Painting a shell - On a budget

Unless I'm about to make a big mistake...

I'm going with this stuff:

1K Industrial Epoxy Primer (white) for the bare metal (cage and other patches). It does not require an etch primer and is suitable for direct to metal applications.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/media/pds/English/AS2763.pdf

then,

2K two-component acrylic urethane topcoat (K3 series 3.5 VOC)

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/media/pds/English/AS2745.pdf

I have had great luck with DP 48LF primer sealer by PPG ive done my roll bar, and trunk with it and its taken a lot of abuse.

Okay, so what should I be cleaning with?

Varsol, Paint thinner, laquer thinner, Recordisol, Acetone? Then I see "grease and Wax remover" at the paint supply store. It costs a fortune but the guy behind the counter says it's "the best". I'm figuring that the 'grease and wax remover' is just one of the others, no?

What's what?

I've got about a gallon of each laying in the barn...

Wax and grease is the absolute shit. It works AWESOME. Some solvents leave residue, but wax and grease wont. Does it matter? It's your call.

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Why wax and grease is better, i use it for final clean up after getting all the major stuff if there is off with laq thinner is because it wont dry up super fast, it will give u time to get the oils etc off the surface.

Thanks Timm and Kendrick, I got a gallon for pretty cheap.

Next question:

How much/many CFM do I need to use an HVLP gun?

I can borrow one that has just over 5 CFM, but it only has a 20 gallon tank, will that work?
EDIT: its 5.4 CFM @ 90psi
EDIT#2: That's not going to cut it is it?

I think I can borrow a better on, but it would be pretty big chore disconnecting, draining, all around re-and-re...





Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2010 02:47PM by Daniel Buehler.

Daniel Buehler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Timm and Kendrick, I got a gallon for
> pretty cheap.
>
> Next question:
>
> How much/many CFM do I need to use an HVLP gun?
>
> I can borrow one that has just over 5 CFM, but it
> only has a 20 gallon tank, will that work?
> EDIT: its 5.4 CFM @ 90psi
> EDIT#2: That's not going to cut it is it?
>
> I think I can borrow a better on, but it would be
> pretty big chore disconnecting, draining, all
> around re-and-re...
>
>
>
Id say get the biggest you can, but more important then the air supply is a good dryer inline. I have a Craftsman compressor SCFM Delivery At 40 psi: 6.3 SCFM
SCFM Delivery At 90 psi: 4.9 SCFM. It ran quite a bit when i was spraying but with a good desiccant unit that will ensure you dont have water in your spray job.
>
>
> Edited 3 times. Last edit at Jan 11, 2010 by
> Daniel Buehler.

Tip for the wax and grease, stick it in a spray bottle. Either lightly spray the car, then wipe dry, or spray your cloth, and wipe. Works WAY better.

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Late to the party....... painted small plane parts today. All the advice given is worth while.
Prep is the key. A clean, grease free surface with some "tooth" is all you need. RED scotch brite is just fine for surface abrasion. Tin foil masking is the greatest thing since masking tape, just wrap, crush and spray. Get a large piece of cardboard or something you can test your paint gun on before you aim at the car. I "practice" or plan my painting with an empty gun....that is to say, I look at all the hard to spray areas and get in postion and aim the gun and wrestle the hose so I know what to expect when I actually shoot paint. Shoot all the hard parts and shadow areas first, light to medium coverage, those areas will get more paint when you are shooting the rest of the car, paint top to bottom and work your way out of the car. Remember it is a rally car, not a show piece. Folks tend to obsess on what is right in front of their face and not the overall effect.
WEAR A RESPIRATOR!! NEW PAINTS ARE VERY HARD ON YOUR BODY! Tyvek suit with a hood.

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Diamond Jim
Co-Driver in the Double Zero course opening car
Charter Member of O.U.C.H.
Organized Union of Cat Herders

Hey Jim, just sent you one of those email things about a little dent in wifey's car and a proposal to make some quick valuta.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

What an experience!

I just got the primer down last night, I'll get the paint down tonight or tomorrow.

I AM SO GLAD THIS IS A RALLY CAR!!!

I have sags and runs all over the place, a couple places I just couldn't reach and a few dings. I feel like I did when I was learning to weld. Hand eye coordination and dwell time, surface prep and proper settings...

Good fun.

But to anyone who can do this well - wow! Lots of forethought I'm sure. I tried my best to figure out beforehand how to reach all the tight spots, but I overlooked a couple. I contorted myself pretty good getting the area where the 'x' in the main hoop meets the main hoop...

LOL - that kinda sounds like my own experience with trying to paint a complete car the first time :-).

They make it look soooo easy :-).

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Brgrds
Brian

Take your time and plan on the several coats to get full coverage, ie thin coats 2,3 or more. 1st coat will have see through spots, 2nd coat may have weak spots too, 3rd should be looking pretty good, another coat or two if needed ...

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As always IMHO

SEAN TENNIS KF7JJR
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
SAAB 99, SAAB 850
SAAB V4, SAAB 99T

I just want to offer up a sincere "Thank you!" to everyone who took time to answer my questions.

I'm really happy with how it's working out.

I used a $20 Princess Auto HVLP gun, two $5 dessicant filters and I hooked up my shop vac to a vent on my garage door to remove the oversparay from the air. It all worked Flawlessly!

That looks great!