best day of my life!

Today I bought the celica rally car I've been looking at. My first rally car! Woo hoo!
Its not in great shape... but the price was fair. It has a tired 2.2L 20R motor.
Should I work on rebuilding and modifying it or should I just start out swapping to a 2.4L 22R and go from there?
My budget is limited for now, but I'm in no rush and want to build a good car that I can enjoy for many years/till I wreck it.
I know those 22R's have got to be cheap...

Slowwpoke Wrote:
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> Today I bought the celica rally car I've been
> looking at. My first rally car! Woo hoo!

Congratulations, another rwd car soon to be going sideways.


> Its not in great shape... but the price was fair.
> It has a tired 2.2L 20R motor.
> Should I work on rebuilding and modifying it or
> should I just start out swapping to a 2.4L 22R and
> go from there?

Dave, jave a look at the "JVAB Suspensders" thread where we jumped right over suspenders for the BMW and we've all agreed they need a nice 4 cylinder.
Look at where I was talking about the shape of the combustion chamber.

I was suggesting that when a head has the valves way canted over, like the 20R/22R


the angling the valve toward the port heelps for flow in or out but torpedoes the thermal efficiency. In other words its hard as hell to make compression without using big ol domed pistons:


That ain't the best thing if there is any alternative, and in a Toyota there are easy al;ternative.

Let explore alternate idead.
Really it's worth it.
> My budget is limited for now, but I'm in no rush
> and want to build a good car that I can enjoy for
> many years/till I wreck it.
> I know those 22R's have got to be cheap...
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ditto on the Congrats! The disease has really taken hold.....

Maybe for prioroty on the limited budget expenditures, how about describing the general condition of all that you know, or can see? Like:
- What events do you want to compete in? (Could determine the answer to the next question)
- Is the cage ready to go, or does it need upgrades?
- Are things like belts up to date or do they need replaced?
- Have you had the chance to drive the car on a rally-x to sense any other issues?
- Did you get some good tires with the car, at least with enough usabel tread for a couple of rallies?

Good deal,
Mark B.

I have an old-school Toyota 18RG longblock that would drop right into that Celica. 2000 cc's, twin-cam, 8-valve head with sidedraft intakes (no carbs)...

Bob

---

Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Ascona73 Wrote:
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> I have an old-school Toyota 18RG longblock that
> would drop right into that Celica. 2000 cc's,
> twin-cam, 8-valve head with sidedraft intakes (no
> carbs)...
>
> Bob
>
> Opel is a 4-letter word...

Price?
Don't those have the sparky-plug right in the middle like the 2TC
How's we's gonna transport it?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Congratulations

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

starion887 Wrote:
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> Ditto on the Congrats! The disease has really
> taken hold.....
>
> Maybe for prioroty on the limited budget
> expenditures, how about describing the general
> condition of all that you know, or can see? Like:
> - What events do you want to compete in? (Could
> determine the answer to the next question)

What events SHOULD I compete in? I was thinking I'd try to make the car legal for any event. And from what I've heard, RA has the "strictest" rules so I thought I'd build to those.

> - Is the cage ready to go, or does it need
> upgrades?

Last rallied at 03' rim of the world. It think the cage needs another bar across the door but I'm hoping thats all.

> - Are things like belts up to date or do they need
> replaced?

It came with some bitchin piaa lights. They're no $2400 HIDs but then thats over 3 times what I paid for the car.
Didn't come with belts. And I needs a race suit. Where should I get one??

> - Have you had the chance to drive the car on a
> rally-x to sense any other issues?

No, the car hasn't run for a couple years. It has an electrical issue thats keeping it from cranking over at the moment. Thats first on my list to fix.

> - Did you get some good tires with the car, at
> least with enough usabel tread for a couple of
> rallies?

I got 7 rims and tires. Four have tread enought to rally but the tires are oooold.

>
> Good deal,
> Mark B.

ya... what John said.

Why not just turbo the engine and run an aftermarket ECU?

Slowwpoke Wrote:
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> ya... what John said.
>
> Ninety horsepower. Why? Is that too much?

