So i have an GLH-T omni...

At the time I was only aware that it was understeering badly and not responding to correction. Imagine my surprise when I saw the pic with all that air underneath.

Also the rear shocks were particularly bad if memory serves.

Not that any of this slowed us down.

Many good times were had in the ORV Park.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

Okay so here is part 1 of my long list of questions so i get some things started TM.

1. Was Dave's omni using the GLH wheels? They appear relatively strong, but i lack any effective means of testing there resilence to compressive force.

2. Was shocks are ideal for this car? The GLH has a different suspension with i believe Konis on it but something tells me that the factory koni wont appreciate extended use.

Basically i have a few upgrades planned. The trick is just getting the parts from the junkyard and then hoping i don't over-step any rules. So please critque me.


A. Rear disc brakes (with rotors that are almost larger than the fronts...) from a Shelby Charger.

B. Front axles from a turbo minivan. Not TOO hard to find. But im not sure if i have to use 5spd turbo van axles or not. Im thinking so though and being that they made those for 6 months in 89, im hoping i can order them. Other wise i can make some axles from i think J-body cars. These should withstand extensive abuse.

C. Probably going to weld the diff on the 525 trans i have. But i want to upgrade to a cable shifting transmission like on out of a 5psd Daytona. Might possibly have two transmission. One welded, one not (on-road use). Not really much of a finacial worry seeing these parts are very very very cheap.

D. The motor is going to run the stock Garrett turbo seeing that can spool very quick and make very good, relieble power when used correctly. (or a TON of power when used irresponsibly...) Best thing to compliment it, is an external wastegate room an Audi 5000 turbo car.

E. the stock GLH wheels are 15" wheels and the tires are relatively low profile. so i might need a 14" wqheel in a 5x100

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

low impedance Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Okay so here is part 1 of my long list of
> questions so i get some things started TM.
>
> 1. Was Dave's omni using the GLH wheels? They
> appear relatively strong, but i lack any effective
> means of testing there resilence to compressive
> force.<<

-- Any of the factory alloy wheels that fit the car are very strong. I have tested their resilience to compressive force effectively many times. I still have a wheel hanging from the wall in my shop that I drove on eight miles with a flat on the front and only lost 1:45 on the stage. That wheel was ruined but still stayed round. Other times I drove on flats for less distance and was still able to reuse the wheel.

>
> 2. Was shocks are ideal for this car? The GLH has
> a different suspension with i believe Konis on it
> but something tells me that the factory koni wont
> appreciate extended use.<<

-- Back in the day the "hot" ticket was Formula Monroe GP shocks with the factory rally springs. That was the factory rally setup. Those only lasted a few events, though, so it was a good thing they were cheap. I also tried the Konis as came on the GLHS and cranked them up full stiff and they were better but didn't last much longer. I adapted a full 50mm DMS 4 strut setup to my Omni in 2002 (which doubled the value of the car) but that's really overkill. I can make a 40mm Bilstein setup using strong DMS strut bodies. You have to make different shock mounts for the rear but it's worth it. PM or email me if you are interested.


>
> Basically i have a few upgrades planned. The trick
> is just getting the parts from the junkyard and
> then hoping i don't over-step any rules. So please
> critque me.
>
>
> A. Rear disc brakes (with rotors that are almost
> larger than the fronts...) from a Shelby Charger.
>

-- Actually, from a Daytona. Shelby Chargers all had drums. Go for it. Try to find the single pin calipers for the front. Bigger pad and easier pad and rotor changes. Phenolic pistons that won't seize in the bores. Only one bolt to remove the caliper and the caliper bracket does not hook around the rotor so the rotor just slides off. Use Porterfield carbon pads and the highest temp brake fluid you can find. You'll need it especially if you're going to left foot brake. Which you are going to do if you want to be fast.


>
> B. Front axles from a turbo minivan. Not TOO hard
> to find. But im not sure if i have to use 5spd
> turbo van axles or not. Im thinking so though and
> being that they made those for 6 months in 89, im
> hoping i can order them. Other wise i can make
> some axles from i think J-body cars. These should
> withstand extensive abuse.<<

-- You are going to want to find an A555 tranny. These have the Getrag gearset and are stonger, with stronger diffs. They also have axles with larger diameter stubs which is the part that always breaks off inside the diff. I never had trouble with an outer CV ever. The axle stubs on the A525 tranny would always break before the outer CV got that much wear. The A555 tranny uses a cable shifter which is much less troublesome than the stock linkage. It's an easy conversion. I even adapted a cable shifter to the A525 tranny. The minivan axles will do you no good with the 525 tranny. The 555 axle stubs will not fit in the 525 tranny.
>
>

> C. Probably going to weld the diff on the 525
> trans i have. But i want to upgrade to a cable
> shifting transmission like on out of a 5psd
> Daytona. Might possibly have two transmission. One
> welded, one not (on-road use). Not really much of
> a finacial worry seeing these parts are very very
> very cheap.
>
-- See above.

