How to turret shock mounts........

JVL and any one else that has done this.

How do you go about making the shock mounts turreted and maintain the shock angle designed by the factory. Can the angle of how the shock mounts be changed from original without affecting the handeling of the vehicle. Currently the shock angle at about 20 degrees inward (into center of vehicle) at the top mount.

Inquiring minds want to know .

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...If you don't go off at least once a season you are not trying hard enough...

Buy a Ford Escort and the just order the turret kit.
Simply check the box for []Forest or []tarmac.

For all those other cars, maybe we should ask our new member Dave "I have more and nicer cars than you do" Shindle...

No?

OK what Adam did on his Toiletta Commodah and what we'll be doing on Kevin's and John Lane and maybe that slacker Kirby up in BC on their OVLOVs is to find some remnants of truck driveshaft tubing about 4- 4.5" diameter and hole saw or plasma cut holes or slots above and ever so slightlly ahead of (Place your shocks in the arc the axle describes such that more or less at "normal ride height the shock is 90* to the axle). Then shove the tube up, weld all round and trim off the excess shit.
Since decent off the shelf Bilsteins are available for very reasonable money, I would fab the top of the tube to accept the normal Bilstein EYELET top since that's what they come with (why pay $50 for a stainless "Pin" type mount??)(Just to make me happy?) BUT


BUT!!!!!

If you order them thru more with-it vendors like say ME!!! you'll get a 15mm sperical bearing and then you can use the soooper-bitchin' stainless steel spacers which are a clever design which self aligns as you lift the shock up.
Blantant copy of Fords 909 spacers, shameless, but what do you expect from a has been, eh?
You don't have to keep things canted over inboard if its a solid axle car (would help top really know what car Gord), and depending on the shape of the wheel arch and the floor it might be easy to make a cap shaped like a big D to tie the tube, which might be quite long, to the inner wheel arch/chassi---then of course tie the rear stays and X bar and the tube up from the bottom of the main hoop.
There are simple formulas over in that book to calculate effective spring rates if you do cant the shocks.

This help any???

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john bear with me, i'm a retard. I'm going to pretty much type this back to you as I have it figured so you can tell me if I'm confused or understood correctly.

Basically to install these in my shitbox 740, I need to cut a 4ish inch hole in the floor (or whatever size the cylinder is). If the frame rail is in the way go through it, I'm going to reweld around it after anyway. I want to place the turret so that when the car is at normal ride height, the shock is vertical or leaning very slightly forwards.

How far up does the turret protrude beyond the floor? Several inches I would think, you have to be able to weld the cage to it and all that.

I suppose with this I could use an actual coilover type rig, instead of the springs/shocks that the car has from the factory?

You sell a kit to do this with?

yo

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"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.

ok i hear you.

is that a 2nd mount you welded onto the axle?

john vanlandingham Wrote:
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> You don't have to keep things canted over inboard
> if its a solid axle car (would help top really
> know what car Gord), and depending on the shape of
> the wheel arch and the floor it might be easy to


John,

It is a '99 Jeep Cherokee that a friend wants to build for rally. I know, I know, already tried to talk the idiot out of it but he wants to do it. He has already dropped in a V8 into it. His main objective is to get rid of the leaf springs in the back and to lower it without lowering the axel??? Don't ask me, I am just the messenger. He was told by a mutual friend, who built a Lada Niva (russian jeep) for Lada UK and it was fairly successful on tarmac belive it or not, that by turreting the rear suspension he could go to coil springs and lower it by a few inches for better CG. Anyhow I am still trying to convince him that if he wants a V8 to get rid of the Jeep and get a Mooostang, so far no luck. maybe a baseball bat to the back of the head may wake him up out of his comma.

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...If you don't go off at least once a season you are not trying hard enough...

The voices in my head frequently make mention of taking a Cherokee (the body of which is roughly similar in dimension to an older Subaru wagon) and removing the solid axles altogether and converting the whole shebang to independent struts. That way the truggy can be dropped down without sacrificing suspension travel.

Kind of involved, but the voices have never steered me wrong the times I listened to 'em.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Anyone care to humor a no0b on this one? This is the first I've heard of this sort of thing being done. I hate to make any assumptions, but would someone perform this sort of mod for the following reasons (in any particular order)?

-Retaining geometry under load?
-Semi-protecting shock body?
-More component selections?

Thanks.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Yes
No
Yes

And more reasons. You are on the right thought path Grasshopper. Continue.

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2006 03:28PM by sagsert.

sagsert Wrote:
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> And more reasons. You are on the right thought
> path Grasshopper. Continue.

Because chicks dig dudes what can weld stuff?

I can see how this set-up mounts the struts to the cage, thereby keeping everything locked into place as ideally as can be done considering the application, but what purpose does running a gnarly semi-sleeve down into the wheel well serve? (see reposted pic)



To me, and this is total no0bie thought process, it looks as if it might serve to keep rocks and vermin from interfering with the spring. Maybe this is just an in-progress pic showing the assy being positioned.

A couple more questions:

-Would this be beneficial to a FWD car with fully independent* rear suspension?
-This could be done on the front end as well, right?

I think this is way cooler than the $35 upper strut tower bar I bought from the rice shop a few years back. Hehe.


*"Fully independent" as described in the owner's manual, promo literature at the dealership.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Usually done on cars where more suspension travel is needed and more often, cars that used to have a seperate shock/spring setup and want to go to coilovers.

I think the sleeved part is just backyard fabrication result. Where it was cut to general shape, bolted up, then adjusted to where desired and welded in place. May be wrong but that's my guess.

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Grant Hughes

KOHHR-NEEE-CHEE-WHAA BEETCHES!!

the rules in most series say that the cage must be welded to the chassis.

most of the time with a 1/8in plate steel.
you didn't happend to measure the strentgh of the rear wheel well did you?
go ahead, tap it with a hammer, see if you want to attatch a 2000lb car to that shit. more linear weld directly to the STrong part of the car, the frame, makes the rear turrets leagal as cage feet.

the arches down into the fender are there for the same reason your front struts are attatched to the inner fender and the front "frame rails".

so that the shit doesn't rip out.

I'll back yard you douches, . . . with the back of my hand!!!!

ok. more pictures.

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"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.