Tool and equipment?

I've done close to a dozen engine removal/rebuild/installs, swapped out suspension and exhausts, brakes, and a bunch of interior stuff in my years of being the average street tuner, so I know I have a good deal of basic hand tools, but I was wondering what sort of things would you guys consider basics that every rallyist should have in their garage (aside from lots of spares) in order to keep the car alive and well? Some people have lifts, welders, and lathes in their possession. Can you guys give me some suggestions on some items that you would consider requirements beyond your typical hand and air tools that would be must haves, good to haves, and want to haves? Thanks.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Refrigerator to keep the beer cold. First aid kit with lots of bandages.

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RichardM

Cordless impact wrench is possibly the most used tool I've ever bought. Quality mig welder is good to have too.

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Grant Hughes

I lurrrrve my Milwaukee cordless Impact. It even sleeps in my bedroom!

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Nick Taylor.
Knobhead.
Los Angeles, CA.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2006 11:07AM by nick the brit.

Cordless impact! Good call! I've actually used one of those before. My friend had one we affectionately referred to as "Mr. Dewalt." Good times. Duly noted.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Two small electric angle grinders, one with wire wheels, either cup brush or large skinny wheel, the other with a rubber backed 4, or 4.5" sanding disc.
lots of 50grit and 120 and 180 grit discs.



Welder, Mig, running gas using 030 wire.
Jig saw with "family pack" of saw blades.

Welding clamps, big vise grips with extended jaws.


Engine stand, $39 at Tool Towns everywhere.

062 sheet steel. 090 sheet steel.
lots of 6 x6 wood blocks, or larger.


Lots of differnt hammers.
A "speed wrench" in both 3/8 and 1/2 drive.


Boooks.

"Ford Escort Rally Prep"
"How to prepare the Sierra for Motorsport"

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
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> Two small electric angle grinders, one with wire
> wheels, either cup brush or large skinny wheel,
> the other with a rubber backed 4, or 4.5" sanding
> disc.
> lots of 50grit and 120 and 180 grit discs.

Damn. You *must* be good. You can run two at one time? I'm thinking two is ideal, but at least having one around is smart thinking. Aside from "for grinding stuff," what uses do these see on a rally car? Cleaning up welds? Removing three week-old mud from fenders?
--------------------------------------------------------
> Welder, Mig, running gas using 030 wire.

For repairs, no? I'm pretty sure we don't use MIG for cages or anything structural, correct?

-------------------------------------------------------
> Jig saw with "family pack" of saw blades.

Sawzall work? Or does it need to be something more delicate?

-------------------------------------------------------
> Welding clamps, big vise grips with extended
> jaws.

No questions, here.

-------------------------------------------------------
> Engine stand, $39 at Tool Towns everywhere.

Check! (I was beginning to feel utterly unprepared!)

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> 062 sheet steel. 090 sheet steel.
> lots of 6 x6 wood blocks, or larger.

What's the steel for? Wood blocks? I know they're good to have around, but I'm curious as to when things like this would come in handy. Rally racing is not all power slides, big air, fame and fortune, afterall. I'm getting a feel for reality.

-------------------------------------------------------
> Lots of differnt hammers.

Check! Small, Medium, Large, Copper Mallet ("Thor" and the essential BFH.

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> A "speed wrench" in both 3/8 and 1/2 drive.

Air tools suffice? I know I would want one or two of these in the car kit, but the garage? Personal preference, maybe?

-------------------------------------------------------
> Boooks.
>
> "Ford Escort Rally Prep"
> "How to prepare the Sierra for Motorsport"

Useful information across platforms that even Gaylant owners can benefit from reading? I think I one time saw a book about building a rally car. Looked like it came up everywhere and Amazon too.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. Like I said, I'm looking to gain insight into the less glamorous side of rally so I can be prepared for surprises brought on by sudden bouts with reality. Right now, I'm really diggin on the fridge and band aids. I'm also partial to my radio and mister system for keeping things cooler (less hotter). Although Mustafa has yet to check out my garage, I'm certain it passes his "dirty garage" test. (In best Mustafa voice "A clean garage isn't being used for shit!"

Haha.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

DR1665 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> john vanlandingham Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Two small electric angle grinders, one with
> wire
> > wheels, either cup brush or large skinny
> wheel,
> > the other with a rubber backed 4, or 4.5"
> sanding
> > disc.
> > lots of 50grit and 120 and 180 grit discs.
>
> Damn. You *must* be good. You can run two at one
> time? I'm thinking two is ideal, but at least
> having one around is smart thinking. Aside from
> "for grinding stuff," what uses do these see on a
> rally car? Cleaning up welds?

