My Galant VR4 build thread

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Paddy1337

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john vanlandingham


Nice idea for inspiration but the dimensions will not meet the rules...
The rules state distance from compressor wheel and that the 34mm bit must be a straight section 3mm long...

Now enforcement is lackadaisical to say the least so who knows, maybe you can get away with it.

Believe it or not, I read the rules before i clicked buy. but I didn't ask the seller for exact dimensions due to the low price. For what it's worth, my plan is chop off the bottom/skinny section where the slot is machined. Then machine my compressor cover inlet to the OD of this venturi, until the venturi is close enough to the compressor fins. I think it was 15mm or less.

Am I still off-base in my thinking it will work when adapted that way?

The restictor part must be 50mm from the compressor--and must be 34mm for 3mm .
Those Weber chokes are continuous venturi---no straight section 3mm long

And the tolerance is like + nuthin minus xxxx

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

damn. I definitely thought the venturi had that nice radius at the inlet and went to 34mm constant the rest of the way. Probably would make it not an actual venturi based on your statement.

I definitely need to re-read, i thought it had to be close to the compressor (not to far away), rather than not to close like you're saying.

--break--

So I went back and am referencing this:
"The restrictor must be maintained for a minimum
distance of 3 mm measured downstream of a plane
perpendicular to the rotational axis situated at a
maximum of 50 mm upstream of a plane passing
through the most upstream extremities of the wheel
blades (see Appendix B drawing 254-4). "



the 3mm distance maintained of 34mm sounds like it will screw me, as stated. But when I read the distance from compressor wheel, I still understand it the same way I did; no more than 50mm away from the compressor wheel. Am I retarded?

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Paddy1337
damn. I definitely thought the venturi had that nice radius at the inlet and went to 34mm constant the rest of the way. Probably would make it not an actual venturi based on your statement.

I definitely need to re-read, i thought it had to be close to the compressor (not to far away), rather than not to close like you're saying.

--break--

So I went back and am referencing this:
"The restrictor must be maintained for a minimum
distance of 3 mm measured downstream of a plane
perpendicular to the rotational axis situated at a
maximum of 50 mm upstream of a plane passing
through the most upstream extremities of the wheel
blades (see Appendix B drawing 254-4). "



the 3mm distance maintained of 34mm sounds like it will screw me, as stated. But when I read the distance from compressor wheel, I still understand it the same way I did; no more than 50mm away from the compressor wheel. Am I retarded?

Only slightly but aren't we all in some ways?

No the 34mm straight bit must be 50mm from the compressor wheel...although where exactly they measure from is unclear---
I think it is better to have it further away than closer, the air maybe has a chance to settle down a bit and not have a big low pressure area right at the wheel.
Do you even Bernoulli much?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
Paddy1337
Also, with the concept of get on stage first, then make changes I'm going to try and get my Evo's stock Bilsteins on to the Galant. Supposedly it's a pretty darn simple modification to make them fit.

I still don't get the OEM concept of gigantic springs up front, and normal looking in the rear. But, simple install, MUCH newer, and with the fancy Bilstein name I figure it should be enough to get me on stage (at the low low price of free). Get the seat time, learn the car, then when I go to a builder, like JVAB, I'll have some input on what the car does, and what I'd like it to do differently. Not to mention, with a usable suspension on the car, fabrication delays can't hold me up.

Wait, what are those from? Like, what specifically?

Those look like they'd bolt right in to my Volvo (it's a CE9A chassis). Nobody makes anything Good for it so I gave up and bought some twin-tube Bilsteins on megasale. But if there ARE monotubes out there that'd fit, I want to find a set.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

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Pete

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Paddy1337
Also, with the concept of get on stage first, then make changes I'm going to try and get my Evo's stock Bilsteins on to the Galant. Supposedly it's a pretty darn simple modification to make them fit.

I still don't get the OEM concept of gigantic springs up front, and normal looking in the rear. But, simple install, MUCH newer, and with the fancy Bilstein name I figure it should be enough to get me on stage (at the low low price of free). Get the seat time, learn the car, then when I go to a builder, like JVAB, I'll have some input on what the car does, and what I'd like it to do differently. Not to mention, with a usable suspension on the car, fabrication delays can't hold me up.

Wait, what are those from? Like, what specifically?

Those look like they'd bolt right in to my Volvo (it's a CE9A chassis). Nobody makes anything Good for it so I gave up and bought some twin-tube Bilsteins on megasale. But if there ARE monotubes out there that'd fit, I want to find a set.

