Subie rear suspension questions

I guess I can pull the inserts and have a looksie. I don't have a press to do bearings if they need them.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11331

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6527

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Grant Hughes

Quote
NoCoast
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11331

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6527

Damn the second one is super-superficial.
Did you even read the links?

$45 for a $8 seal and a dollop of grease.?


Fuckit. Never mind.
What a deal, how conventient! I'm so busy that ordering the grease online and having the seals right in the box is so much more better than thinking of planning, like it was a totally surpriseular surprise, whodda thunk it that my suspension would ever need service so the convenience of having the grease in seals come right to my door is worth paying 90 plus shipping for $20 worth of junk.

Cool with the very thorough instructions and detailed exam tips and how to check..
That sure was great links to a really technical site!!
Golly!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Found those threads, Grant. Thanks.

John, you missed the best part. The kit comes with a decal. A decal!

I also found a post where someone was using cigarette filters from his co-driver's dicarded butts for the foam breather insert.

I actually already have a set of new seals. I guess I open things up and see what else is needed.

Quote
TronDD
Found those threads, Grant. Thanks.

John, you missed the best part. The kit comes with a decal. A decal!

I also found a post where someone was using cigarette filters from his co-driver's dicarded butts for the foam breather insert.

I actually already have a set of new seals. I guess I open things up and see what else is needed.

If you call now, I'll give you a quick run down.. I'm fed up with typing.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
NoCoast
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11331

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6527

Damn the second one is super-superficial.
Did you even read the links?

$45 for a $8 seal and a dollop of grease.?


Fuckit. Never mind.
What a deal, how conventient! I'm so busy that ordering the grease online and having the seals right in the box is so much more better than thinking of planning, like it was a totally surpriseular surprise, whodda thunk it that my suspension would ever need service so the convenience of having the grease in seals come right to my door is worth paying 90 plus shipping for $20 worth of junk.

Cool with the very thorough instructions and detailed exam tips and how to check..
That sure was great links to a really technical site!!
Golly!

Better than any write up on the job that exists on this site.
The first link was just an alternative source for the bits. If you sell the shit, get off your ass and post something with details and information and stop being such a grouch. Back hurting again or something cause you've been extra grumpy and pissy on here lately.

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Grant Hughes

Ok, got the struts apart.

One had almost no grease in it but had moisture instead.

One is very solid, 2 have a tiny bit of side to side play, one has good, solid clunk-a clunk-a sounding play.

Also, only one has the vent and filter. On one of them, I can feel the air pressure escaping around the seal when compressed, which means it's likely sucking crap in through the seal when it expands. I would assume the vents are important and a filter a good idea.

I'll take a closer look for bent inserts, but nothing looked catastrophic.

Tim.

Bumping this thread...


Still haven't decided, STI aluminum control arms, or the swedged tubing with heim joints. John, you said you've made the spacers before?

Any recommendations on which heim joints to buy. There's a million out there, some 10x more expensive than others. I don't mind spending money for quality, but I dont want to spend it just because it's more expensive.

Obviously the threads have to match the tubing you buy but other than that i'm not sure where to go...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search.html?query=heim%20joint&facet=GA_Sema_Part:Heim%20Joints

i've been running sweged tubes with 3/4" joints for about 5 rally seasons now. Still on the same set of joints, but they now have some play and should probably be replaced.

The beauty of using 3/4" joints (which is overkill) is you can get by with cheaper joints, and not high dollar stuff.

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Chris

Quote
Do It Sidewayz
i've been running sweged tubes with 3/4" joints for about 5 rally seasons now. Still on the same set of joints, but they now have some play and should probably be replaced.

The beauty of using 3/4" joints (which is overkill) is you can get by with cheaper joints, and not high dollar stuff.

Thank you..
Pay pennies more for sumpin big---with a load capacity well in excess of what you need= longevity...a good thing for privateers.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Chris do you use spacers, or just a washer stackup? What was your solution for the gap.


Also, chromolly or steel? 3/4" steel is about 1/3 to 1/2 less.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2014 09:09AM by czwalga.

I had Stainless "spacers" made up. Basically sleeves with 14mm ID and 3/4" OD. Two halves per joint, as they have integral "washers". John has lots of pictures of what he does but it's not rocket sciene.

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Chris

Quote
Do It Sidewayz
I had Stainless "spacers" made up. Basically sleeves with 14mm ID and 3/4" OD. Two halves per joint, as they have integral "washers". John has lots of pictures of what he does but it's not rocket sciene.

Duh yepp duh yep what he said folks duh yep!

He still wants to know if you just got the swaged "steel" or if you went wih some fancy schmantzy CrMo for the TUBES?

Now on the spacers, I have always done them in some grade of stainless so they don't turn to a pile of pooo and weld themselves to the bolts..

Steve in answer to PM let me ask wife to scan the drawing I think I have, our printer/scanner thing went wide, clipped a bank and rolled.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Just cheap "steel".

---

Chris

Quote
Do It Sidewayz
Just cheap "steel".

That's what I's been telling guys. The OEM things are about as sturdy as curtain rods---which what I think they are---so the plain steel ones are soooooooo much stronger I mean Wot da Fawk...so get steel and for another 12-13 bucks get a spare or 2---and set it up to whatever length it needs to be so if'n ya bendz it you bang in the spare soon as you can, and drive off with something more or less aligned.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.