Great video especially for alls youse guys in the doldrums about building your cars
Posted by john vanlandingham
John Vanlandingham Mega Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
John Vanlandingham Mega Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Brian Driggs Godlike Moderator Location: Glendale Join Date: 06/08/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 832 Rally Car: Keyboard. Deal with it. |
Chris Martin Infallible Moderator Location: Toronto, Ontario Join Date: 01/15/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 567 Rally Car: E-85 powered Impreza |
John Vanlandingham Mega Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Michel Hoche-Mong Mod Moderator Location: Campbell, CA Join Date: 02/28/2006 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,156 Rally Car: Golf, Golf, RX-3 |
John Vanlandingham Mega Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
hoche Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > Alright, edumacate me. No. If I try I'll get some fuckin 22 year old engineering student calling me a big asshole. > > I was at Laughlin doing scoring, and didn't see > the brick's off, but I did take a good close look > at the damage done when it was on the trailer that > night back at service. > > I took one look at that front steering knuckle and > said, "hey, the damage doesn't look too bad...just > an A-arm, a tie-rod, a new front hub, and maybe a > strut...hey waitaminnit...how do you change that > front strut in a hurry?" Well------if you have a budget---- spin off the top nut and three nuts at the balljoint, one at tie rod end and slide off the complete strut, knuckle, hub, dics, caliper steering arm, etc, and slide on the spare complete corner you have on the van. > > Now, I freely admit that I'm coming from a world > of Golves and Subidoos where the front strut just > bolts right on to the hub with two bolts, so I'm > an Ovlov ignoramus, but how the heck do you swap > out that strut fast? It looks like it's an > integral part of the hub. Nearly everything once was like this, go look at any old RX2, Rx3, RX7, real 510, alleged 510, Toyota Starlet, Corolla, Celica, Dodge Colt, BMW into the 90s Mercedes, Pugeot rwd, Ford Capri or Escort, Volvo 240 and 740. All. One day Kevin Hawkinson and I were looking at the Sooper Bitchinâ„¢ JVAB RX7 aluminum 4 pot caliper conversions on his 240 and I was say "Dooooooooooooooood, this is seriously fucked up doooood, I mean you're like Swedish decent which means you're skull's thick as a brick, AND you're one year away from being a fuckin Mechanical Injur-near so you'd probably make swaping a corner intop a huge fuckin 4 day project. So I thunk about the vastly superior cars of which I had 4-5 parked around the Ford Xratty which has a knuckle which clamps around the base of the strut like this: 
And I already was thinking of how to swap in the ZF 2.6 turn rack from an Xratty in place of the ZF Volvo rack at 3.75 turns, and we already knew the crossmember was the same width within 5-6mm. so I thought why not the whole knuckle, hub and crossmember, since Ford doesn't hang the spinle out in such nasty shear. Well real quick it hit us Well we could mod the Volvo Knuckle to accept the same socket style strut fitment. And so I had one of may infamous big hits off the ciggie, and sketched out a thing to weld to the knuckle that looks like this: on a Ford Capri: 
Or this one 3 Toyota AE86s in Sacremento, Bellingham WA, and Calgary, Alberta: 
And eventually on Kevins Volvo: 
And it looks as tho I'll be doing some for Brians car. This is one little design thing that I'm sorta proud of cause now IF any Old School guy has a spare, he can now swap one in at service----just like anybody else--- and it actually is an innovation that we've not seen anywhere else, something that Topi Hynanen said of when he saw it "Brilliant innovation..! Now the question is how to make guys aware who have older cars to get the production series up. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Brian Driggs Godlike Moderator Location: Glendale Join Date: 06/08/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 832 Rally Car: Keyboard. Deal with it. |
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
rallybrick Ultra Moderator Join Date: 11/20/2006 Posts: 70 |
Actually, I think he was talking 'bout me.
Gotta get the Brick rolling and racin' again. BTW, Hoche -- the tie rod looks like it's ok -- it broke the casting for the control arm at the base of the hub. So right now, it appears I need a coilover assembly (which probably would be fine otherwise if I'd had a detachable hub) and an A-arm (which would have been MUCH worse if it weren't already boxed and seriously reinforced). Amazing there wasn't more damage (and you should see one of the hits on the skid plate -- a full 3-4" depression -- lucky it wasn't snug up against anything). Scary thing is that this is the wheel that carried the Terratrip probe. It looks ok, but was hanging out there in the wind after the off. Cheers. ...Brian.... |
John Vanlandingham Mega Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
rallybrick Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > Actually, I think he was talking 'bout me. Yeah you're right but Brian needs stuff for the Gaylant too so No problem there either Brian > > Gotta get the Brick rolling and racin' again. > > BTW, Hoche -- the tie rod looks like it's ok -- it > broke the casting for the control arm at the base > of the hub. So right now, it appears I need a > coilover assembly (which probably would be fine > otherwise if I'd had a detachable hub) and an > A-arm (which would have been MUCH worse if it > weren't already boxed and seriously reinforced). > Amazing there wasn't more damage (and you should > see one of the hits on the skid plate -- a full > 3-4" depression -- lucky it wasn't snug up against > anything). > > Scary thing is that this is the wheel that carried > the Terratrip probe. It looks ok, but was hanging > out there in the wind after the off. DUAL PROBES!!!!! And Brian I think you better wind the lower seats down before spinning off the top nut, take the preload off in other words, then rattle it with 1/2 air impact. Lift the upper spring seat off and look for the numbers containing maybe XDExxxxxxxx and something like 400/200. Look here: 
> > Cheers. > > ...Brian.... John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2006 01:04PM by john vanlandingham. |
Chris Martin Infallible Moderator Location: Toronto, Ontario Join Date: 01/15/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 567 Rally Car: E-85 powered Impreza |
Kirby Read Mod Moderator Location: Squamish BC Join Date: 01/14/2006 Age: Settling Down Posts: 52 Rally Car: 1981 Volvo 242 |
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