Wiring Planning and Diagram

I'm planning the harness for the new car, I just finished stripping the engine harness and getting rid of all the useless junk we wont use.

I'm working on making a diagram for the new harness including all the components as well as making a list of parts to order for making the harness

Here are the base images I have so far:




Here is a parts list including links and prices:

http://www.futurlec.com/LEDGen.shtml
1ea Red panel mount 12V LED $.80/ea
2ea Green panel mount 12V LED $.80/ea
1ea Yellow panel mount 12V LED $.80/ea

http://order.waytekwire.com/products/M37/380/400/200/1
1ea 1/4" F6 braided split sleeving 50'/$30
1ea 1/2" F6 braided split sleeving 50'/$45
1ea 3/4" F6 braided split sleeving 50'/$57
1ea 8" cable ties 1000 bag $18
4ea 10 amp breakers $3.92/ea
2ea 15 amp breakers $3.92/ea
3ea 20 amp breakers $3.92/ea
3ea 30 amp breakers $3.92/ea
2ea 1/4" HD Black Polyolefin Cross-linked Heat-Shrink With Adhesive 4'/2.50/ea
1ea 5/16" HD Black Polyolefin Cross-linked Heat-Shrink With Adhesive 4'/3.00/ea
1ea 1/2" HD Black Polyolefin Cross-linked Heat-Shrink With Adhesive 4'/3.75/ea
1ea cold shrink tape 30' x 1" roll $8.46
50ea 22-18 Gauge Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink 1/4'' Push-On Male Terminals $.41/ea
50ea 22-18 Gauge Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink 1/4'' Push-On Female Terminals $.41/ea
50ea Uninsulated high-quality 22-18ga butt-connectors $.04/ea

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/accessories/bk1.shtml
22 terminal weatherproof firewall connector $30/ea

http://www.skygeek.com/tefzel-mil22759-16.html#top
50' 18ga Tefzel wire black $.18/ea
50' 18ga Tefzel wire brown $.22/ea
50' 18ga Tefzel wire red $.18/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire orange $.22/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire yellow $.29/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire green $.18/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire blue $.22/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire gray $.23/ea
25' 18ga Tefzel wire white $.18/ea

any suggestions are appreciated....my last harness worked, but was a mess, so this one will be planned out a bit better. I'm working on the actual diagram now, the images above were just to get an idea of components and placement.

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

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Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/04/2008 01:29AM by Tom B.

I'm not seeing a breaker/fuse panel for aux stuff like the intercom and camera, ham radio, codriver light, etc - just the on/off switches. Or are you planning on running all that off the 20A breaker?

What about aux relays for your headlights? What about the ballasts for your HIDs?

I dunno which throttle body you're using, but do you need to break that down into idle switch, fullthrottle switch, and/or position sensor if you've added one?

Reverse light switch, on the tranny.

e-brake switch, if you've got one (the one that lights up the idiot light on the panel). Ignore if you've ripped that out and gone hydro.

You've got washer fluid marked, but I don't see the wiper motor anywhere.

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Self-righteous douche canoe

Thanks Mike, I uploaded an older version for some reason at first, but I didn't have relays listed for some reason.... oh well!

Balast for HID's, I like that one...

what do you think of the firewall plug and wiring supplies?

Newer version up now.

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

I like shrink tubing all the wires instead of corrogated loom. You cant access the wires as easily, but it protects them better. And it looks way more pro.

Have you thought about running different wire sizes for signal wires and wires that only activate relays and small lights. You might be able to save some weight and loom size this way.

This stuff looks way more pro than heat shrink, if you're into looking pro http://www.techflex.com/prod_CCP.asp . Myself? I use hockey tape, it looks oem, and it's dirt cheap.

18Ga is pretty light already...(maybe too light for a couple things) I would love to go with some different sized wires, but I am trying to do this as cheap and as good as I can do it...

check out the wire covering I am using:

http://order.waytekwire.com/products/M37/380/400/200/1

looks pretty baller...I want to be able to access the wiring after it is loomed as well in case of a short or subtraction or addition to the harness, shrink tube would be dope, but impractical for wiring issues.

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

Tom,

Tell us about your launch control.

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

Tom, I'm doing this for a sophisticated autocross car right now. The rally car is a '63 Saab 96 that has 8 wires in the entire car!

