JVAB's own 50mm Soooper Bitchin Suspenders

John,

Will these upper mounts work with your 50s?

http://www.compbrake.com/cars/audi/90/.html

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MattZig
I'm not talking about the springs or insides being too stiff. You completley missed the point. What's happening is the shock bodies are literally sticking. You can see this when you press down on the bumper hard, it'll load up and then jolt. They don't slide freely - they're sticking. Every one is doing this, and they didn't do it to begin with. Only after driving about 200 miles. Now every corner is sticking like crazy and not sliding free. Did I use too much grease? Wrong grease? What's your method of greasing them?

when they start to stick is usually when I will service. 200 miles seems a bit short if they are just around town miles, they'll also stick a little when they get hot. regreasing is easy, linky to basic idea. I use a rag on a stick to get most of the grease out and then a little brake cleaner on the bushings. A cheapo plastic ruler to apply the grease, it doesn't really take much.

http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.php?/topic/93476-diy-regreasing-inverted-struts/

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

this piccie is the key thing, fill the gap


any decent grease. I used to use moly-grease, the stuff used in your CV joints cause it is intended for very high pressure applications, but reports from the field seemed to indicate that it needed more frequent re-greasing. So now I use thicker grease for wheel bearings..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
deaner
John,

Will these upper mounts work with your 50s?

http://www.compbrake.com/cars/audi/90/.html

Sure but a) they cost more than my Ford ones and b) they use the stock skinny pin at the top of the strut while I make the pin much much stronger

Here look at this:


Thats "Group N" (stock) and Group A...stock bends. The GpA is a nice fat 20mm and that's hundreds of times stronger than the all threaded version..

So why pay more for a weaker design?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

No I totally get it. I didn't know what the top pins were like on the 50s. Was browsing around and came across those uppers so I figured I'd ask. Do you make your own ford uppers?

Excited to see some pics from AJ....

Oh was going to ask to, how hard would it be to use camber plates instead of the solid, fixed top mounts? I'm thinking along the lines of being able to swap road/drift uprights and whatnot. I can make my own coilovers for pretty cheap, plus it'd be nice to have a little bit of adjustability on tarmac.

Quote
deaner
Oh was going to ask to, how hard would it be to use camber plates instead of the solid, fixed top mounts? I'm thinking along the lines of being able to swap road/drift uprights and whatnot. I can make my own coilovers for pretty cheap, plus it'd be nice to have a little bit of adjustability on tarmac.

You can slide some adjuster sleeves over pretty cheap but you cannot make something worth a damn using cheesy OEM tubes and no guide bushings inside the tubes. Look at the above piccie, there's 2 bushings spaced some distance apart.
Many normal bushes are maybe 20mm long, I make mine about 38mm long, more bush means reduced unit loading and that means the suspension moves easier when subjected to big loads from cornering, and braking, or cornering and braking.
Also the steering arms are just below the spring seats and the springs are some monster diameter.

How are you going to slide the sleeves past the spring seats? And past the steering arms?

Then, what inserts of what valving , what travel and what overall length are you going to use?
Stock stuff is around 160mm travel...that is nice for a smooth autobahn but not for a gravel car...
190 to 210mm is more like it... Now, whwre are you going to get spring travel with the steering arm sticking out way up high?

Making your own is easier said than done. The guy out here in WA a Czech guy with an old Quattro said he bends between 1 and 3 of the cheesoid inserts he uses....I guess that's better to constantly feed in $165 inserts at the rate of 1 to 3---and live with bent junk than buckle down and get something bigger and stronger.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I apologize John, I should have made it clear, I can make tarmac coilovers for pretty cheap. Non rally/hard abuse coilovers. Haha. I want to be able to eventually have 2 completely different setups where I can just swap out uprights. Rally setup and a stiffer drift setup.

Quote
deaner
I apologize John, I should have made it clear, I can make tarmac coilovers for pretty cheap. Non rally/hard abuse coilovers. Haha. I want to be able to eventually have 2 completely different setups where I can just swap out uprights. Rally setup and a stiffer drift setup.

You may be very surprised how well a good rally set up works for driftie stuff.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

How well do yours run low? I have no clue what the happy place is on yours lol. Any thoughts on camber plates?

Camber plates- Lots of extra cut and weld work.

Drift suspension... weekend project to cut off old lower seats, and shorten steering arm.

Get the car on stage first.

Last set of coilovers I made took like 8-10hrs. Granted at a casual pace and I didn't have to make spring perches. Not worried.

Haven't done weld in camber plates yet but I'm not too worried. Its just cutting and welding.

Should have worded my question to john along the lines of, "do the bilstein 50mm bump suckers you use have an odd ball pin size, making running common sized camber plates a PITA?" I've never held one in my hands, done measurements or compared side by side to a factory dampener. I have no clue if anything is close to being a "stock" dimension or if everything is odd ball beefed up sizes.


