Subie rear suspension questions

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john vanlandingham

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TronDD
Yeah, yeah, less thinking, more doing.

Haven't had time to try again. Getting home late. I have a MAP torch and a big hammer.

Tim.

PB Blaster and heat and Bronze or aluminum drift...that bolt is expensive and you mooosh over the end and it hain't comin out.

I have extra bolts lying around if you need one. They are a bitch. One I couldn't manage to get off (this is using actylene torch) while in the car so I pulled the whole suspension and finally got it off on the workbench.
And I agree with keeping the rubber. What do you want to give? The bushing or another more expensive part of the car?

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Don Kennedy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2013 11:01AM by imnotcrazy.

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Reamer
For rally I would maybe go with polly but I wouldnt go solid.

group N bushings are another option.

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

More questions...

I did get the long bolt out on one side but didn't do the other side because I think I need to do this stuff first:

How do I back the adjuster off in the drum brakes so I can get the drum off? I can't turn it the other way, is there a catch I need to release? I can't see it through the tiny friggin' window.

How do I get the e-brake cable off and out of the way? Do I have to do it from the inside after I get the drum off?

Also, anyone run the group N top mounts? The bearing is exposed on the top side. The hell? Am I supposed to have a washer or something that covers the greasy balls up?

Tim.

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TronDD
More questions...

I did get the long bolt out on one side but didn't do the other side because I think I need to do this stuff first:

How do I back the adjuster off in the drum brakes so I can get the drum off? I can't turn it the other way, is there a catch I need to release? I can't see it through the tiny friggin' window.

How do I get the e-brake cable off and out of the way? Do I have to do it from the inside after I get the drum off?

Also, anyone run the group N top mounts? The bearing is exposed on the top side. The hell? Am I supposed to have a washer or something that covers the greasy balls up?

Tim.

Can't help on the other stuff but up front the stock top mounts have a cute rubber plug that pokes in...Since "GropeN" allows for RUBBER change, the other dims oughtter be same, visit junk yard---walk in, walk out, problem solved.

Or a plastic bottle cap pounded in place..Or fancys Hose Fitting plugs..
Or a spud carved up..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Found a video on youtube that shows me where everything is inside the brakes. Just have to get my surgeon hands going to fish around through the little hole and work the mechanisms.

Free youtube video: 1
Chiltons that charges money and simply says "Loosen adjuster" and doesn't even have a diagram of the brakes from my car: suck it

The stock top mounts look like it's a sealed bearing. I might have to go with a bottle cap.

Got most of the way prepped to pull the trans today too. Can't get the driveshaft bolts off the diff. In hindsight, should have done that first when I could use the e-brake.

More fun tomorrow.

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TronDD
Found a video on youtube that shows me where everything is inside the brakes. Just have to get my surgeon hands going to fish around through the little hole and work the mechanisms.

Free youtube video: 1
Chiltons that charges money and simply says "Loosen adjuster" and doesn't even have a diagram of the brakes from my car: suck it

The stock top mounts look like it's a sealed bearing. I might have to go with a bottle cap.

Got most of the way prepped to pull the trans today too. Can't get the driveshaft bolts off the diff. In hindsight, should have done that first when I could use the e-brake.

More fun tomorrow.

Bt driveshaft I guess you mean KARDAN aka prop aka in 'merikuh only "driveshaft"

Stick a big herking screwdriver (like prybarish sized) thru the U-joint and rotate till it hits the floor.
Crack as many as you can, move screwdriver, and crack the rest, then spin off at your leisure.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Yeah, I was trying that. I need to jam it up so I can swing a hammer to break them loose.

Oh, John, do you have top spring perches that would fit the 50mm DMS? One is starting to wallow out the hole.

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TronDD
Yeah, I was trying that. I need to jam it up so I can swing a hammer to break them loose.

Oh, John, do you have top spring perches that would fit the 50mm DMS? One is starting to wallow out the hole.

Quite possibly... Need to see the top of the strut to be 100% sure.
Memory says that there is a very short section that the perches sit on and not sure of the diameter that DMS does. The hole in mine is 20mm dia and about 7.92mm deep. Can you make a sketch of the dims?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Within the limits of my Harbor Freight calipers, it seems to be the same dimensions.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2013 01:24PM by TronDD.

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TronDD
Within the limits of my Harbor Freight calipers, it seems to be the same dimensions.

OK lucky you.
Currently all of my 50mm upers and lowers and lock rings and inserts are spoken for, BUT! theres a 12 foot hunk of 4" diameter 6061 aluminum which is in line for getting carved up into stuff rear soon, maybe even if I'm lucky this afternoon (I DO have to go down there, groan)

I can certainl;y get you some out of that run.
How are you lowers? (Same thread on DMS and my 50s)

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Uh...the lowers are....there. I don't have the fancy pants spanner to turn them so I've never done so. They hold the springs in place so that's all I need.

I have a little time for the tops, I am about to send these out for rebuild so I'll be waiting before I start reassembly.

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TronDD
Uh...the lowers are....there. I don't have the fancy pants spanner to turn them so I've never done so. They hold the springs in place so that's all I need.

I have a little time for the tops, I am about to send these out for rebuild so I'll be waiting before I start reassembly.

Hang on! Where you send them? What kinda "rebuild"? Howa mucha moolah?
I've heard some unbelievably scary stories and you don't want to go bankrupt and be forced out onto the streets with winter comin on do ya?
THINK OF THE FAWKIN KIDS FOR FAWKS SAKE!!!!!!!!!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I was going to send them to ncrally as they are just "around the corner" in NY. I don't know the condition of these struts so I figured I'd send them out. They said they'd look them over, check the bearings see what needed to be done. About a couple hundred bucks each depending on what parts they end up needing.

Find up2mtns aka Jon burke's how to on dms stuff. It's the 200 a side regrease and bushing replacement how to. If the insert is bent, they used to be 800 or so to replace. Should be able to bushing and regrease yourself though.

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Grant Hughes

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TronDD
I was going to send them to ncrally as they are just "around the corner" in NY. I don't know the condition of these struts so I figured I'd send them out. They said they'd look them over, check the bearings see what needed to be done. About a couple hundred bucks each depending on what parts they end up needing.

Hang on and when I'm awake I'll run thru what you can do FIRST so you know what you can in advance..and you oughtter know this basics.
Tomorow morning ( I just came up from welding some Subie rears for a guy in New Mexico--cool dude, lives at the end of a 17 mile gravel road, works in the film industry so when the call comes in, he has to scoot...so rally suspesnion it is!) (And the second set is for Alex Rademacher in Reno, new poppa by 10 months now so he's out in the garage nudging with his toe the poor ol neglected car)

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.