best day of my life!

dont be afraid to borrow anything for your first two years of rally.

borrow someones "old" tires
helmet,
suit,
head and neck jazz.
ODOmeter
heck someone might even let you borrow an intercom if it meant one more car running doowops.

run Doowops, one canadian event mt trials or pacific forest and depending on the price, wild west or mt hood.

95 horse power is more than i've got, don't sweat the power until you can out drive it. Just make sure the thing isn't running poorly because of something stupid like an old fuel pump or something like that.

jvab suspension is Very Nice! and worth the price! though if there is suspension on the car that can finish one event, don't take the car apart to get your suspenders, have john start working on a spare set.

Lucky!

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"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.

Since I'm going to be here till at least july, is there a tech guy in the southern california area that would come look at my cage and such? I could always take pics and post them here if that would work...

starion887 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok, Get ahold of Gene McCullough in the Seattle
> area on the cage; he tech's for both NASA and R-A.
> Find out from him what the cage may need (if
> anything); that might guide along to the next
> steps. (I would expect Gene to be at the Olympus
> rally.)

Except Gene is way out on the far edge of Washington like 3 feet before you fall in the Ocean, 130 miles from Sleezattle.

>
> On the ooooold tires, my advice would be to not
> use them for ANYTHING but rally-x's, not even on
> the street. I've seen a few old, hardened tires
> literally fall apart on rally cars; not a great
> idea.

WHICH tires have fallen apart?
Name names.
I've seen 10 year old Michelins win Gp2 stages.
>
> GO to a few rally-x's as soon as you can, after
> the electrical fix, and thrash the car a bit; push
> it. I think you need to work over the basic
> systems (electrical, brakes, cooling, fuel system,
> seat mounts, the basic steering and suspension
> bits, dumb stuff like window regulators, etc) and
> get things fixed up well before going much into
> $$'s spent on any upgrades. It would stink to buy
> a lot of fancy stuff and have a stupid loose wire
> stop you. And you don't want to spend a rally
> entry fee unless the car is reliable.

Yep get it going and shake it down for all the "car shit"
>
> Have you got rally friends who have rally cars
> nearby to look at it?

Poor bastid is over in the middle of the state in what should be a desert wasteland
except for the irrigation from the Colombia. Nobody lives there.
Nobody even lives close by.
He's just going to have to commute a while to the civilised part of the state.



Have them critique it. Since
> this car has been sitting due to a fairly simple
> problem, I would be concerned that there are a lot
> little things that need attention.

Yep, previous owner was poor broke college student, probably needs a serious lookover.
>
> I agree on the advice on the belts and time-dated
> stuff like that. Buy them when you get about 1-2
> months ahead of your first real rally. The only
> expection is a decent helmet; it's you first line
> of safety defense, and an SA 2005 helmet should be
> good 'til about 2016, if the sacnctioning body
> cycles stay consistent.
>
> Regards,
> Mark B.

Hey Mark, here's something for youse to stink abooot for the Oldpile for steering
Just looked at a Miata steering rack and its a nice 2.75 rack and narrow, as in narrow enough to maybe be good, commonly available, front of spindle. A little lightweight looking but cheaper than getting a nonexistent Ascona A rack.

Might be something to think aboooot for Dave Clark the Lesser's Toyota..

Hey Dave, didya get that nice motor from Bob? Send him some good Washington beer and secure it, we'll figure a way to get it here.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
>
> Hey Dave, didya get that nice motor from Bob? Send
> him some good Washington beer and secure it, we'll
> figure a way to get it here.
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca

Here's one much closer. http://www.toyota3tc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17556

---

www.performanceoptions.net



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2008 08:29PM by noypiesky.

Well Dave the lesser Clark ought to snag one of them.
Know if this is still around?
DAVE, John Lane is going to bring a 240 back from down there, he could drag it back.

But 500 is a bit more than beer iddnit?
Trucking a motor on a pallet might run about 300 from out there in Cornetticut.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Here's another one. More expensive though, but with a little more goodies. From the 1st GenCelica.com forums. Pics are up on the site. You have to register to see them though. A bit pricey. He's in San Jose, CA.

