Volvo 940 Coil spring length, coil overs with Koni 8610-1437

I'll miss it when it's gone.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

How are you planning on fixing the bump steer? In the corolla/510 the Roll Center / Bump Steer Adjuster is a block that goes between the ball joint and strut housing.

With those knuckle-to-ear adapters, you could just make the bottom longer, thus keeping the LCA and tie-rod at the proper angle, eliminating most bumpsteer, couldn't you?

And you won't need an extra part that will rattle a bolt loose, then make your car drive directly into a curb, removing the entire wheel/knuckle/caliper/rotor/strut from the car.

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

How are you planning on fixing the bump steer? In the corolla/510 the Roll Center / Bump Steer Adjuster is a block that goes between the ball joint and strut housing.

With those knuckle-to-ear adapters, you could just make the bottom longer, thus keeping the LCA and tie-rod at the proper angle, eliminating most bumpsteer, couldn't you?

And you won't need an extra part that will rattle a bolt loose, then make your car drive directly into a curb, removing the entire wheel/knuckle/caliper/rotor/strut from the car.

just some info I found on the Koni you've got, just because:

8610-1437 Race
Stroke: 153mm (6.02in.)
Max Length: 540mm (21.26in.)
Min Length: 387mm (15.24in.)
Strut Body Length: 332mm (13.07in.)
Strut Body Diameter: 43.5mm (1.71in.)

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2012 02:36PM by SgtRauksauff.

Yea Jordan, The bump steer correction is hopefully in the works for a winter project. The spacer's and long bolts seem pretty sketch, but it's what people run so it's something I'm going to consider.

I made a thread on it not too long ago.
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,66990,phorum_session_v5=13753%3A9f43c1252cb2cff6194889aae7ececd3

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

I know the spacer works, for the most part. but it sucks. What I'm saying, is the knuckle-to-ear adapter has multiple functions:

1) converts the strut tubes to the ear type, making replacement/repair much easier and less expensive.
2) moves the strut tube away from the tire, so it gives you all the room you need.
3) with a longer bottom section, it negates the need for additional bumpsteer corrector. it essenially lowers the car down onto the struts, rather than raising the LCA higher into the car (which then needs something to correct it.)
4) If you really wanted to, you could make the knuckle-to-ear adapter with another hole in it, and mount a tie rod to that as well, to get more steering angle.

(unless I'm just thinking wrongly... ) But if John made the ones before for $35 each, with the increase in metal prices, maybe only $100 bucks for both, and it'll save time, energy, and wierd broken shit...



But I could be wrong, it's been known to happen. I once thought that i'd have an awesome rally car in a two-year span, and I haven't even worked on it in earnest even once. that was like 5 years ago.

--sarge

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

So I went ahead and did the install of the weld in strut tops and coil overs this weekend.

This is the post I made for Nathan who made the plates, it's kinda a general how to thread.

Enjoy:

From:
http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=1280

So I finally get my trans issues ironed out, took a small break and now I got back on the horse with this Caster/Camber plate coil over install.

The install went very smoothly. The longest part was me doing the RnR of the strut assemblies. It was a full +8hr day. The measure/mark/cut/test fit/weld took about 3-4hrs

I did not shorten my strut housings. I'm using Koni 8610-1437RACE inserts sourced from Kaplhenke. A 3.5" section of 2" DOM tubing dropped into the bottom of the strut tube to fit the shorter inserts.


Here's the highlights: Unfortunately no pics of me or my beard :-/

I love these plates and how adding caster and camber with stiffer front springs has changed the handling characteristics of my car. I already had some cracking around the bolt holes in my factory tower so it was time to ditch it for a heavy duty solution.


I bead blasted and primed the plates. I'm sure everyone knows by now that Nathan's an amazing welder... well here's another reminder- nice!
The prototypes I got needed a little clean up on the caster adjustment slots. I used a dremel tool, in 5min they were squared up and the plates slide easy through the adjustment slot.



After pulling the strut assemblies I lined up the plates and marked the outline.



Measured a few places from the fender line of the car to match left and right. I took about 3-4 key measurements basically where the lines intersected the bumps on the strut tower.





Once I was satisfied with how they lined up we got to cutting. Well I say "we" but I really mean my friend Josh, who's a very skilled fabricator and welder.



No turning back now. He left the line (to not make the hole too big) and had to do a little grinding with a flap disk to get the fit just right.



Well deserved fudge-sickle break.



One side tacked on for a test fit.



To test how high we needed to mount the plates we installed a strut assembly and put a jack under it. The purpose of this was 2 fold. 1: to get a cool pic of the wheel hella-sunk. 2: to make sure there is clearance with the hood and the top of the strut, and to see if there's enough compression travel... plenty

Not even on the bump stop



Once satisfied, we measured the height of the tacked on side, matched the other and Josh went to work.


Action welding shot


Action welding shot



Some nice wire feed work.



I did a quick wire brush and scuffed it with sand paper and laid some paint on it.



Here is the assembled strut



Shot from underneath. It's just a little too low for me, there's about 2" of upward adjustment, but then I'm possibly going to run into coil bind. I should have gone with a 10" long spring.



I know it's a sexy height, but I want it a little higher. The angle on the control arms is pretty poor (someday we will get rollcorrectors for the 7/9xx).






The height is good, real close to where it was on the oil ipd springs, still a bit low. I've got about 1.5" of upward adjustment, I can really see how a 10" spring would work a lot better. Lower the adjuster to get the coil bind to take place in the adjuster section and not where the strut insert is working. I'll see about getting a 10" 400# to replace the 7

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

Nice! Ballsy custom chop!

yeah just to note, the 7" spring was too short. I'm hitting coil bind pretty bad under dynamic loads, like braking hard over a bump, or cornering hard and hitting a bump.

So I'm going to go measure again, I can for sure run a 10" spring which give me another 2" of working compression, but I may be able to fit a longer spring we shall see.

I autocrossed it 2 weekends now, and it's just night and day better. No nose dives under braking, slalom no longer has disasterous weight transfers. I still need to get it aligned, but I have already backed the camber down a couple degs because I lost too much braking.


More pics of the finished product.





This is the final ride height:


Adjusters are all the way up, so I got room for longer springs
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr191/Magnumte/Volvo/Goldie/Suspension/IMG_0730.jpg

not much more room, tire clearence is tight. I may need to run a thicker spacer.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr191/Magnumte/Volvo/Goldie/Suspension/IMG_0729.jpg

Thanks very much for your ideas and comments. The car is getting very close to what I want it to be, and that's just a really great feeling.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

I really wanna see the car with some bbs LM reps or similar on it.... and a good pic with smoke coming off the tires!

Ask and ye shall receive:




\Pics of my first drife event, I was flailling bad, but It was still fun. Those pics were taken moments before I went the rest of the way around.

I'm hoping to get some more pics of the Trackmasters Racing autocross from last weekend. I was doing a lot of sliding there.

Besides I thought the dust up picture was a prefered pic for this forum

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.