Volvo 240 Rally build

Ok should probably update this. I realize it aint much but hey better than nothing right?

Pulled dash and heater core, removed AC, removed seat pedestal, cleaned up most of the sound deadening, fixed all rust with one exception. Started a wee bit of seam welding, removed the wires from the harness that I won't need. Did this via depinning it so on the very likely chance that I screwed something up I can put it back the same.

Also acquired a supra rear diff for the lsd and a scorpio steering rack.

Borrowed a tubing bender from Pete (THANKYOU) and will hopefully have 120ft of tubing at my place to start the cage in the next day or two. Goal is to have the car driveable (not stage ready) for jan 18th. This is when ice racing starts at ghost lake. Otherwise I will have to use the SILVER NOT BLUE sub-a-rat... FAWWWWKK.

more crap

and yet more crap. guess I should mention that I cut out the e brake mount out of the seat pedestal and welded it to the floor.

Its not much to show but for me to be able to take this photo was satisfying. Not tacked in yet, need to fit it a bit better.

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Tree18is
maybe while your patching sheetmetal I know those cars have big pig cheeks in the back. Possibly bob the rear end up to get some ground clearance.

In the Volvo world those are oafish-ally known as "butt-cheeks"..
I have already warned him that they get destroyed by rock spray and to carve them off and armor the area..

With long travel in the rear and relatively soft springs the car will squat and you're right---they are just asking to die.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

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Rock On, Brotha!

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john vanlandingham

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Tree18is
maybe while your patching sheetmetal I know those cars have big pig cheeks in the back. Possibly bob the rear end up to get some ground clearance.

In the Volvo world those are oafish-ally known as "butt-cheeks"..
I have already warned him that they get destroyed by rock spray and to carve them off and armor the area..

With long travel in the rear and relatively soft springs the car will squat and you're right---they are just asking to die.

Im sure they will eventually pound themselves flat!

I do remember you talking about this, its on the list but right now in my view at least there are other things that take priority over that job.

Looks good! If you are 6' tall or more, consider tilting the cage back 4-6" at the top.

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alkun
Looks good! If you are 6' tall or more, consider tilting the cage back 4-6" at the top.

Somewhere I read you giving the advice to put the mainhoop as far back as possible. I took this advice into consideration, so thank you.
After looking at some main hoop locations in other cars being about 3-4 inches forward of where I put it I saw what you meant when I went to mock up the seats, there wouldn't have been much clearance based on eyeballing it.

I looked at Pat Darrows main hoop locations and decided not to because I didn't want to cut holes in the floor to drop it down. I went for what I did here because I can break the tack welds holding in the boxes and drop the cage down to weld it without cutting holes.

As far as clearance I am about 5'11 and after mocking up the seats room wasn't a concern... I personally like to be close to the steering wheel so maybe im an exception.

However I still wish I went with what Pat did. It would have been far simpler to fabricate. I have far to many hours into those boxes in order to get them to fit properly. Also now that I think about it cutting a hole in the floor really doesn't concern me. Learn from it for the next one!

I am building Pats Cage, I didn't cut holes in the floor to drop the cage down, the whole thing would just slide off the cage feet and forward off the rear seat shelf and then I had about a foot of room to weld the top of the tubes.

The cage feet I made took a good amount of time also

Ohh, thanks for the input Blake. I thought about this but didn't think it would be possible with the a pillar bars being relatively snug. Bugger, cause I had the same feet you made mocked up in cardboard as well as what I have here, I decided to go with this for previously mentioned reasons. Oh well good knowledge to have for the future, because being my first car this thing will inevitably die. Also what I got here should work just fine so i'm not to concerned.

No worries Eric, you're progress looks good, if you have any questions I'm glad to answer them.

Yayyyy the gearset isn't grenaded... cause based on the state of this thing I thought it might be. Bearings are shot. Just need to find a case and see if I can get a non world class rebuild kit through mopac. Small progress but moving forward.


EDIT: Hmmmm... I may have cocked up. Never mind getting a Non world class rebuild kit through mopac does anyone know where you can get them in general? Or do you have to order each part separately?

Double Edit: Figured I was being dumb... 105$ off ebay. Damn now I don't have an excuse to phone up gforce for a close ratio dog box.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2014 12:51AM by Eric Ewert.

First of all the half lateral's are not crooked, its the angle of the photo, give me a little credit.

Now the main reason for posting. Should I redo the transverse member? (bar running along the top of the windshield) If I redid it I would put a bend at either end of it to get it to contour the roof better. Fia art 253 doesn't say anything on if you can put a bend in it or not so not sure what I should do. It meets the requirements for the windscreen visibility area as of now i'm more concerned about helmet/head clearance.


Also maybe someone who's up on all the fia rules can answer a door bar question. I see everybody building there "X" style door bars with two bent bars as opposed to straight bars notched to fit together. I don't see anything wrong with building them with no bends and just notching them to fit, am I wrong?

The bent V came into popularity after a fatal crash in which had the massive internal injuries not killed him, the broken X that went through leg/femoral artery would have. 120MPH sideways into a tree though is hard for anyone to survive.
It does have double the bar at the junction as opposed to one. With a gusset they are not much different in my opinion. I like to minimize having to profile bars with 70 degree angles so if I do an X, I do bent V. I like headwing seats though so prefer non X door bars in most cases.

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Grant Hughes