V-band for exhaust under car - good, bad?

Those look nice. You could make those easy to. Mine did rattle a bit after a couple of stages. At the last service we hit the joint with a hammer to tighten it up and all was good after that. I will say I wouldnt spend much time or money on exhaust it gets beat to hell fast. Mine is tucked up nice and tight and is still dented in spots after 1 rally.

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First rally 2013
Rally car type AWD subaru
Total rallies as driver 6
Total rally cars built 2
Total rally cars caged 3
Total rally cars repaired from offs 4
Total years racing exp other then rally 19 yrs
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I like V bands. I've had no issues with mine though our events aren't the roughest out there. I know most of my rally friends have used them as well.
Building rally exhaust out of anything but the cheapest mild steel is silly. Vbands are reuseable and at least the ones I use would be nearly impossible to damage so bad that they were not.

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Grant Hughes

Quote
wildert
I was thinking something along these lines: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Exhaust-Link-2-Tags-S-S-Rivets-weld-on-tag-race-Joint-slip-/221185710127?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337fb2182f

Only without the middle section - just making the tags overlap, and a bolt instead of a rivet.

Exactly. I use some tabs from AA Manufacturing which cost a couple of dollars and change

Engine
Motor Mounts, Drive Shaft Loops, Flanges, Header Tabs

Item Details
Header Tab Item Name:
Header Tab
Item #:
AA-243-A
Price/ea:
$2.57
$2.12 (100 - 9999)

1/4" Holes
.085" Steel
2.5" Long
Pair (2 pcs) with Nut & Bolt

http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/item.aspx?itemid=177

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Slip on, or like what Brian and John posted are cool idea.

I'm using V-bands on the Civic... No problems so far, have removed it once our twice.

Yes remember that rally exhaust is a consumable just like brake pads/clutch ect...
Just make it smart/cheap and easy to fix/replace.
Becuse you will.
Todd

Yep if its under the car it's gonna get hammered,
Espeically if like on the Mighty Saab 96 there is no tunnel so it's hanging out in the breeze..

BUT!
You can make it last longer with just a moments reflection or 2..
I used to split some spare raw exhaust tubing in half longways and tack it on just the underside for a little armor... Then on any face not N/S ...like where my exhaust does a 45 outwards to route up into pass side rear wheel arch for the muffler, I'd weld on sections of L angle as a skid..
Anything NOT N/S is going to see more rocks, and it is probably going get hammered.. As in hammered SHUT....

Also used some L welded to the front of the downpipe(s) where I have a joint in the header Y part...done to protect the bolted flange

Motors like a relatively sound exhaust

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Near side?
Not straight?

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Grant Hughes

Quote
NoCoast
Near side?
Not straight?

Norf/souf oaf.
Engine sits N/S, or E/W but the exhaust goes down centerline norf/souf..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Just make sure you cover up the threads and keep the whole latch up. I used a bit of spliced fuel return line and then use a coolant hose clamp around it to keep it tight.

Mine's in a shitty way, can't get access to it if I put it up top so I need to have it on the bottom. I would keep it the same but look at a way of tucking them out from under the car if possible.

I haven't seen band clamps mentioned, is there any disadvantage besides the limited number of times they can be reused? In my experience they kinda work like shrink wrap on the pipe (metal stretch) and hold slip joints in position nicely

For super heavy duty stainless V-Bands you can get "13MHP" clamps in in 2.5" and 3" from hydraulics shops special order (Parker products part number link).

Like these: http://cole-tech.com/13MHP-HIGH-PRESSURE-BOLTED-CLAMP.html



These are used for high volume food grade fluid transfer and use a O ring and the V-Band style fittings for a high pressure sealed joint.

The 13MHP bands are super industructable thick cast 304 stainless. The band will never break but the coupling will develop play over time and leak if the joint is flexed frequently.

They are heavy and about the same cost as normal v bands.

Here is a part number reference for the other single bolt hinge style clamps if you fancy those more.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/15/2013 12:22PM by Russell OConnell.

I like those....

Getting them to Denmark might not be cost effective though.

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Brgrds
Brian

Quote
corax
I haven't seen band clamps mentioned, is there any disadvantage besides the limited number of times they can be reused? In my experience they kinda work like shrink wrap on the pipe (metal stretch) and hold slip joints in position nicely

I used to use these. The only problem is that vibration and flex WILL stretch the clamp over time, and then it's loose. The only time this doesn't happen is when the fit is tight/pipes are corroded enough that you'd don't need a clamp anyway.

And the metal's too thin to easily tackweld into place.

I'm really liking the idea of the labryinth slip-fit/eyelet method. Looks easy enough to make, to boot, if you have access to a hydraulic pipe expander.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/28/2013 07:14AM by Pete.