Lost Strut Bolt

I can't be sure, as I didn't see a bolt or nut anywhere.

The only other thing I could think of to send me straight off is locking brakes up. I don't think I was on the brakes on the exit there, but I suppose it's possible.

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ofensus
I can't be sure, as I didn't see a bolt or nut anywhere.

The only other thing I could think of to send me straight off is locking brakes up. I don't think I was on the brakes on the exit there, but I suppose it's possible.

I just looked at the vid. You didn't hit anything hard enough to shear and bolt worth a damn but then I saw "Gooie Metro 1,0"
Are those bolts M12?
If they are maybe grab some VW Golf I or II bolts. They're good.

I say it fell out, not sheared... unless it got loose first, then shear off is possible.

That was an easy LOOKING off, didya damage anything?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

We hit a rock on the right/center of the lower radiator support. It was about 8 feet from the road edge. Bent the radiator support back about 3 inches, and tore the tiny tack welds off right side of the support.

The rock was a rectangular prism, about 2 feet long x 2 feet wide x 8 inches tall. Definitely seemed to be what did the bending and bumper punching, all of which was in the center + right side.

Bolt was missing from lower position on left side front shock. Neither control arm looked bent or ripped or even scratched.

We raced 4 stages on friday + 3 hours of transits. This was the 2nd stage the next day. We hadn't checked torques on anything besides the lug nuts in service, or after the Friday rally.

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Doivi Clarkinen
Loctite is your friend.

This requires a caveat, Loctite is good but if the surface(s) are not dirt and oil free its pointless to put it on. With a can of brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner it works well.

Also note that lock nuts (nylon ring) are good options IF they are not taken on and off and not used in a high heat cycle environment.

Anti-sieze is your friend. I go through ALLOT of it every year. A few years ago I went with the loctite stick type. Easy to throw in a bag or toolbox and apply when assembling.

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Intercom and electronics dude. www.zerodegreec.ca

John, I am pretty sure they are M12, but don't have one in my hands to measure till tonight. Will buy VW ones since they're locking if so.

A few thoughts:

Replacing bolts occasionally is a good idea because people add anti seize and then dial in a few extra pound feet of torque.

Almost all torque specs on a car are for clean dry threads.

A stretched bolt will not hold its torque.

Nylon lock nuts work well if they are the correct grade and are not worn out.

Loctite has a new recipe that does not require primer and is oil tolerant.

---

Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

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Rallymech
A few thoughts:

Replacing bolts occasionally is a good idea because people add anti seize and then dial in a few extra pound feet of torque.

Almost all torque specs on a car are for clean dry threads.

A stretched bolt will not hold its torque.

Nylon lock nuts work well if they are the correct grade and are not worn out.

Loctite has a new recipe that does not require primer and is oil tolerant.

Robert, careful!
ARP who makes a pretty good business selling fasteners says that it is the stretch that keeps a bolt tight so saying it that way could be taken to mean something you don't mean to say. A bolt way over torqued which has elongated and takes a set---is "stretched" past the yield strength---and the bolt has "given' some---that won't stay tight, but I seriously doubt if anybody is over torquing a decent fine thread M12 like what VW and very likely Japonaise M12 strut bolts are.

Nylocs can be "rebuilt" with this:


But only if it's the right color, naturally
Just a little head to re-soften the nylon, it assumes its previous properits as soon as it stiffens.
Works great on soem odd-ball shit like the big 41mm AF spindle nuts on Xratties.

And I really don't know all cars, but the ones I know often specify clean oiled threads....some even admonishing a drop or so under the bolt head...

Accurate torquing is pretty hard when there's galling and binding occurring on the threads.
Those Mirlees-Blackstone V20 80 valve twin turbo 10,500 HP diesels I worked one where we angle torque the heads with a 150:1 reducer and a 1" drive air impact specified a soooooooper expensive copper based anti-seize on threads and under the washer and nut head.. I think somebody was getting kickbacks for a retirement fund at the cost of that shit.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.