Pin jack stands

We use those with our car, they're really nice and SUPER stable. Its nice to have the adjust ability too

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

The main reason we don't have a three/four points are these:

1) We have a lot of surface area with a triangle way, won't sink into the ground like a three/four/normal jackstand>
2) Harder to fabricate
3) Harder to transport. Packing Jackstands is always a PITA.

I have considered putting a leg or extension on it though.

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
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> Its nice to have the adjust ability too

Why? I think I'd probably find myself always at the highest adjustable point anyhow...

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Grant Hughes

I like all the fab photos- You guys do nice work.

Why not just take a normal jackstand and weld a pin to the top? Add some gussets, of course. But then the triangle base and adjustability are done.

That sounds really quick and easy... May not go as high as you'd like, though...

Doug

Doug Heredos Wrote:
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> I like all the fab photos- You guys do nice
> work.
>
> Why not just take a normal jackstand and weld a
> pin to the top? Add some gussets, of course. But
> then the triangle base and adjustability are
> done.
>
> That sounds really quick and easy... May not go
> as high as you'd like, though...
>
> Doug

they don't, unless you get the 3 or 4 ton jack stands, which are big, bulky, and frickin' heavy.

lots of options, I wouldn't say anything is 'wrong' unless it falls on you. then that's bad.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

NoCoast Wrote:
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> Dazed_Driver Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Its nice to have the adjust ability too
>
> Why? I think I'd probably find myself always at
> the highest adjustable point anyhow...
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO


Well, When we first started, the car was a bit low, and we had to jack the car, put the front stands in at a lower height, put a 4x4 on the jack, jack higher, and then adjust. Kinda ghetto... but it worked. Also, I seem to remember dropping one or two a notch down, or raising, or whatever, to make up for iregularities, so the car didnt shake.

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

The reason we made ours adjustable is the fact that out in the field with an aluminum jack we won't be able to get as high up as in the shop with bigger jack.

I want to get a low profile, high lift jack, but just haven't done it yet (expensive) that we'll use in the shop and on the road.

The problem with converting normal jackstands is that they will wobble quite a bit, plus you still have to cart around squares of plywood so they don't sink into the ground.

I started typing that the jack diff was the main reason I could see.
My burly jack will lift like 32" high, but weighs something like 150 lbs. Needless to say, I carry a piece of 4X8 wood to events where I drive the car to the event so don't want to deal with finding somewhere to put the big jack.

I have to say though that I really like yours Kris.
You should share dimensions and such that you went with.

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Grant Hughes

Oh, FEA Stuff.

so, i did an initial load of a 4000 lb car divided up the force equally between the feet of the stands

and then did it at 10x that amount.

these are the results.

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Grant Hughes

I'd be happy to. Just have to get my notes (hopefully can read them still!).

One thing for sure though is I'd use DOM tube for the adjustable 'socket' and 'neck'. Was really tough to get a smooth-operating yet not sloppy setup with the ERW square stuff. A lot of filing and grinding, test-fitting.

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Oh, FEA Stuff.
>
> so, i did an initial load of a 4000 lb car divided
> up the force equally between the feet of the
> stands
>
> and then did it at 10x that amount.
>
> these are the results.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

so that means these would just bend a little if I stacked 10 cars on them? cool.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

I'm going to say, no...

lots of factors here...

Your sockets are angled - chances are the corner wieght of your car is loaded on one single, small point on the pin.

Stands are angled.

Does the rainbow drawing take into consideration the altered metalurgy around the welds? (quality/consistancy of welds?)

Shift in loads and vibration of the car...

etc...

I still wish I knew how to play with a program like that. I probably wouldn't overbuild and overthink as much...

Jon, is the pin just a machined step down? Or, os it chamfered where the diameter changes?

(It's been a while since I read a book, forgive me if the terminology or subject matter is way off)

EDIT: Oops, the "pin" is two pieces... Grant, does the drawing take that into account?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2009 12:01PM by Daniel Buehler.

No, no, and no. I'm guessing.
But the point is that in a perfect world each stand can more than support the car and this helps point to where failure point would be (which is right where you'd expect.)
The one thing that is missing is that if the welds for the pin to stand are poor it will fail there probably.

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Grant Hughes

I think we are going to have a pin stand building party here in North Carolina. Those woudl be trick on the XR.

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Matt Smith

Racing in glorious black and red

My daily life is a Saab story (sold!)

They are nice on an XR. I just have two stands though so I work on one side, then switch to the other. My jack can lift the rear high enough so that I can sit crosslegged under the rear to take of the halfshafts...

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Grant Hughes