except in the NE where rust thru was a constant issue).

Before anything could be done we were already into the 6 or 7 or 8 wek struggle to get payment for MY outlay for parts, and machine work for your plaything.
THERE DISAPPEARED any williness to help in any significant way and any future business relationship.
I even said it makes no sense to screw the only person who to that point had been willing to help you.
Not smart at all.

And so once again you allude intentionally that I am responsible for your pan, modified by others, (who you probably know who it is) leaking.

Had you paid when told, I would have jumped on the thing, it was easily reachable from above or the side.

Crazy a business model as it may be but people that pay when presented with a bill, get good service.
>
> Instead of going to rocket because of the
> distance, I contacted the West Coast Rally
> Association and numerous people including Paul
> Westwick recommended the shop I took the leaking
> motor to to get fixed. They took the motor out,
> removed the pan, and welded it out of the car.
> That definately couldn't have hurt the motor.

Do we have any idea at all how they primed the oil pump?
How long the motor was cranked before fire up??
(Those are legitimate questions, not attempts top shift blame or attention.)
>
> I've been biting my tongue since my motor seized
> and I will continue to do so, and for the sake of
> everyone else you should do the same.


>
> It's laughable that you would try to blame the
> Accusump on the failure especially since you
> re-installed it on the motor yourself !

As it arrived; I wasn't told by the owner to take it off, and I'm NOT blaming it, fuckhead. I have ASKED if there could be some hook up fuck ups. I don't like to add gee gaws and trinkets as they add variables into equations, come on, you can see that can't you??
>
> JVL... Let's stop this flame bullshit here and now
It's not flaming, Flaming is a pointless thing intending to be a pointless attack.
By that standard you moaning about the leak in your oil pan that somebody else modded in the way you have done repeatedly is "flaming" and "Trolling" or whatever cutsey Interne talk it is.
I suggest you stop trying selectively forget things, such as your role in creating my arttitude towards resolving things.

> !
>
> Lets focus on the failure analysis so we may all
> learn something from this !!!

That is also why I have posted here, the whole process can be educational, but part of that whole process is how the 2 way street works, and how fucked up things get when people stick things on when they clearly have no idea of what they are doing, other than opening boxes and mounting components.
>
>
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Feb 28, 2006 by
> Morten.






John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Morten
Morten
Ultra Moderator
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: 01/11/2006
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 366

Rally Car:
1974 Dodge Colt



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 05:55PM
Lighten up would you ?

At this rate (taking your age into account) you're gonna have a fucking hernia !

You should learn from this and embrace the experience :

Van Bogart alledgedly ripped you off.
Manspeaker alledledly stole from your yard when you were not home.
One of the people on the forum alledgely has the tires and stuff you left back East.
I'm not on your Christmas list.

You make a shitload of accusations about people, and evidently you never do anything wrong ? And as soon as anyone speaks up against you in their own defence, you're down their throat.

You've stated that you would have looked at my motor if you had been paid on time. I would sure fucking hope so ! You did forget to mention that you got paid 100% of your bill to me, including some incidentals that I disagreed with. You got your money so shut up about it !

Whether you believe it or not, you're accountable to some extent for my motor. BUT I'm not holding my breath.

I didn't know the pan was leaking when you got the dis-assembled motor. BUT the fact that you let a newly built motor that was leaking a quart of oil every 2 days leave your shop, does say a thing or two about you.

I brought you to motor and asked you to build it. I didn't know shit about the components and had you suggested that it's a good idea to replace the oil and water pumps as well as the timing chain I would have said yes. But when you come on this board and try to discount ANY liability for the failure by saying some shit about the motor not being a full rebuild because the customer didn't instruct it to be is nothing short of WEAK at best !

I never told you to do a partial build. I found TEP and forwarded you links to the bare head as well as camshafts from them. I was more than willing to pay more to get a good motor. It was you who decided to have the head welded and repaired.

I am so sick of this and your non ending one sided shit.

You got 100% of you money and what did I get ?
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Skye
Skye Nott
Infallible Moderator
Location: Vancouveh
Join Date: 12/18/2005
Age: Possibly Wise
Posts: 476

Rally Car:
Xratty



Re: Paint, clutch cable, and electrical
February 28, 2006 06:27PM
Morten, Morten, Morten.

You know John was just co-driving at an event, that multiplies his moderator status by at least 10, he's such a Super-Ultra-Mega Moderator now you better be careful.

Do you even have a clue as to why it expired yet btw?

Posts: 297 keep up the good work

Skye



www.rallyrace.net
Please Login or Register to post a reply
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

Click here to login