Link to tubular VW control arms. Thoughts?

Southern California Cylinder Heads (SCCH) is promoting their VW tubular control arms. I'm curious what the metal masters here think of the design on sight. I'm not interested in buying them but I know tubular control arms comes up once in a while.




http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4100935

They don't look to me like they'd can handle rally.

-e



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2008 10:28PM by Eddie Fiorelli.

Pretty fucking cool looking to me. What they selling them for. Find Eric Burmeister's rear stuff. I usually just google photobucker sirlurch and can find it. Look similar, though maybe larger rod ends.

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Grant Hughes

>
> They don't look to me like they'd can handle
> rally.
>


I completely agree. I can see at least three places where they will break. I wouldn't even use them on a road race car.

you wanna see over priced, look at those products.

designed for road racing too.

guy does great work, but he thinks its worth a mint.

---

-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
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Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

Boy, do those look flimsy......Mark B.

Tom B Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> you wanna see over priced, look at those
> products.
>
> designed for road racing too.
>
> guy does great work, but he thinks its worth a
> mint.
>


All you VW pervs, those things are for severely LOWERED VWs but the design by not having a LH/RH thread thing means you still gotta pull the pivot bolt in order to length/shorten the thing, and that suxorz big weenies.

Remmeber anytime I talk to you guys in person I always ask "Whoddya got for a service crew?"

So what's gonna happen----even presuming for a moment that the stuff was stout enuf---when you want a real alignment and drop your car off and say "DOooooods---I's wants 4.5 degrees o'castor, 1.5 degrees neg camberz, and .040-060 toez in" and the guys look and see they gotta pull in the inner pivot bolts?

Heya youz! FAWKa YouZ!
And your pain in the cloaca VW caca!

And whaddya gonna do in some service---again presuming the things don't outright fail--- when you've gone and thumped sumppin and tweaked the front just a smidge?
You gonna pull inner pivot boltsa and twirl the rod ends and then start over?


Gotta be stouter, gotta have in situ adjustability or why bother?

I's getting a bit of progress on the old stale projects around here so more time to think about NEW projects.

Let's make something CLUBMAN STRONG, with the qualities of the best junk we can find.
Something strong enough to work on a heavier Xratty or Volvo so there's BEEEG MARGIN of safety on your puny widdle Vee Wees.

WE can do it.


> __________________________________________________
> _________
> Fine Tuning | DemonRally
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

John,

Are you talking about developing a universal control arm? When is a good time for me to stop by so we can talk about it?

Robert.

---

Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

Rallymech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> Are you talking about developing a universal
> control arm? When is a good time for me to stop
> by so we can talk about it?
>
> Robert.

Been talking to Xratty and Volvo and GTX guys and why not VW guys, I got nothing against anybody.

Right now heading to machine shop but just call anytime, only just off 128th and 20th Ave S

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hmm they sure are cute looking. John i have a tig at my disposal, are you going to
put something like that together? im going on your other stuff i cleened house
and will see you by the end of next week, with some new toys

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TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

I'm putting something similar together for the Mini, it's half the weight of a golf though and no front ARB to feed weird loads into the the side/middle of a tube. Not sure about that long extension on the balljoint pin either.

I'll toss up photos of my setup tomorrow for comparison -- Speedway Engineering, circle track place, sells those clevises for next to nothing, they also carry right/left swedged tubes in one inch increments for ~$10 apiece -- I had a friend machine up a nice two-way clevis (replaces all the welded fanciness) from 4140 for a few cups of coffee.

t

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Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

One word...

Why?

---

Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

Lurch Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> One word...
>
> Why?

Lurchie ol bean!
Firsty:
Hain't any more GTX lower arms in the world
Second:
Xratty stock lower arms have the balljoint as part of the arm, pooch out the balljoint---and they hainta so beeg, and you buy a new control arm.
Third and Forth:
GTX, VW, Frod, and OVLOV don't have any means to dial in any additional castor

A little wack-brrrrrrrrrrr-zzzziiiiiiiiii ching on a CNC mill and hey presto problem solve and one has a big enough run to justify the CAD part of it.

Now, 24-28 bucks and we plop in a ball joint.
>
> Lurch
> Eric Burmeister
> Greatlakesknowitallatlarge
> Dee-troit
> Still work at Ford...for now...check back
> tomorrow.
> Not anymore. Fired.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Little slower than a day, but here are the arms (with factory stuff for comparison) and clevis (with balljoint pin) I've put together for the Mini, threads are all 5/8" are set up L/R for on-car adjustment, Only expensive thing about it was the tapered reamer ($75 IIRC) for the balljoint taper.

Cheers, Ted

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Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

Ted Andkilde Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Little slower than a day, but here are the arms
> (with factory stuff for comparison) and clevis
> (with balljoint pin) I've put together for the
> Mini, threads are all 5/8" are set up L/R for
> on-car adjustment, Only expensive thing about it
> was the tapered reamer ($75 IIRC) for the
> balljoint taper.

I like. Did you do it yourself, or know someone/company?

Cheers

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

I bought all the bits from Speedway motors -- was really inexpensive, the clevis I sketched up, had an engineer friend look over, then had another friend carve out of 4140.

Total investment is about $250 for two full sets and the tool (tapered reamer) I had to buy.

I think they're too light for a Golf, but the Mini is going to be about 1500lbs wet, roughly 100hp or so. The stock stuff holds up to rally use (the long slender trailing links bend over time) for the Brits, but don't allow for easy caster/camber adjustment.

Cheers, Ted

---

Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2008 05:47PM by Ted Andkilde.