Reinforcing VW control arms/subframe

I need to do this hub thing after nameless...

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-Tom
DemonRallyTeam | Fine Tuning | CTS Turbo & RP Turbos | RalleyTuned | JRM | Meister Autowerks
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I'll be bringing the brackets and hub assembly with me up to Nameless to show them around to you guys. I'll be crewing for Chris K in the Focus and helping out Max with the Rabbit. I'm 6'6, glasses, mid 20's. You can't miss me.
See you up there Tom.

I finally got everything mounted up and checked out. Everything clears just fine, and works as it should. I'll add up some install pics later on this evening. Widens each wheel out about 1/2-5/8in
The design I'm going with is the last screen shot on the previous page. It requires 2x 0.5in spacers to get the caliper aligned properly with the mk2/3 caliper and carrier. I could have made it all one piece, but then material costs go through the roof. After a careful look at the cost of material, I can make these for $85 a set with the required/non-stock hardware. You will have to re-drill your hubs, get the correct rotors, and get the caliper and carriers to fit (I will provide guidance and what not). I can make these for the mk4 carriers/calipers and 5X100 rotors as well (that is one option, not three!). So for all you smart people running 5-bolt setups, it's going to be a lot easier.
The price is for racers. I don't care if you're a rally or road racing person. If someone wants these to stance out their VW or do something non competitive, the price goes up to $120 a set. Think of it as a sponsorship deal.
So, who wants what and how many and what not. I'll make the chips start flying when I get enough orders to devour a 4' chunk of aluminum.

Once again, Price:
Racers: $85
Bros: $120

Cool deal. You should get orders for 20-30 pairs what with all the Weee Dubya Golves everywhere.
And as for ordering aluminum...been getting quotes today, shop till I drop bur got it down to under $2.50/lb....way better than Onlinemetals 4.80 sumpin!
7075 tho ugh!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Install picks: photobucketz.com

I didn't get a chance to show the caliper/carrier modifications. I'll take some pics when I do the other corner. Pretty simple, fresh grinding wheel on an angle grinder and 5mins is all you need.

Those things look sweet. Nice work!

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Dave Grenwis - DG Rally - www.dgrally.com

Yo Johnny Boy! What's the place where you found these sweet deals on recycled soda cans? Everywhere around here wants $30+ per foot of some 6061 (4in x 1.25in)
Online metals in currently coming in the cheapest at $140/ per 8ft section (not sure on shipping though).

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Robert Culbertson
Yo Johnny Boy! What's the place where you found these sweet deals on recycled soda cans? Everywhere around here wants $30+ per foot of some 6061 (4in x 1.25in)
Online metals in currently coming in the cheapest at $140/ per 8ft section (not sure on shipping though).

Awwwwwwww shit should stayed in better touch, just ordered in like $1680 of aluminum last week---came in for the bar stock at about $2.75/lb, and $2.40 for the 4" round.

Let me check....

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

We're converting our car over to the wider front control arms using Passat control arms. There seems to be a lot of misinformation out there regarding lengths of CVs and inner tie-rods.

Josh (and whoever else has done this), what are you using for CVs and tie-rods? The car has a mk2 subframe with a mk2 power rack. I'm not having too much luck with searching online for lengths of everything.

Thanks for any info guys.

We just use the mk3 tie rods and axles with the Passat arms.

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One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

I used MK3 axles and tie rods w/ my MK3 arms (same size as Passat, just not as well-engineered).

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Robert Culbertson
We're converting our car over to the wider front control arms using Passat control arms. There seems to be a lot of misinformation out there regarding lengths of CVs and inner tie-rods.

I don't imagine anyone sets out to misinform anyone. It is just that there are so many vehicles using a multitude of different driveshafts that it makes it extremely unlikely that any one individual will have every possible shaft to be able to strip them and measure them in a consistant fashion.
Especially when shafts may not be guaranteed to be original to the vehicle, and there is often only a few mm difference in lengths between various shafts. This makes it easy for errors to be created.
Checking your shaft plunge is in acceptable limits when it is installed in the car is always a good idea so you know what you normally and safely run with.

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Robert Culbertson
Josh (and whoever else has done this), what are you using for CVs and tie-rods? The car has a mk2 subframe with a mk2 power rack. I'm not having too much luck with searching online for lengths of everything.

Thanks for any info guys.

One thing to watch out for before swapping in different PAS tie rods is to compare the thread length of the new tie rod where it screws into the rack against the one being removed.
Some appear to have longer threads that bottom out in the rack before they seat and tighten correctly. Thus deforming the thread in the process and galling itself as you unscrew it.
These different thread lengths could be down to ZF and TRW racks being slightly different designs.
PAS type rod end is the one in the right of this pic.

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Disappointingly not yet a Jackass

id keep the mk2 arms and rods and just swap in the 2.0 axles and hubs/brakes. longer steel bends easier.

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danster

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Robert Culbertson

Checking your shaft plunge is in acceptable limits when it is installed in the car is always a good idea so you know what you normally and safely run with.

Can you expand on this a bit? I'm not sure what you are referring to. Thanks.

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Runamuck Rally

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BJosephD
id keep the mk2 arms and rods and just swap in the 2.0 axles and hubs/brakes. longer steel bends easier.

It does bend easier, but the Passat CA are a huge improvement over the mk2/3 golf arms. The main reason for this upgrade was to match the now wider rear track (and because the front was all bent anyways).

As far as inner tie rods go, I finally found a reference on rockauto. The MOOG parts list OAL which is extremely helpful. The TAW and ZF tie rods are about 20mm different in length, so I'll need to measure the control arm difference and then look for a tie rod that will take up the gap.

As far as CVs go, there are only a few that were offered in the US. Mk2, Mk3 & Passat (4-bolt, 1in longer), mk3 VR6 (5-bolt, 1in longer). At least that's what I found through rockauto and looking at year interchanges.