>
> D. The motor is going to run the stock Garrett
> turbo seeing that can spool very quick and make
> very good, relieble power when used correctly. (or
> a TON of power when used irresponsibly...) Best
> thing to compliment it, is an external wastegate
> room an Audi 5000 turbo car.
>

-- Don't go crazy on the motor. Keep it reliable.

>
> E. the stock GLH wheels are 15" wheels and the
> tires are relatively low profile. so i might need
> a 14" wqheel in a 5x100<

-- I used both but 14" rally tires are harder to find and so are the 5x100 14" alloy wheels. You do have to use a lower profile tire because that's all that will fit. I usually ran 14/60x15 or 14/62x15 Michelins. A 15/64x15 you could barely squeeze in there but it rubbed on the tranny pretty good. Forget about anything bigger.

Doivi Clarkinen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

>
> -- Any of the factory alloy wheels that fit the
> car are very strong. I have tested their
> resilience to compressive force effectively many
> times. I still have a wheel hanging from the wall
> in my shop that I drove on eight miles with a flat
> on the front and only lost 1:45 on the stage.
> That wheel was ruined but still stayed round.
> Other times I drove on flats for less distance and
> was still able to reuse the wheel.
>

That will give me alot of junkyard obtainable options then. good!

>
> -- Back in the day the "hot" ticket was Formula
> Monroe GP shocks with the factory rally springs.
> That was the factory rally setup. Those only
> lasted a few events, though, so it was a good
> thing they were cheap. I also tried the Konis as
> came on the GLHS and cranked them up full stiff
> and they were better but didn't last much longer.
> I adapted a full 50mm DMS 4 strut setup to my Omni
> in 2002 (which doubled the value of the car) but
> that's really overkill. I can make a 40mm
> Bilstein setup using strong DMS strut bodies. You
> have to make different shock mounts for the rear
> but it's worth it. PM or email me if you are
> interested.

Forumla Monroe GP doesn't appear to be an availble part any longer. But seeing that once the roll cage process begins, alot of welding will be taking place anyhow, ill probably contact you above adapting the mounts to run the 40mm. Its a light car so im sure that it will be just fine.

>
> -- Actually, from a Daytona. Shelby Chargers all
> had drums. Go for it. Try to find the single pin
> calipers for the front. Bigger pad and easier pad
> and rotor changes. Phenolic pistons that won't
> seize in the bores. Only one bolt to remove the
> caliper and the caliper bracket does not hook
> around the rotor so the rotor just slides off.
> Use Porterfield carbon pads and the highest temp
> brake fluid you can find. You'll need it
> especially if you're going to left foot brake.
> Which you are going to do if you want to be fast.
>

Hmm...could have sworn it was a Charger. But Daytona appear more often in the junkyard anyhow. If i could find a V6 5spd daytona, i believe they had the A555 and could work in the omni chassis.

>
> -- You are going to want to find an A555 tranny.
> These have the Getrag gearset and are stonger,
> with stronger diffs. They also have axles with
> larger diameter stubs which is the part that
> always breaks off inside the diff. I never had
> trouble with an outer CV ever. The axle stubs on
> the A525 tranny would always break before the
> outer CV got that much wear. The A555 tranny uses
> a cable shifter which is much less troublesome
> than the stock linkage. It's an easy conversion.
> I even adapted a cable shifter to the A525 tranny.
> The minivan axles will do you no good with the
> 525 tranny. The 555 axle stubs will not fit in
> the 525 tranny.

see above. but yes, the rods need to go. But until i find a A555 i am going to run the A525 in the car to at least be able to drive the car.


>
> -- Don't go crazy on the motor. Keep it reliable.

Most of the modifications increase the reliebilty of the car, but you really cant use much power on loose surfaces i figure so i dont plan on getting carried away.

