Lets say I wanted to build a car...

Quote
pist'n broke
wouldn't it be better to do suspension first to tie the cage into?

Cage and shell mods is part of same process.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

got it. how's my suspension coming?

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what could go wrong?

Quote
pist'n broke
got it. how's my suspension coming?

Order in in, springs have arrived, $1100 of aluminum is here ready to be made into lock rings and spring seats and top mounts....

It's in Gawds hands now (waiting on Bilstein)

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
BobOfTheFuture
Im trying! Im trying!

Wheel first, Then seats, then cage right?

This med thing sucked up all my money, Im going as fast as I can...

Cage, suspension, sumpgaurd, gearing.......................................................................................................................................... then seats.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................then pimpy wheel

I'm a pretty big guy, I figured setting up the driving position would help before the caging, and the few shops I called about caging all wanted seats first.
With the smallish door portals on the 4 door Volvo and the huge, un adjusatable wheel I figured doing the wheel and seats first would make it more likely that I would be comfortable in the car... no?


The pimpy wheel itself wasnt really needed, but i asked for a good deal and the forum produced.

As for Gearing, John, Ive got most of the stuff you sent but I still need to call you about a disc and a few other things.

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Enablers, All of you.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2012 11:15PM by BobOfTheFuture.

hey bob,

just doing my rear gear research now, who did you get your ring and pinion thru and what ratio did you settle on?

does anybody know what the difference between the complete offroad/yukon/usa standard units. there's quite a differnece in price between the 3 brands? wondering if yukon has some special stress relieving process or forging technique that warrents the extra $$$?

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what could go wrong?

So, I am feeling much better now, And have started working. Money should start flowing ok again so Ive got to continue...

A friend gave me a set of 2 subaru fans off a '98 impreza for free, so I decided to use one to get rid of the engine mounted fan.

I bought a 180* switch and had some relays left over from the door lock system so I set them up and wired the fan directly to the battery. I know most modern cars are rigged to kill the fan with the ignition switch, but I decided to make it temp-only control. I figured this would let me park the car hot and let the fan continue if needed. Think this will bite me in the ass?

The subaru fan was smaller then the stock fan and could not be securely mounted directly to the radiator because of this. I used the fan frame's stock mounts to lock it into the Volvo shroud 2 or so inches back from the radiator by cutting holes in the shroud itself. Im not convinced its strong enough yet, but if it fails, hey, it was free and Ill just have to buy something thats a better fit.

I couldnt drive it, I was out of time, But I did an idle check and the fan seemed to keep the car in the good temp range, but it was pretty cool out at the time. Ill have to give it a good test when it warms up this summer.

No pics guys, sorry, I was in a hurry and it didnt strike me to pull out the phone till it was too late.

And Kevin:

just doing my rear gear research now, who did you get your ring and pinion thru and what ratio did you settle on?
I havent settled on anything, I am planning to worry about the diff farther down the line. John has mentioned the early supra diffs pretty often, and I figure once it is time that is where I'll start looking.

does anybody know what the difference between the complete offroad/yukon/usa standard units. there's quite a differnece in price between the 3 brands? wondering if yukon has some special stress relieving process or forging technique that warrents the extra $$$?
This is beyond me...

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Enablers, All of you.

I've got the Yukon gear from Randys ring and pinion. They were only something like $150 and have held up so far.

Okay folks, So I am back, sorta.
2.5 weeks ago I got my Volvo back. 2 weeks ago i drove it up to Red Hook, NY for the PSCC rallycross they have up there. My car is in the M-RWD class, so It was me vs that V8 rally ranger dude Ive seen at the RNY a few times. We had similar times, but I think he was beating me (I think, they havent posted the times on the net yet) Untill he got stuck in a bog. This gave me my first taste of victory in the Volvo. Its cheap... Very cheap, but hey It def. fueled me to keep pressing.

As a testament to this car, the Odo stopped counting at 212K, and since then it has done 4 3 hr away Rallycrosses with washes and oil changes as its upkeep. I am impressed.

Unfortunately this morning I crashed my daily driver. This might slow me down even farther this year. With the medical problems I had in March, then my dad wrecking and borrowing the Volvo, and now this. I think, besides last weekends BS win, I think this summer might be a wash.

Feels almost like for each step foward I make with the Rally stuff, I get handed a bigger and more harsh penalty. What else can I belive, but that I must be heading the right direction.

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Enablers, All of you.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/18/2012 05:04PM by BobOfTheFuture.

dont lose hope man, i havent had as much time as i'd like to work on mine either, but every time i get a little done it makes for a warm fuzzy. Car builds of this magnatude are always a journey, you get there when you get there

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what could go wrong?

Im not breaking, yet. I find it polarizing.

Just have to remind myself... its about the warm fuzzies... all the warm fuzzies....

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Enablers, All of you.

Actually, if you build up some resentment against the car, maybe even a little hatred, it will help you drive it much faster.

HAHAhahaha... Thats great. I could see that. Thats the funny part though. I wrecked that Ford, and I got excited to work on the Volvo more. How odd is that?

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Enablers, All of you.

Okay, I need some advice from the Volvo pervs.



I've been chasing this noise around for a while, and after changing the RR wheel bearing Saturday (I was SURE that was it... oh well) I finally raised the axle and put it in gear. See here:





Obviously I'm on the right track. Judging from the way the axle changes attitude I guess I beat up that nose bearing. Its leaking too, but has been since day one. I do keep it topped up.
When I put my hand on the axle, it moves slightly but is not sloppy. Honestly, The whole axle feels pretty solid.

Now, I've never broken into a diff before. I'm getting this funny feeling that it may be better just to get a better suited diff and weld it solid like this one is.

So I guess that's why I'm here. Have any of you dealt with this? Can I just get that bearing out, or do I need a puller and press to change it?


Just for fun, Here is the other vid I took today:

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Enablers, All of you.

I am re-reading through all the pages on this.

I am shocked at the amount of info and time you all have donated to my dumb questions.

Thanks. I'm humbled.















And feel like a dork for taking so long...

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Enablers, All of you.