For the autocrosser, a Miata shell with a Haltech ECU, Stack dash and OEM ABS components but only lights are brake lights. I've used Viseo, a flowchart program, to plan the wiring schematic and layout. Those are separate items. One shows the electrical map with very little relation to position in the car and the other shows the layout of the harness and other electrical items in the car. I used four colors of wire, blue for switched power (anything that is powered when the "key" switch is on, red for constant power (anything that is powered when the battery is connected), green for constant ground, and white for everything else.

I used Powerpoint to rough out the layout of my two dashboards - one a "Main" panel that is near the driver with things that may need to be operated in competition and a "Power" panel that contains all the relays, switched and constant power distribution, aux power sockets for cameras and other accessories, and switches to override some of the computer controlled systems. I'm in the middle of moving the panel designs to Front Panel Express for eventual production. I kept track of all the components and connectors with a half-assed spreadsheet in Excel. I sorted it to use it as a shopping list.

For wire sizes it looks like I'm sticking with three sizes, 20, 16 and 4 AWG. 20 is for sensors, 16 for motors (fans, fuelpump), solenoids and brake lights, and 4 for battery, starter and alternator cables. This simplifies the connectors and terminals I need and tools (stripper and crimp dies) I have to buy. I might end up using some 14 and 8 gauge if things are marginal.

I can send any of the files, or JPG versions of them. They're too big to post here.

I'm using a wide variety of connectors. Some OEM Sumimoto connectors for injectors, sensors and ECU components, Deutsch DTM for some sensors and warning lights, Mil-Spec connectors anytime the wires pass through the firewall or through the Main and Power panel enclosures, Packard Weatherpacks for some sensors, and Molex Permaseal crimp quick-disconnects and ring terminals. I was able to find replacement pins for the Sumimoto connectors from Ballenger Motorsports.

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Jason McDaniel

Have you looked at the Painless wiring products. I know they have some universal harnesses that you could use to run all the lights and stuff and then just make a custom harness for the engine.

Jason, how big are those files? If you want I can host them if you want to send them my way.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/05/2008 02:53PM by Andrew_Frick.

> Jason, how big are those files? If you want I can
> host them if you want to send them my way.

The JPG of the schematic are 1meg or so. The Viseo is also about 1meg. All the other files are about 50k. I'd rather they not be hosted for public consumption. Email me at modernbeat at gmail and I'll send you a ZIP of the big JPG and the Viseo and Powerpoint files.

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Jason McDaniel

Rallymech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tom,
>
> Tell us about your launch control.

Not really launch control, although its fun to call it that. It's basically a rev limiter on a switch. Activated, it limits engine speed to a predetermined launch RPM (no more trying to hold revs on a moderately cammed motor on the start line). I release the clutch and it stops the limiter by the use of a switch on the pedal.

It is a megasquirt feature that should work OK for starting the car.

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
Spitfire EFI | Product Apparel | JVAB Imports | NLS | AP Tuning | USRT

Add us on Facebook | Next Event: 2013 Olympus Rally June 22-23 Olympia, WA

>
> Not really launch control, although its fun to
> call it that. It's basically a rev limiter on a
> switch. Activated, it limits engine speed to a
> predetermined launch RPM (no more trying to hold
> revs on a moderately cammed motor on the start
> line). I release the clutch and it stops the
> limiter by the use of a switch on the pedal.


That absolutely is launch control. Always just a rev-limiter activated by the clutch/aux switch. Push clutch in....flip "launch" switch, and insert accellerator to floor, let the clutch out and you go!

Ofcourse there are fancy pants systems out there which measure wheel speeds, and limit the amount of power the engine makes to allow the car to accellerate faster.

but 90% of the stuff is just as you describe!

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Chris

Tom, Thanks. Another good reason to run MS! I am a big fan of the Deutsch connectors. I work for Caterpillar and we use them on everything now. The plugs are reusable so I scavenge them off old harnesses. The one problem with Deutsch is that the crimper is very expensive. I found a used one at Boeing surplus for $6! I will post the manufacturer name of my surplus crimper. I am sure that it would be cheaper to buy new than the Deutsch unit.

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

I bought a Daniels DMC Mil-Spec crimper off ebay for about $20 including the right turret. The secret is deciphering the part numbers. Here's what you want.

For crimping solid Deustch connectors:
TH1A = M22520/1-02/ TURRET Head for AF8
AF8 = M22520/1-01 Hand Rachet crimper

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Jason McDaniel