mk2 golf questions

Hello Folks,

I recently purchased an almost rally ready 1.8lt 16v mk2 Golf. Need some welds completed, sill bars and a harness bar welded. Anyone know of a reputable place in the nyc area? Preferrably a rally shop

What brakes do you guys use? Potterfields seem to be common i hear.
What wheels do you use? Can i still obtain 14 inch tires or is it biatch.
Any recommendations?
JVL? anything else besides a proper fd and diff? I would like to get my hands on a 4.23-4.25 fd out of a diesel box...

Thanks in advance,
Oscar

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

turoc Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hello Folks,
>
> I recently purchased an almost rally ready 1.8lt
> 16v mk2 Golf. Need some welds completed, sill bars
> and a harness bar welded. Anyone know of a
> reputable place in the nyc area? Preferrably a
> rally shop
>
> What brakes do you guys use? Potterfields seem to
> be common i hear.
> What wheels do you use? Can i still obtain 14 inch
> tires or is it biatch.
> Any recommendations?
> JVL? anything else besides a proper fd and diff? I
> would like to get my hands on a 4.23-4.25 fd out
> of a diesel box...
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Oscar

Oscar, I'd say go straight to 15s then you have room when you want to do the Corrado big discs.
As for the diesel final drive, they are sometimes available and I have a place that has 020 final drives and they have sometimes 4.46 which wouldn't be bad with the 15" wheels/tires.
I'll check and let you know.

What are you going to use for a diff?
And what does it have for suspenders????

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I would be interested in the JVAB stuff but the car currently has Group A bilsteins with eibachs and i dont wanna spend money unless i have to.
Dont wanna spend a shit load right away but am definitely interested in a clutch type Kaaz or Bildon/gemini unit unless i come across a lucrative deal for a peloqion or quaife


I ll have link of the car i purchased
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2971488


Like i said it needs some work but would at least get my foot in the door

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

turoc Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I would be interested in the JVAB stuff but the
> car currently has Group A bilsteins with eibachs
> and i dont wanna spend money unless i have to.
> Dont wanna spend a shit load right away but am
> definitely interested in a clutch type Kaaz or
> Bildon/gemini unit unless i come across a
> lucrative deal for a peloqion or quaife
>
>
> I ll have link of the car i purchased
>
>
>
> Like i said it needs some work but would at least
> get my foot in the door
OK but check the cage legality, it seems you will need some additions.
And do take a couple of photos of the front and rear suspension bwhen you have a chance so we can see what the "GpA" suspension actually is.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I ve been talking to Mark Bowers and Mustafa about this car before I bought it for a while and they have both been very helpful.Thanks guys. They pointed certain things out. Some of the welds are incomplete and do not completely wrap around. It seems like someone got lazy and did not remove any of the glass. I definitely need to weld those up. The seat brackets do not seem to be safe as they go all the way out to the rockers. The harnesses are tied to the strut tower bar which seem to make them unsafe. I am definetly gonna get a horizontal bar welded for the harnesses behind the seats. The cage does have all the gussets and diagonal bars, but than again the welds arent complete. As per Mark s suggestion I will weld up some sill bars. Possibly even some diagonals from main hoop to shock towers where everything meets. THe cage thickness checked out OK.Besides those the cage seems to be legal but I still need to check it out in every aspect after i register it and bring it home. It also needs harnesses since they are expired. Car has no log book and I will most likely be attending NASA events.

BTW Are tube frame seats OK? Dont remember reading anything specific in regards to that.
I should have pics in the next couple of days as the car is not nearby since I havent registered it yet.

Hey John,
I know vw s are notorious with rear stub axle failures have you got any solutions? Do I need to worry about that now?

Thanks again,
Oscar

---

rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

turoc Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I ve been talking to Mark Bowers and Mustafa about
> this car before I bought it for a while and they
> have both been very helpful.Thanks guys. They
> pointed certain things out.
Some of the welds are
> incomplete and do not completely wrap around. It
> seems like someone got lazy and did not remove any
> of the glass. I definitely need to weld those up.
>
yep. but youi need to see if the car is logbooked or if the nmain hoop is 1.75"

The seat brackets do not seem to be safe as they
> go all the way out to the rockers.

The harnesses
> are tied to the strut tower bar which seem to make them unsafe. I am definetly gonna get a horizontal
> bar welded for the harnesses behind the seats.

Here's a perhaps better solution since you need some bullsheet in the plane of the main hoop now and its just plain annoying to have the belt bar immediately behind, make all access to anything behind the seats a huge pain in the ass INCLUDING adjusting the harness.


and


The
> cage does have all the gussets and diagonal bars,
> but than again the welds arent complete. As per
> Mark s suggestion I will weld up some sill bars.
> Possibly even some diagonals from main hoop to
> shock towers where everything meets.

