Pin jack stands

I'm talking about building the actual stands. We need a how to like we've got for cage gussets and so many other useful topics here on Anarchy.
Okay, so let's see it Burke. I want pictures, drawings, dimensions, materials, angles, how long it took, etc.

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Grant Hughes

ha! ok...I'll get on it this weekend and upload all my shit. I don't know if I have the original diagram I sketched, but I can probably recreate it easily enough.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

So, did you stick with your plan, copied below from an old thread. Let's see some pics of everything. If you can put them on facebook, you can put them on here.

Design...I'm basically going to copy these guys:
http://www.motorsport-tools.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=56&products_id=632

For the sill:
11 gauge support plates
1 OD x .065 wall x .870 ID 1020 DOM Structural Round Steel Tube


For the Jack stands:
.75"OD 1020 DOM solid bar

'Support' (2" long, solid bar inserted/welded into support, which is welded to top of stand)
1 OD x .120 wall x .760 ID 1020 DOM Structural Round Steel Tube


for the stand and lower cross-bar support:
1-1/8 OD x .065 wall x .995 ID 1020 DOM Structural Round Steel Tube


23" high, 16" base. I'll probably put in the gussett too, but no fancy 'dish'.

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Grant Hughes

yup, that's about it...but the sill receiver I switched to 1"x.120wall for a tighter fit with the .75"diam pin.

The sill support plates were 5x2". The inside of the rear sills didn't need to be reinforced, it was much thicker than the outside metal.

stands turned out to be 24" high , but that's easily controlled by how much you cut off the bottom.

The angle of the top cut was 18 or 20 degrees...something like that. My 'notches' for the cross supports were ghetto.

pics coming...facebook only has a few, I"ll put them in some kind of order.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

I Ordered materials from www.allmetalsinc.com

4 piceses of the 1.25"x 6ft long...that gives you enough for each leg and the cross support.

Cut each 6 foot piece into 2 26" pieces, the leftover is your support.

2 ft of the .75"dia solid bar...cut into 4 even pices, 6" each.

32" of the 1x.12wall bar.....4 pices x 6" long (for receivers) and 4 pieces x 2" long.

Metal bandsaw....cut each piece at a 70 degree (from perpendicular). Weld the tops together:



1" hole saw, drill the top off perpendicular....weld the 2" piece of tubing to the top of it:



Insert the 6" .75"dia rod in...flush to the rear, and weld:



the 'gussetts' are 2"x1" triangles. weld accordingly.

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for the cross support, just measure and cut accordingly....you can set your height however you want.



my ghetto notches...I just made some straight cuts on the band saw and then hit it with a grinder.



finished welds...now just cut the feet however you want...flush, etc.



I don't have pics, but I put little feet on the bottoms of the main tubes so they don't dig in. lots of options there.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

FEA coming soon. Mark misread my specifications and did everything in 1" tubing, but okay. The shear of the pin is the weakest spot anyhow... Now to find a band saw...

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Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
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> Now to find a band saw...

Or a chop saw, angle grinder, hacksaw, sawzall, torch, etc...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2009 05:29PM by Carl S.

^^that's nice....and your gussets are prettier than mine.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Actually, the severe angle is nearly impossible to cut with any of the methods you've listed there Carl. You can use a combination, like use the chop saw, then grind on it with an angle grinder and other such nonsense. A band saw is the easiest way to cut the angle probably...

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Grant Hughes

Yeah cutting the angles was a bitch. I made some wooden angle pieces on a mitre saw and clamped them into the chop saw--allowed me to get much closer to the acute angles I needed, although had to do a lot of touch-up with a grinder to get it consistent.

Shoulda used round tube for the adjustable height socket. Only real regret.

One socket on the car was off by 1/4" (perhaps wasn't level when we put it in or something), which also sucks. But overall works quite well.

Complete Gallery

adjustable = key


I didn't event think of that. nice.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Am I crazy or just missing something? why not triangulate the stand to give you a little more lateral stability on something less perfect than your shop slab?

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http://www.ckrally.com

cblakely Wrote:
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> Am I crazy or just missing something? why not
> triangulate the stand to give you a little more
> lateral stability on something less perfect than
> your shop slab?
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>

like these?


bit harder to make (for me at least)

I can't find these for sale ANYwhere either.


My receivers have a slight downward angle, so the jack stands angle OUT just a few degrees for a little more stability.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

More to fabricate and not as easy to transport.

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Grant Hughes

I guess you could always put in a 3rd leg? just drop it straight down from the top? maybe at a slight angle? little to the left?

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/