Volvo 7/9xx front suspension modifications

My 940 is a fun drive around, coast road eater, autocross car. I'm starting to learn how to drift, basically because Sonoma Raceway is 30mi from my house, I get a lot of seat time per event, and it's a fun and safe way to slide my car sideways without the fear of trees or bolders jumping out in front of me.

I've been dreaming about having more adjustment on my front suspension, as well as some quicker steering. This 3.5 turn lock to lock is just silly. I'm currently running poly bushing in front which seem fine... So Talk me out of this dream.

I figured I'd come over here and ask some people who regulary beat their suspensions on road surfaces that I wouldn't ever dream of driving on.

Found these: from Dannej's drift build thread
http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/archive/125922/large/960195_d44vcs.jpg


http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/arch...199_v86mrg.jpg


http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/archive/125922/large/960199_v86mrg.jpg


http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/archive/125922/large/960201_eignn6.jpg


amgvr4 over on turbobricks made these up, less adjustable but still with soilid mounts.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n74/amgvr4/TB%20build%20thread/_DSC0888.jpg


http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n74/amgvr4/TB%20build%20thread/_DSC0800.jpg


http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n74/amgvr4/TB%20build%20thread/_DSC0907.jpg



I know I need a ball joint spacer of some kind to get the gemoetry back to normal for my lowered car (I know, I know ), bump steer correction, and ackerman adjustment. As well as being able to get more caster, and camber.

So why shouldn't I want this? Anyone think I'm wasting my time to consider upgrades like these?

What ya think John?

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

I have a 1.5 to 1 steering quickener in the volvo. As some other guy here sais; single biggset improvement to the car. It actually makes the barge flickable. I'd go fo the 2 to 1 now that I know. I'll post some pictures this afternoon. Its a bit of a project, get an extra steering column from the yards and one of these http://www.jegs.com/p/Howe/Howe-Stealth-HD-Steering-Quickeners/1524890/10002/-1. Then get some angle iron, a hacksae and about 300 cups of coffee.

Hi Al,

I've only casually looked into a quickner. I figured I've got to lower the control arm and tierod to correct the funky geometry after lowering the car. Since I've got to mess with the location of the tie rod, I'd try to move it closer to the strut, shortening the radius of the arc that the tie rod travels makes the wheel move further per steering input.

I don't think it will be as dramatic as a 1.5:1 quickener but it will dramatically increase my steering angle.

I've been holding out for Ben to make a quicksteer rollcorrector for the 7/9xx like he's done for the 240.
http://www.kaplhenke.com/images/stories/products/240RCinstalled.jpg


I can only hold my brerath for so long.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

so much work just to have the look of a "lowered" car.
I am confuse.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

because John you won't get any bitches unless you're hellaflush





No I'm kidding. Fer'serious now...

When I finally get these coilovers installed with the raised strut tops I'm going to be raising my rideheight about an inch from where it's at now. I will only have lost 10-20mm of compression traval from the stock 940 (remember it's not one of the good Volvos John) but yes the Koni 8610-1437 only have 153mm stroke if memory serves the stock stroke is about 175mm so I'm losing some drop traval.
But all that is for a different discussion, one where will actually look up numbers and get measurements etc.

So disregarding the unfunctional lowered car 'look' . Isn't there a benefit to a stock ride height car with those heim joints and threaded adjusters?

Adjustable strut rod for more caster, and the adjustable control arm for added camber. As well as the increased steering angle achieved by moving the tie rod inward.

I know it's hard to overlook the fact that I lowered my car, but am I wrong in thinking that the list above is a good thing?

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

Quote
Magnum TE
because John you won't get any bitches unless you're hellaflush

Flush like the toilet?


So how mush is your car lowered? Those single-sheer extendo bolts look sketchy.

I think it may be about 2" lower than stock, but it's been years since I've seen/measured a stock 940.

you mean these single-sheer bolts
http://www1.garaget.org/gallery/archive/125922/large/960199_v86mrg.jpg

Yeah that seems a little sketch. But that Dannej guy beats on his car pretty hard. It's an amazing build, so I have to assume he knows what he's doing.

Here's some Volvo porn:
http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2529&start=195

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

I like it.