>
> -- I used both but 14" rally tires are harder to
> find and so are the 5x100 14" alloy wheels. You
> do have to use a lower profile tire because that's
> all that will fit. I usually ran 14/60x15 or
> 14/62x15 Michelins. A 15/64x15 you could barely
> squeeze in there but it rubbed on the tranny
> pretty good. Forget about anything bigger.
>
>

15" it is then

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

>
> Hmm...could have sworn it was a Charger. But
> Daytona appear more often in the junkyard anyhow.
> If i could find a V6 5spd daytona, i believe they
> had the A555 and could work in the omni chassis.
>
> >

I don't know what came with the V6 or if it would even bolt up to a 4cyl. The A555 you should be able to find on any Turbo II car, be it Omni, Charger, Daytona, LeBaron, Caravan, etc. Even NA 2.2s & 2.5s after about 1989 might have had them you just gotta look. The 555 basically superceded the 525. You may have to cobble together axles, though, as there were a lot of variations there. Daytona axles won't just slide into an Omni as they are too long. But you can use the Omni shaft and put the bigger 555 inner CVs on them to get the right length. Do stick with the equal length halfshafts. Note that there are different middle idler shafts and brackets as well.



>
> see above. but yes, the rods need to go. But until
> i find a A555 i am going to run the A525 in the
> car to at least be able to drive the car.
>
>

I ran the 525 most of the time just keep spare axles on hand and really strong magnet on a stick that you can fish the broken off end of the axle stub out of the diff with.

Ive been told to get ahold of Henry Krolikowski but ive searched his name here and over at specialstage and have found no contact information. Usually, just more posts about "you should get ahold of...". And id rather not resort to stalker like tatics

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

low impedance Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ive been told to get ahold of Henry Krolikowski
> but ive searched his name here and over at
> specialstage and have found no contact
> information. Usually, just more posts about "you
> should get ahold of...". And id rather not resort
> to stalker like tatics


Look there's no magic to having a strong, relatively reliable GLH.
Dave beat top death a few, surprised he didn't already stress STITCH WELD THE SHELL!!

Don't get clever on the engine or management, woe comme to all those who up power.
Run it intercooled and close to stock wioth just a big fat exhaust, shift short let the motor PULL, max torque at 1900 rpm means: no point in revving to much.
Makes them VERY EASY to drive REALLY QUICKLY.

Have fun, always liked those things.

When you find there is no gravel specific suspension available anywhere worth having, drop me a note.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

i kinda planned on stich welding...everything...

quick question regarding that. Would having the motor, well bottom end, in the car affect the loading on the chassis enough to warrent pulling it out to stich weld?

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

the thing im somewhat uncertain about it the roll cage. I have a two rule books, one is the NASA and the other is actually the Pikes Peak 2008. I would like to be able to make the cage within my circle of friends as two are experience and overly certified welders. One has experience with roll cages. But at the same time it would be nice to pay a shop (the large sum of cash) to do it and know that its done right.

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

Where are you at?
Build it to rally rules (Rally-America or NASA) and it is permissible for Pike's Peak Open or Time Attack classes.

Salta Motorsports in Denver, CO is the Pike's Peak specialist shop. Multiple cars, wins, etc. Over 40 roll cages built by them, some tested with positive results.

---

Grant Hughes

Im located in Cleveland, Ohio. There are a few shops that will do roll cages but they are usually 100 dollars per point plus materials. Which is kinda...well...pricey.

---

~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

If your cage experienced friend has circle track cage expereince, then he will have some good knowledge, but don't let him get invetinve and do circle track changes to the rally rules; you won't get a logbook without a rally type cage. If you want more strength, use 1.75"x/095 in the half laterals and windshield bar. Cgaes are not rocket science; but require forethought, and attention to detial and fit to come out well. Get your seats first so you can select a good main hoop position and main hoop bracing style (and roof bracing if you add that). Sent you a PM.

Regards,
Mark B.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2007 05:33PM by starion887.

> Dave beat top death a few, surprised he didn't
> already stress STITCH WELD THE SHELL!!
>
-- Oh yeah, that. I did pop a strut tower out of one so that's a good thing to do. The bad part is most of the areas you want to seam weld are zinc plated so it's difficult to weld and toxic. Try to remove as much of the zinc plating as possible (difficult to do), don't breathe the smoke and drinks lots of milk.

low impedance Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> i kinda planned on stich welding...everything...
>
> quick question regarding that. Would having the
> motor, well bottom end, in the car affect the
> loading on the chassis enough to warrent pulling
> it out to stich weld?


No. Pull it out to get better access. There are several areas that need extra strengthening, particularly the "K" member. Email me for specifics.

oppositelock@hotmail.com

low impedance Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Im located in Cleveland, Ohio. There are a few
> shops that will do roll cages but they are usually
> 100 dollars per point plus materials. Which is
> kinda...well...pricey.


-- If you think that's pricey then you should get out now.