Pete, measure the width between the ears and the bolt hole c-c and post it.
They are valves soft maybe a 200 lb/in spring max
I have a set of fronts...and whacking off ears if they're wrong is easy.
Adapting a top mount on the udder hand taks a bit more headscratching.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Paddy sent you a Pea Em

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'd just like to take this opportunity to mention my OTHER GVR4 left today. Keith and I are going to see if we can't get it together in time for Prescott this year.



I might not have been able to achieve the dream in 10 years on my own, but there's something comforting about knowing every GVR4 I've owned will end up on the stages. Where they were fucking intended to be in the first place.

Paddy, get that pig on the stages. Hell or high water. And don't let JVL's chiding get to you. He gives you shit because he wants to see you rally that thing until it literally disintegrates from all the fun.

Press on.

---

Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

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DR1665
I'd just like to take this opportunity to mention my OTHER GVR4 left today. Keith and I are going to see if we can't get it together in time for Prescott this year.



I might not have been able to achieve the dream in 10 years on my own, but there's something comforting about knowing every GVR4 I've owned will end up on the stages. Where they were fucking intended to be in the first place.

Paddy, get that pig on the stages. Hell or high water. And don't let JVL's chiding get to you. He gives you shit because he wants to see you rally that thing until it literally disintegrates from all the fun.

Press on.

Brian we've spoken on the phone, he's alright, not a whiney pussy..
hell I was trying to convince him ---since he has parts and acess and knows exactly what would be needed---is the shove the entire Evo whatever --when they flipped them around the other way cause wham boom, all he has to do is hack out some mounts---EXACTLY LIKE MISTERBITCY DID when they turned the motor around....and then use any of the Evobitchy's Sooooper bitching gearsets...which are gawddamn good ratios, good final drives.

Old shell, new innards...
That would kick ace...
Cheaper than buying some whack gears for the original "other way" boxes..

(better to weld a little and run the Evo stuff than not weld and spend millions..)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Pete. These are off a 2005 Evo 8 MR, chassis CT9A. The MR specifically had the bilsteins. Other trim has kyb. Interestingly, bilstein now refuses to rebuild and revalve these OEM; because they sell a bolt on aftermarket replacement.

john. I was thinking ... maybe these would be good donors for a separate setup. Either for tarmac rallies, or my local rally, sandblast. I expect the car will pop it's cherry at sandblast. I've assumed, the setup would be soft (with decent ground clearance fir the sand trap, etc). We'll talk over the phone.

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Paddy1337
Pete. These are off a 2005 Evo 8 MR, chassis CT9A. The MR specifically had the bilsteins. Other trim has kyb. Interestingly, bilstein now refuses to rebuild and revalve these OEM; because they sell a bolt on aftermarket replacement.

john. I was thinking ... maybe these would be good donors for a separate setup. Either for tarmac rallies, or my local rally, sandblast. I expect the car will pop it's cherry at sandblast. I've assumed, the setup would be soft (with decent ground clearance fir the sand trap, etc). We'll talk over the phone.

Don't know if you're planning any winter stuff but they could be made over to be winter stuff...

Or tarmac... But they're kinda short for much more than smooth use.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I found some really, really good info on this lazy sunday. It's all associated with swapping 1G 3000GT rear end into the Galant. The whole subframe will bolt up, using 3KGT trailing arms, yada yada.

List of "benefits" from swap:
very slightly wider track in rear
upgraded calipers/rotors
larger ball joints all around
larger/beefy rear diff from 3KGT
retain cable e-brake
** lower strut mount- AKA more available travel!


All I gotsa figure out right now is the nitty gritty details, and if 15" wheels will fit. But generally speaking, it sounds lots lots of pros and minimal cons.

3KGT trailing arms, lower coilover mount



Galant parts, higher mount

I might have jumped the gun a little on excitement. Looks like people are using the Galant pumpkin, subframe, and exles. It's just the trailing arms, control arms, hubs etc being changed. still, lots bonuses like travel, beefy joints, and brakes.

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Paddy1337
I might have jumped the gun a little on excitement. Looks like people are using the Galant pumpkin, subframe, and exles. It's just the trailing arms, control arms, hubs etc being changed. still, lots bonuses like travel, beefy joints, and brakes.

The big thing which creates a problem is that big fat pin on the arm in single shear...

Can you post up a close up of the mount area.
It LOOKS like the basic thing is a welded up part. If we can weld once on the arm and then forever have easy replacement shock straight outta the box, then it is a worthwhile mod..

KnowwhatImeanVern?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

yeah. can you post a picture of what a "straight out the box" mount looks like?

I'll get a good picture of OEM mounting location now. For what it's worth, the single sheer pin/stud on the GTO stuff is even larger than the Galant's pin, and that's bigger than Evo X.

brb

Galant OEM mounts pictured. not my car, some awesome pics taken by someone a month ago.