I've got an '85 "747 K-car" or whatever you want to call them. But I like the 7/9 better than the 240.

If I ever do anything to mine, I'd probably look into some things very like that, depending on how hard I was planning to drive it on tarmac.

But. keep a good close eye on those "extend-o-bolts". make sure they are tight. Check them every freakin' day. Don't forget. because that ONE time you do forget.....

because if one breaks, your spindle will turn freely, separately from where the tie rod is trying to make it go, and take your car whereever it wants to go, most likely not where you want it to go.

like say, driving in a well-mannered way within the speed limit on a left turn, when one bolt snaps, allowing the strut/spindle to turn and pull your car into the ditch. which snaps off the other bolt, allowing the whole strut/wheel/disc/caliper to start poking out of the car. which then snaps the top of the strut off at the threads. then the whole thing falls out of the car.

it sucks. Really bad.



--sarge

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

Quote
SgtRauksauff
I like it.

I've got an '85 "747 K-car" or whatever you want to call them. But I like the 7/9 better than the 240.

If I ever do anything to mine, I'd probably look into some things very like that, depending on how hard I was planning to drive it on tarmac.

But. keep a good close eye on those "extend-o-bolts". make sure they are tight. Check them every freakin' day. Don't forget. because that ONE time you do forget.....

because if one breaks, your spindle will turn freely, separately from where the tie rod is trying to make it go, and take your car whereever it wants to go, most likely not where you want it to go.

like say, driving in a well-mannered way within the speed limit on a left turn, when one bolt snaps, allowing the strut/spindle to turn and pull your car into the ditch. which snaps off the other bolt, allowing the whole strut/wheel/disc/caliper to start poking out of the car. which then snaps the top of the strut off at the threads. then the whole thing falls out of the car.

it sucks. Really bad.



--sarge

he'll be more careful next time.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
SgtRauksauff
it sucks. Really bad.
--sarge

I had those bolts come loose on my corolla once, it didn't end that badly for me but broken steering components can be scary.

Yea first night I drove at Sonoma Drift I blew out the lower ball joint on the driver's side. Car's been parked since. Just got the replacements today.


I've plenty of ways I risk my life everyday, I don't need to add questionable suspension links to that list.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

AMGVR4 is my brother and we've been making our own links for Datsun 510s, 240sx, and Volvo for a while. 5/8" rod ends are plenty beefy and have had no issues with the worst drift, street, and road course abuse. If initial torque is set right they don't come lose but you always want to nut and bolt before a hard driving session to be safe.

For tarmac replacing every suspension pivot with sphericals is well worth the time and money.

It removes any stiction and binding and makes small bump response 1000x better. It makes over sprung and damped low end shocks feel like a million bucks on small bumps.

For drift getting rid of old squishy bushings removes play and eliminates wheel hop and makes drifting pradicitable and throttle application more tractable.

For tarmac and drift aftermarket poly and ureathane bushings have a lot of stiction and bind compaired to sphericals and still have some give resulting in dynamic alignment changes under the higher loads that pavement generates.

Also, if you are running the car really low it is important to correct roll center. Typically the front needs more help than the back. You lose a bunch of roll resistance when the RC is really far below OEM. With a corrected roll center the geometry helps resist roll so you don't have to have as much spring and swaybar allowing giving better bump absorbtion and usually less change in toe curve when done right.

The poor mans way to aviod this is just be un-cool and run close to stock ride height. The better roll center usually trumps any gains from the all important lower center of gravity the road racers have to have.

That's my experience.

Hey Russell,

Have your bro reply to the PM I sent him on turbobricks. I was hoping he could make a set of links for my 940, at least let me know how much I need to be socking away so I can afford them.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

so Dannej is starting to market his roll corrector quick steer adjusters

http://www.dannejdrift.n.nu/distanskit700900

it seems pretty legit, although for +3000kr (~460 usd) it kinda stings.


I hate working the night shift, I have so much time to look at parts I can't afford.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

Looks to me like a $70 4ft chunk of 6061 flat bar in 1.25x3 from online metals, a hole saw, and a couple holes to drill, and you could make those. There are a few places to get those style heims for the tie rods