Specs on Focus rotors

I remember from my Focus days that the bolt pattern is 4x108. Same as the Audi.

Looking to see if there are rotor options I can use.

Does anyone know the:
-- rotor offset
-- rotor thickness

I've seen slotted rotors that are 11.025" or 280mm, which would be perfect for the wilwoods I'm looking to use - if the offset and thickness match.

Thanks!

Vittorio

vbares Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I remember from my Focus days that the bolt
> pattern is 4x108. Same as the Audi.
>
> Looking to see if there are rotor options I can
> use.
>
> Does anyone know the:
> -- rotor offset
> -- rotor thickness
>
> I've seen slotted rotors that are 11.025" or
> 280mm, which would be perfect for the wilwoods I'm
> looking to use - if the offset and thickness
> match.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Vittorio

Oi want to try these?



L to R: Cossie 4x4, JVAB, Xratty



Why not post up what your rotors are from outside where the whell hits to flat surface, and then say what the thickness is. Then we can look at centerline.

What Willwoods are you thinking of? And with what pistons in them?

(you can call me for prices on all these bits in calipers.)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ohh boy, dont tell me those things are rigidly mounted to the hats. Are they coleman's by the way?

Cosworth Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ohh boy, dont tell me those things are rigidly
> mounted to the hats. Are they coleman's by the
> way?

Cole made the rotors to my spec.
I made the hats.
And for us simple folks, yes rigid is fine.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Whats the biggest reason the not simple folk use floating mount? or whatever the slotted mounts are called?

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Cosworth Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Ohh boy, dont tell me those things are
> rigidly
> > mounted to the hats. Are they coleman's by
> the
> > way?
>
> Cole made the rotors to my spec.
> I made the hats.
> And for us simple folks, yes rigid is fine.
>
>

Hmm, I dont know about the no float deal. The tabs grow both radially and axially, and at 800F (depending on the thickness) the norm is of about 1mm of heat expanssion.

But anyways, shit man, thats pretty cool that you can make the hats like that. Did you make them or you just took the design to a machine shop?

If you can make the hats how's some Citroen WRC gravel disks that they're not using anymore and could use a good home. They're 310mm X 28mm with 50mm swept area on the fronts and 310 x 25 x 41. And these will take the thermal cycles a lot better and last longer than the Colemans. Interested?

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Whats the biggest reason the not simple folk use
> floating mount? or whatever the slotted mounts are
> called?
>
> Feisty Peacock?
>
> My noodle I doodled was ate by a poodle
Its called a floating mount. Either with Bobbins, T bobbins, or disk in hat (direct drive). The benefits are many and they're all related to the different thermanl expanssion rates on the disk, hat and hardware. Rigid is fine for near stock applications where the main concern is just the weight's savings and I guess cost savings. But on a heavy duty application, the disk with the heat will grow differently than the hat and things will start getting out of shape. From snapping the hardware to warpage to pedal judering from the vibration on the disk and in some cases completely destroying the corner from an exploding disk.

Thats a basic explanation. If you want more thermal and metalurgy details, I can get to it but not today.

Mine seem to survive.
Front by JVAB:


Rear by TCE:


Wonder if Eric's are floating or not...

---

Grant Hughes

Why are the calipers mounted upside down on the 1st pic? You can use rigid mounts but dont think you can hammer on them without any issus arrising at elevated temps. As a matter of fact those calipers arent capable of generating those heat ranges without having issues either. Plus they flex like wet noodles.

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Wonder if Eric's are floating or not...


Eric's don't float but I'm using the same rotor on this floating setup so we'll get to see if there's really any difference.

No. Eric's don't float.



And yeah, they get hot. That anodizing used to be black.

---

Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2009 08:51PM by Lurch.

Lurch Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> No. Eric's don't float.
>
>
>
>
> Lurch
> Eric Burmeister
> The west coast...of Michigan

Jesus H Christ... all that car with only those brakes. Wilwood calipers and x-trac in the same car for some reason just doesnt add up. By the way, the disk on the pic look like it has serious judder marks and heat checking. What pads are those?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2009 08:55PM by Cosworth.

You mean the bleeders don't go down Paul?

That was just a test fit photo. Ex-wife left with the digital camera shortly thereafter, thus the car got done, but the photos dropped off. Best thing could have happened to me.

The biggest problem is the squeeking of pads in rear. Though it makes it nice for reviewing video. It's like having datalogging without.

Floating is undoubtley better. The real question is if it's worth the cost difference in a club level car. I didn't think so for my build...

---

Grant Hughes

Tim,

Is that a Protege knuckle? How much tork you putting down? After twisting splines on Protege splines, I now have a neat solution for a bulletproof (so far) front drive arrangement.

CX7 outer joints (8-ball) with huge splines (machined down to fit the Protege seals) and RX8 (rear) hub flanges (machined down to fit into Protege bearings). Press all the guts into a Protege knuckle.

Making your own radial mount bracket?

---

Lurch
Eric Burmeister
The west coast...of Michigan

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You mean the bleeders don't go down Paul?
>
> That was just a test fit photo. Ex-wife left with
> the digital camera shortly thereafter, thus the
> car got done, but the photos dropped off. Best
> thing could have happened to me.

Oh lol ok ya thats what I was thinking I just noticed the cross over pipe on top and I was like hmmmmm but ya never now. I work with pro teams track side and every now and then we see crazy stuff going on.

> The biggest problem is the squeeking of pads in
> rear. Though it makes it nice for reviewing
> video. It's like having datalogging without.

Good brakes shoud make noise.

> Floating is undoubtley better. The real question
> is if it's worth the cost difference in a club
> level car. I didn't think so for my build...

Again it depends on the heat levels and how many cycles. Luckly in rally heat levels arent as high but still a hairpin at the end of a 400 can get the disks to 1000F. Its just something to be careful, having brake failure its not like a blowing and engine or tranny. Its a safety concern.

One thing's for sure, its a lot better than the stockers.