The car won't touch a stage for another 2 years. I gave myself 2+ years, to aid in not skimping on design things like this one. More than likely I'll be running drift events next summer(depending on time and work) on some homemade stiff bouncy things I put together at home. Thus the sorting logistics/ideas right now before moving forward on a plan.

And when the hell are you going to post pictures?! You get off to.paint yet?

yes it's painted. Don't tell John, but the pin on the struts I pulled out for larger than the pins on the struts he sent me I hate to offend him with somebody else's larger pin.

Quote
deaner
Last set of coilovers I made took like 8-10hrs. Granted at a casual pace and I didn't have to make spring perches. Not worried.

Haven't done weld in camber plates yet but I'm not too worried. Its just cutting and welding.

Should have worded my question to john along the lines of, "do the bilstein 50mm bump suckers you use have an odd ball pin size, making running common sized camber plates a PITA?" I've never held one in my hands, done measurements or compared side by side to a factory dampener. I have no clue if anything is close to being a "stock" dimension or if everything is odd ball beefed up sizes.


The car won't touch a stage for another 2 years. I gave myself 2+ years, to aid in not skimping on design things like this one. More than likely I'll be running drift events next summer(depending on time and work) on some homemade stiff bouncy things I put together at home. Thus the sorting logistics/ideas right now before moving forward on a plan.

And when the hell are you going to post pictures?! You get off to.paint yet?

Not following you too well. I don't screw with cheesy off the shelf camber plates cause every one I've seen is wretched shit with microscopic bearing sizes--obviously made for faggots to mince around in a parking lot at maybe a whopping 35 mph for a grueling 45 seconds.

ALL the things I make come with an unfinished bar which is 22 to 25mm x 110mm and I machine that to whatever is needed---sometimes after some convincing that what is needed for hard usage is different from whatever junk 23 cent part the OEMs decided was good to go get groceries with.

the whole camber thing is way way over beaten to death...If guys would ruin their cars with idiot wide wheels, and "lowering" them and ruin the original geometry, they would have to bore everybody to death discussing inadequate band aids to try and fix what they wrecked for a silly look.

Like spring rates and tubocharger sizing, wheel width and tire width is almost invariably a case of "Nothing exceeds like excess" with people using rates and sizes significantly in excess of the same cars in EM Touring Car Championship or WRC tarmac cars...
One word is my usual response to this stuff "Oi"--usually "Oi Oi OI!"

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2013 01:38AM by john vanlandingham.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
deaner
Last set of coilovers I made took like 8-10hrs. Granted at a casual pace and I didn't have to make spring perches. Not worried.

Haven't done weld in camber plates yet but I'm not too worried. Its just cutting and welding.

Should have worded my question to john along the lines of, "do the bilstein 50mm bump suckers you use have an odd ball pin size, making running common sized camber plates a PITA?" I've never held one in my hands, done measurements or compared side by side to a factory dampener. I have no clue if anything is close to being a "stock" dimension or if everything is odd ball beefed up sizes.


The car won't touch a stage for another 2 years. I gave myself 2+ years, to aid in not skimping on design things like this one. More than likely I'll be running drift events next summer(depending on time and work) on some homemade stiff bouncy things I put together at home. Thus the sorting logistics/ideas right now before moving forward on a plan.

And when the hell are you going to post pictures?! You get off to.paint yet?

Not following you too well. I don't screw with cheesy off the shelf camber plates cause every one I've seen is wretched shit with microscopic bearing sizes--obviously made for faggots to mince around in a parking lot at maybe a whopping 35 mph for a grueling 45 seconds.

ALL the things I make come with an unfinished bar which is 22 to 25mm x 110mm and I machine that to whatever is needed---sometimes after some convincing that what is needed for hard usage is different from whatever junk 23 cent part the OEMs decided was good to go get groceries with.

the whole camber thing is way way over beaten to death...If guys would ruin their cars with idiot wide wheels, and "lowering" them and ruin the original geometry, they would have to bore everybody to death discussing inadequate band aids to try and fix what they wrecked for a silly look.

Like spring ratyes and tubocharger sizing, wheel width and tire width is almost invariably a case of "Nothing exceeds like excess" with people using rates and sizes significantly in excess of the same cars in EM Touring Car Championship of WRC tarmac cars...
One word is my usual response to this stuff "Oi"--usually "Oi Oi OI!"

What is the diameter of the round thing that goes through the upper mount that you then put a nut onto. The strut top, pin, etc. IIRC most bilstein stuff is like 14mm or so? Again not positive about these big bastard 50mm stuff. I've never looked at them.

I'm not building a touring car or auto cross car. I could give 2 shits about wheel size or tire width. I'm not running some ungodly hip yo mad stance ya hurd? No static drops no aitlr bags and for fucks sake, no BBS RSs that I paid $1500 for just because some ass hat hipster spent 3 hours polishing and still thinks a factory wheel is dope yo.

I want to make a car turn that has no power, horrible weight distribution and no aftermarket support really in both sliding sideways on both gravel and tarmac.

Now I know I have to bury as much neg camber as I can just to post a pic of tucking some gravel tires....