It does save LOTS of time no constantly stopping and changing from sanding disc to wire wheel.
> --------------------------------------------------
> ------
> > Welder, Mig, running gas using 030 wire.
>
> For repairs, no? I'm pretty sure we don't use MIG
> for cages or anything structural, correct?

Mig is used everywhere, for everything, and yes that includes cages.
But also for the critical stitch welding that you'll eventually want to do so youir shell lives longer, and for welding in doublers in sressed places, tabs brackets mounts etc
How you gonna strengthen those flimsey ass trailing arms in the back?
Put a strap over the bush ends so they don't tear out, double the mounting points for the control arms?
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Jig saw with "family pack" of saw blades.
>
> Sawzall work? Or does it need to be something
> more delicate?

Maybe but a small jig saw is much better, unless you can really secure the sheet metal to the table.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Welding clamps, big vise grips with extended
>
> > jaws.
>
> No questions, here.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Engine stand, $39 at Tool Towns everywhere.
>
> Check! (I was beginning to feel utterly
> unprepared!)
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 062 sheet steel. 090 sheet steel.
> > lots of 6 x6 wood blocks, or larger.
>
> What's the steel for? Wood blocks? I know
> they're good to have around, but I'm curious as to
> when things like this would come in handy. Rally
> racing is not all power slides, big air, fame and
> fortune, afterall. I'm getting a feel for
> reality.

Brackets, and mounts.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Lots of differnt hammers.
>
> Check! Small, Medium, Large, Copper Mallet
> ("Thor" and the essential BFH.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > A "speed wrench" in both 3/8 and 1/2 drive.
>
> Air tools suffice? I know I would want one or two
> of these in the car kit, but the garage? Personal
> preference, maybe?

In the garage air is nice for stripping things down but speed wrench is good for running things together without the chance of killing things.
Besides, its quieter, and quiet is good for thinking, compressors will drive you insane eventually.

>
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Boooks.
> >
> > "Ford Escort Rally Prep"
> > "How to prepare the Sierra for Motorsport"
>
> Useful information across platforms that even
> Gaylant owners can benefit from reading? I think
> I one time saw a book about building a rally car.
> Looked like it came up everywhere and Amazon too.

Both those books are detailed enough that the info CAN be transferred accross and you get an idea of just what was done to make cars last for an event or three at WRC level.
Additionally they are organised and have a outline you can follow.
Everybody should have them handy.
>
> Thanks for the replies, everyone. Like I said,
> I'm looking to gain insight into the less
> glamorous side of rally so I can be prepared for
> surprises brought on by sudden bouts with reality.
> Right now, I'm really diggin on the fridge and
> band aids. I'm also partial to my radio and
> mister system for keeping things cooler (less
> hotter). Although Mustafa has yet to check out my
> garage, I'm certain it passes his "dirty garage"
> test. (In best Mustafa voice "A clean garage
> isn't being used for shit!"
>
> Haha.

Good luck.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Brian DR1665 | Phoenix, AZ
> 97 Talon (NT) | 91 GVR4
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I picked some spot weld cutters and a nice folding hoist this weekend when they went on sale:

How much did you pay for the spot weld cutters ?

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

POWER FIST! That's awesome.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

sagsert Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How much did you pay for the spot weld cutters ?

Cutters were $8.99 CAD for the pair. Decided to break down and buy them AFTER doing the 102 fender spotwelds on the XR with a 3/16" drill bit...

Duuuuuude they are a steal at that price. Would you buy 2 sets for me ? I can PayPal you the $$$.

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

FYI spotweld cutters suck ass. You should have bough a 12 pack. You'll need that many to get through one fender. Paddy next time use a 1/2" drill bit and don't worry about drilling all the way through, rotate the bit using the tip for the axis, just enough to get through the first layer. Then hit it with the BFH if need be to break the weld. Goes really quick. Use a cold chisel for the welds in the door jam and underside. JMHO though.

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Scott Manley
Spokane, WA
86' XR4Ti
37



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2006 02:16PM by Scott Manley.

Scott - I grew tired of the small drill bit approach and did just that when removing most of the US headlight surrounds. I ended up getting a bit carried away with the chisel on the air hammer in places however and now have some small patching to do...reminds me, I still need to get the sawzall out to finish that up...

Moose - I ordered them from Princess Auto - www.princessauto.com, essentially the Canadian Harbor Freight. You can likely just get them from them directly if you really want them.