911 Carrera RallyCross Project

We finally sourced a donor for our RallyCross project car, a nice 84 911 Carrera with 100K on the clock. Though we haven't receievd the car yet it is supposedly in great mechanical condition with just a few minor cosmetic defects. Sounds perfect.

The plan is to campaign the car in Detroit SCCA Rallycross program while slowly developing it into a dirt monster. The Detroit program runs yea-round so this car is going to see plenty of snow and ice as well as dirt. To help with development we'll also throw the car at some local autocrosses and track days but the main focus is RallyCross. We have been competing with our Subaru Ouback since the program began some six years ago so it's time for a new challenge. As we are fairly new to the marque we will be asking lots of questions on this forum to aid in the development so brace yourself for some pretty dumb ones.

Here's some pictures of the car from the eBay ad:









and what inspires us:



and one of the car it is replacing:




The first event is December 8th so, assuming the thing runs when it gets here we will have a bit of mad prep to do. Because of the specs of the BRAID rally wheels we will but running it is already out of Stock class and into Prepared where, coincidentally, it will be up against a couple of 944s. Top of the list is to get some snow tires mounted to the wheels and slap those on, then some number panels and hopefull try to lift it. Stupid question #1: can one easily lift a 911 by indexing the torsion bars? An inch would be nice but anything would help as we are afarid of ripping the front spoiler off at stock ride height. We may get away with removing the lip spoiler beforehand though that is technically illegal. I dont think the competiton will mind unless we beat them.

We also have to add an AC compressor to be within the Prepared rules. Apparantly one of the previous owners removed the AC from the car so we might be looking for a used broken unit if anyone has one. Of course, if we can prove it was a factory delete then we can run without it.

Bookmark this thread for more stupid questions and a blizzard of updates.

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Ha. That'll be fun.
You should chat with Shawn Washburn, owner at Washburn Motorsports in Raleigh, NC. He is from Burlington and grew up with rallying like every straight male from Burlington, VT I have ever known. He built some rally cars and hill climb cars and does a bunch of Porsche classic stuff as his main business these days I think.

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Grant Hughes

I should do that, thanks.

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Direct from the manual for the rear:

If the torsion bar is reset by one spline at its inner end, a 9°change is obtained. If the radius arm is reset by one spline at the outer end of the torsion bar, a change of 8-3/20 °is obtained. This arrangement allows a change of 5/6 °if the torsion bar and radius arm are positioned towards each other.



Install torsion bar into transverse tube.
Install radius arm onto outer end of splines.
Position a bubble protractor on the lower edge of the door sill, Fig. 6.
Adjust so that the bubble is in the center of the glass tube.
Position protractor on free hanging radius arm and note arm inclination, Fig. 7.
Adjust arm inclination if necessary.

That being said, I have lowered a few VW's with torsion bar position changes. You should try raising the adjusters in the front, but I think the rear is fixed position, so a bar change will be necessary

Quote
phlat65
Direct from the manual for the rear:

If the torsion bar is reset by one spline at its inner end, a 9°change is obtained. If the radius arm is reset by one spline at the outer end of the torsion bar, a change of 8-3/20 °is obtained. This arrangement allows a change of 5/6 °if the torsion bar and radius arm are positioned towards each other.



Install torsion bar into transverse tube.
Install radius arm onto outer end of splines.
Position a bubble protractor on the lower edge of the door sill, Fig. 6.
Adjust so that the bubble is in the center of the glass tube.
Position protractor on free hanging radius arm and note arm inclination, Fig. 7.
Adjust arm inclination if necessary.

That being said, I have lowered a few VW's with torsion bar position changes. You should try raising the adjusters in the front, but I think the rear is fixed position, so a bar change will be necessary

Thanks. Sounds complicated.

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

What did you guys pay for that car if you don't mind me asking? Here in the PNW a car like that would set you back at least 12K. Business must be good! They are great cars to drive. Enjoy!

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Robert.

"You are way too normal to be on Rally Anarchy." Eddie Fiorelli.

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Rallymech
What did you guys pay for that car if you don't mind me asking? Here in the PNW a car like that would set you back at least 12K. Business must be good! They are great cars to drive. Enjoy!

Yes, about that.

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Quote
BRAIDusa
Thanks. Sounds complicated.

It isn't complicated, been done a few times with my beetle. Just reindex the rear so you get more preload on the bar.

Sheesh, Paul! You get an ur-quattro to rub with a diaper and a 911 to rallycross.

I like your style

That series is my favorite 911. They're still fairly true to the originals while having such niceties as fuel injection and galvanized bodies and fairly tough drivetrains. I can't wait to see how this one works out for you.

Depending on the condition of the RX-7, I may be joining you in PR.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2012 06:37PM by Pete.

Quote
Pete
Sheesh, Paul! You get an ur-quattro to rub with a diaper and a 911 to rallycross.

I like your style

That series is my favorite 911. They're still fairly true to the originals while having such niceties as fuel injection and galvanized bodies and fairly tough drivetrains. I can't wait to see how this one works out for you.

Depending on the condition of the RX-7, I may be joining you in PR.

What can I say, I'm odd.

Hope to see you out there Pete.

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Woke up to a nice shiny (not) new car in my drive. Time to check it over and take it for a test drive.





Uh oh! Everything was looking good till we took a 90 right at a light. There was a loud BANG from the rear. We pulled over and found the rear suspension collapsed! The left a little more than the right. Great. Now I have another broken car.






We only put 3 miles on it before this happened and were going really slow the whole way .



What do you think, broke a torsion bar?

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Could this have been a contributing factor?

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Quote
BRAIDusa

Think of it as a bonus - all the cool kids are spending $$$$$ to make their porsches look like this, and yours did it for free!

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Quote
Aaron Luptak


Think of it as a bonus - all the cool kids are spending $$$$$ to make their porsches look like this, and yours did it for free!

Maybe but I wanted to lift mine

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Paul Eddleston
BRAID Wheels USA www.BRAIDUSA.com
Team Illuminata Motorsport www.teamilluminata.com

Quote
Aaron Luptak

Quote
BRAIDusa

Think of it as a bonus - all the cool kids are spending $$$$$ to make their Porsches look like this, and yours did it for free!

Always look on the bright side of life....

Such a catchy tune.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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