Tubular VW subframes--pics etc

Quote
deathmetalscottie
I'm bringing this back from the grave! Any way I might be able to see some pics of the "new" design? Possibly some solidworks files? Really want to lighten the front of the ol' mk3 but not quite willing to cut the front of the cars frame off, yet...

No computer files.... You can find pictures at https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=144902&id=281129179600

No cutting any frame components off, this just replaces the K-frame that bolts on to the unibody and holds the steering rack, control arms, and motor mounts...

I still want one of these. If only they didn't cost as much as my car did.

What thickness and type of skid plates is everyone running? The car we picked up has 3/8 UHMW, and I've noticed a lot of people running 1/4 alu.... which seems like massive overkill to me. Also, I can't bend 1/4in, but I could do two 1/8 in sheets and stitch the perimeter.
Give the n00b some advice please.

My skidplate is .33" and I've had to massage it with a sledge to get it off my oilpan before.

1/4" aluminim and even with a 1.5"x0.120 wall H-frame supporting it, we have replaced it several times....

Quote
fliz
My skidplate is .33" and I've had to massage it with a sledge to get it off my oilpan before.

Support the sump guard and you won't have to go insane thick like that.

It is supposed to be protecting the sump, and maybe the alloy gearbox case from ROCKS flying around.

1/4" and support

Good enough for works cars, oughtta be good enough for youse!

Skid plates are usually made out of UHMW. I recently got some from a place online. http://www.iplasticsupply.com/materials/uhmw-ultra-high-molecular-weight-polyethylene-tivar-polystone-sheet-rod. I got some .500" and it worked great. UHMW has great wear resistance and very durable. I used to have aluminum as well had to replace them over and over again. Since I've had my UHMW I haven't had a problem yet.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2011 04:24PM by 2talltary.

2talltary: who're you? Please read the forum rules about identifying yourself.

I thought I knew every rallyista in CA.

in other news, does anyone have a solution for Mk1 rear swingarms that are prone to bend?

Quote
gilbrock
in other news, does anyone have a solution for Mk1 rear swingarms that are prone to bend?

Yeah: Toyota 8" pick-up axles.
The bearings in them are bigger than Ford 8.8" things, and I've gotten a 4.1 ring and pinion for $10, a 4.3 for 12 bucks and a 4.88 for $137 new...

Of course there were some mods to use it so probably better to start with something that you don't have to turn the motor 90 degrees and lengthen and cut up so much....

(The Rarebit beam can be beefed up like the MKii and MkIII things but depends on not having a fuel tank in the way. Pyramids as tall as you dare welded at the rear box section and circle track derived 7/8" rods to make the thing a 3 dimension part rater than a 1 dimension flexy thang..)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

(The Rarebit beam can be beefed up like the MKii and MkIII things but depends on not having a fuel tank in the way. Pyramids as tall as you dare welded at the rear box section and circle track derived 7/8" rods to make the thing a 3 dimension part rater than a 1 dimension flexy thang..)

I did that on mine. Lasted great for about 10 rallies. The rear beam tacoed in the last two events, ending up with about 20 degrees of negative camber. But I never tucked the rear arms in like I did on the previous beam. Just find a junkyard with a couple and buy them all. I did that and walked out with 3 of them for $50. Should last me longer than the car.

++phil

Well the subframe rot took its toll. Glad i was at a stop when it broke. Where do i get one of them fine looking subframes? Its for a 91 Golf. Thanks AJ