THe cage
> thickness checked out OK.Besides those the cage
> seems to be legal but I still need to check it out
> in every aspect after i register it and bring it
> home. It also needs harnesses since they are
> expired. Car has no log book and I will most
> likely be attending NASA events.
>
> BTW Are tube frame seats OK? Dont remember reading
> anything specific in regards to that.
> I should have pics in the next couple of days as
> the car is not nearby since I havent registered it
> yet.
>
> Hey John,
> I know vw s are notorious with rear stub axle
> failures have you got any solutions? Do I need to
> worry about that now?

yeah I have a pretty good plan work to the
'go out and pick the parts up and assemble.
very east, very cheap considering.

You should probably be thinking more about the actual rear beam POS thing.
And if the so called "GpA" struts are really just the same crap that everybody used to use and kill one or more corners every event.
>
> Thanks again,
> Oscar
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ozgur:

I use 14" tires on the VW teardrops. Advantages: less rolling weight, they're cheap, and they'll bend before my suspension will break. Disadvantages: small brakes, and they bend.

Hor final drives can be gotten from Autotech for about $800 a pop. They get them in in batches, so it may be a couple of month's wait. They generally get in a couple of 4.20s and one of each of the bigger ones, and then nothing for a few months.

A Peloquin or Quaife is better than no LSD, but if you want a clutch-type you'll have to get a KAAZ or Gripper or whatever Bildon's selling. I dunno what they've got. The original VWM Gemini diff is indestructable, so if they've got that, great. I've seen someone snap the pinion shafts of a Gripper and it'll require some diff case mods (grinding a bit to make it fit), so I'm not currently enthused with them. KAAZ's I don't know anything about.

The rear beam is noodly. I've bent two with serious crashes and I know someone who bends one at just about every event. You can reinforce it, but mostly it's just one of those facts-of-life things. Try not to hit stuff with it. And yeah, the rear stub axles develop hairline fractures around the base after awhile. They're pretty cheap to replace though.

HEY JOHN! If you have a rear stub axle solution, lemme know, kay?

---

Self-righteous douche canoe

hoche Wrote:
.
>
> HEY JOHN! If you have a rear stub axle solution,
> lemme know, kay?
>
Of course I have some solution, those spindles are absurdly wimpey.
And really guys I've seen the bent beam thing for 20 years, and have made a point looking up what VW themselves did to mitigate the problem.
That solution is simple enough, but like everything else I really need to have about 6-8 guys to make the kits really cheap.

Go agaitate on whatever forum has bunches of VW pervs who give a shit about driving hard and still having the wheels on the car and pointed more or less the same way the started. I betcha Brian "Wildert" in Danmark would be interested.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

count me in as one of the 6-8

But would your solution require ditching the gas tank?

---

-Jason

Hey Mack, heres some good reading for you: http://www.vwmotorsport.com/cataloge/Schmidt%20Motorsport%20Ex-Works%20Mk3%20Kit%20Rebuild.pdf
Lots of secksi perv pictures in there of a rebuild on a mk3 kit car. They have pics of the rear beam stuff in there.

And heres one of a beam on a car.

Retaining the stock gas tank.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2007 05:59PM by Carl S.

Carl S Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hey Mack, heres some good reading for you:
> Lots of secksi perv pictures in there of a rebuild
> on a mk3 kit car. They have pics of the rear beam
> stuff in there.
>
> And heres one of a beam on a car.
>
> Retaining the stock gas tank.
>
> www.DFLrally.com
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Jan 9, 2007 by Carl
> S.

Thanks, that has been my daily pron fix for the last couple weeks. I was under the impression that both the straight bar and the 2 triangulated bars would interfere with the gas tank - but then again I never got out the old ruler and checked myself.

It looks a little tight in the pic, I guess I'll have to make sure the mounts hang down low enough

---

-Jason



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2007 06:26PM by mack73.

Hehe - well, not really interested, as I don't see THAT heavy action. I don't do real rally the way you know it. Just too expensive for my taste to go with fuel cell when I don't have to, and the idea of building it with low enough mounts is not to my liking - especially since I run on tarmac and thus somewhat lowered compared to you gravel-guys.

But it can't be that expensive to fab up. 4 joints, a bit of DOM tubing, and a couple of brackets - come on... get out the angle grinder and the zheeee-zappper you should be in business.

Oh, by the way - the Mk 3 kit car you link to, is actually Danish. Restored by a Danish team and all :-).

---

Brgrds
Brian

Ok who wants how many 4.25 crownwheels and pinions?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

How many of my dollars would it take to get one? Which size 4th gear would it use?

Carl S Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How many of my dollars would it take to get one?
> Which size 4th gear would it use?
>
> www.DFLrally.com

No sure what the frieght would be but maybe 400 buck more or less depending on the frieght.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.