Hey Dave, don't run ad buy suits and belts till 2 weeks before your first rally where they're required.
With everybody sucking the cock of SFI and saying that the belts turn to ashes in 2 years and 1 day even when they've been in a sealed box stored in a humidity control 58* wine cellar and that you'd die instantly if the car hit a large dandelion and therefore the belts are only "good" for 2 years, you don't want to do like so many of us and buy belts only to have them "expire" after 1 event.

Unless you buy FIA belts for more dinero. Then they "die" in 5 years. That FIA sticker really somehow sucks the age causing metabolites out of the surrounding air.

But! NO PRICE IS TOO MUCH for protecting the multi-millionaire owner of Rally America from potential litigation.
(RAs rules aren't the hardest, just the most bizarrely invented and interpreted, and absurd. I wonder how the RA Technical Hero might explain hos all new car manufacturer supply belts that somehow don't crumble like dust after just 2 years?)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2008 12:29AM by john vanlandingham.

secretsquirrel Wrote:
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> Why not just turbo the engine and run an
> aftermarket ECU?

Hi "Secretsquirel"
Welcome to rallyAnarchy.
We only have a couple of rules but No.1 is that we all post a real name and a real location. It works better that way when we feel like we're talking to a real person and noy some anonymous "e-persona".

So could you be kind and fill out your stuff?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

The G-force FIA belts are cheap as far as belts go and good for 5 years. The extra FIA sticker doesnt cost any extra over their pull-up non-FIA belts. And I think the camlocks are better than any other brands that I've tried so far including OMP and Sparco.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>> Price?
> Don't those have the sparky-plug right in the
> middle like the 2TC
> How's we's gonna transport it?
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham

Cheap. I don't need it any longer. Just enough $$ to cover the beer and meds to pull it from my trailer, my back will hate me!

Yea, freight would suck.

Plugs are straight up and down, like a 2TC/3TC. Rated at 145 hp (gross, I suspect).

Bob

---

Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hey Dave, don't run ad buy suits and belts till 2
> weeks before your first rally where they're
> required.

Agree 100%.
Don't buy the age restricted shit till you are REALLY ready for it. It would suck for you to buy it now, then come across some problem that takes lots of time, in the meantime your suit, harnesses etc... are all sat rotting.
(They must rot, right? That's why the need to replace them every 2?)

If you are still in the LA area give Andreas a call at Cardini Motorsport.
http://www.cardinimotorsport.com/

He's a good guy with good prices - tell him Nick Taylor sent you.
I went for Schroth belts (FIA so valid for 5 years) and I like Sparco suits, but there are definitely cheaper options out there.

---

Nick Taylor.
Knobhead.
Los Angeles, CA.

Ok, Get ahold of Gene McCullough in the Seattle area on the cage; he tech's for both NASA and R-A. Find out from him what the cage may need (if anything); that might guide along to the next steps. (I would expect Gene to be at the Olympus rally.)

On the ooooold tires, my advice would be to not use them for ANYTHING but rally-x's, not even on the street. I've seen a few old, hardened tires literally fall apart on rally cars; not a great idea.

GO to a few rally-x's as soon as you can, after the electrical fix, and thrash the car a bit; push it. I think you need to work over the basic systems (electrical, brakes, cooling, fuel system, seat mounts, the basic steering and suspension bits, dumb stuff like window regulators, etc) and get things fixed up well before going much into $$'s spent on any upgrades. It would stink to buy a lot of fancy stuff and have a stupid loose wire stop you. And you don't want to spend a rally entry fee unless the car is reliable.

Have you got rally friends who have rally cars nearby to look at it? Have them critique it. Since this car has been sitting due to a fairly simple problem, I would be concerned that there are a lot little things that need attention.

I agree on the advice on the belts and time-dated stuff like that. Buy them when you get about 1-2 months ahead of your first real rally. The only expection is a decent helmet; it's you first line of safety defense, and an SA 2005 helmet should be good 'til about 2016, if the sacnctioning body cycles stay consistent.

Regards,
Mark B.