I’m moving on to restoring a 1967 Buick GS 340 California Special so I’m selling all my RG stuff, been collecting it for the past 10 years now. If you don’t like these prices then you are free to make an offer… and of course I am free to ignore it. Cash or money orders work best, Pics are available by request at Drew@litrex.com. Unless I can figure out how to post images here.
Toyota 18rg short block: 92mm, high compression (11:1?) pistons, line bored, balanced, Total Seal rings, lots of receipts, 5K miles, there is absolutely no ring ridge in the cylinders… $750
18RG Copper 92mm Head gasket, new… $45
Disassembled 270 series head, complete, needs valve job, all valves are good… $150
TRD PI copy Header, large port, 3/8 flange… $250
Header flange, thick, large port... $45
RG exhaust and intake manifold gaskets… $25
18RG HKS cams 288 & 304, Like new and still in the box… $500
Toyota RG “equivalent” timing chains set, new… $45
Mallory dual point, mechanical advance distributors, ready for Unilite conversion… $50
1 set of used Head bolts… $25
4 used 8.5:1 RG pistons… $35
RG NHK plug wires in the box… $65
Mallory 8mm plug wires (homemade: new wires, boots are used factory RG)… $65
RG Oil pump used, shows very little wear… $100
Late model timing chain tensioner new… $100
Timing chain slipper “New in box”… $100
#3 chain damper “New in plastic ”…$100
#2 chain damper “used”… $35
RG valve cover half moons… $10 each
Valve guide seals… $80
1 low profile EFI thermo housing and cap…$100
RG engine block oil filter mount… $10
RG intake manifold w/ balance tube, 2.5” runners… $50
RG mechanical fuel pump New… $45
RG water pump New… $35
18rg Green manual… $25
Valve Cover gasket set rubber and cork… $25
Set of 4, Kumo Ecsta racing tires, 195-55VR-14, V700, 82V, V70A, Zero miles… $425.
Set of 4, 14x6, 4 on 100mm, Utra wheels… $150.
Set of 4 Piper-Cross velocity stack filter socks, with filter oil, New… $100
Mikuni 40-44mm short 1” aluminum velocity stacks, new… $100.
Innovative motorsports LC-1 Air/Fuel ratio Sensor kit, comes with new Bosch wide-band o2 sensor, New in box. $150.
Auto-Meter Air fuel ratio meter, ATM-3375… $40
Thanks for looking!
-Drew

---

www.performanceoptions.net



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2008 09:23PM by noypiesky.

JVL, we need to talk. I feel I'm drowning in a sea of opportunity, but I don't want to miss the boat! Can I give you a brief call so that you might more efficiently impart your wealth of knowledge and expertise unto me?

Cage Pics

Slowwpoke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> JVL, we need to talk. I feel I'm drowning in a
> sea of opportunity, but I don't want to miss the
> boat! Can I give you a brief call so that you
> might more efficiently impart your wealth of
> knowledge and expertise unto me?
>

Sure call now 20:15 or 8.15 pm
206 431 9696

> Ninety horsepower. Why? Is that too much?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hmmmm cage actually looks halfway decent. Can't see everything, but likely will need a diagonal in the main hoop and maybe need the sill bars completed for NASA events. (We would have to look more closely at the sill bars; what is there MAY suffice.)

Michael Hoche-???? is on So Cal for NASA rally cage inspections. (Sorry Michael, I can never remember your whole last name off the top of my head.... yet...I'll get there.) He is on SSFOrums and maybe here as 'hoche'.

JVL: some of the old Bridgestones floaring around don't do well. Many could well be 15+ years old.
No consideration for changing the Opel rack at this time; I have a few gobs of spares ones and a freshly rebuilt one. Besides, Bob Legere has the info to upgrade the existing ones, and I don't need to re-work the whole steering design. Besides, IMO, a WELL DRIVEN RWD car does not need as much steering input as FWD. I used to be steering all over the place many years ago when I started rallying, but now its' mostly a quick flick of the wheel here and there, and once the car's set in a finely balanced slide, it does not take much steering input at all to get all the control that you can do anything with.

Regards,
Mark B.

Well the best day of your life will be the birth of your first child. But this is the second best day. Savour these fleeting moments. Congratulations.

---

Gone fishing

Bob, exactly how much beer and meds are we talkin? Thats starting to sound mighty tempting...

Slowwpoke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bob, exactly how much beer and meds are we talkin?
> Thats starting to sound mighty tempting...
>
> Ninety horsepower. Why? Is that too much?


I dunno, maybe $200? Keep in mind the engine will probably need freshening, it's sat for MANY years. But they're getting pretty rare, and they have somewhat of a racing pedigree. I think Toysport still stocks some bits for it as well.

Bob

---

Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Ascona73 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Slowwpoke Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Bob, exactly how much beer and meds are we
> talkin?
> > Thats starting to sound mighty tempting...
> >
> > Ninety horsepower. Why? Is that too much?
>
>
> I dunno, maybe $200? Keep in mind the engine will
> probably need freshening, it's sat for MANY years.
> But they're getting pretty rare, and they have
> somewhat of a racing pedigree. I think Toysport
> still stocks some bits for it as well.
>
> Bob
>
> Opel is a 4-letter word...

Hey, that's a pretty good price even if you have to rebuild it. Worth the 300 to ship. The Toyota kids want crazy money for these motor nowadays. I've seen them go for as much as over a grand. I wouldn't trust Toysport as of yet. Ever since the company changed hands, they've had some pretty bad rep. If you ever need a part from them, make sure they have it in stock, go pick it up, and pay up front for it.

---

www.performanceoptions.net

starion887 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>> No consideration for changing the Opel rack at
> this time; I have a few gobs of spares ones and a
> freshly rebuilt one. Besides, Bob Legere has the
> info to upgrade the existing ones, and I don't
> need to re-work the whole steering design.

Mark, besides the Swedish Manta/Ascona A kits, you can adapt a Manta B fast-rack from Quaife to the Manta A. Gives you 2.4 turns.

Or the steering quickener deal, which with a 1.5:1 quickener gives you 2.6 turns. I'm doing another one of these in the next few weeks, I'll try to take some pics during the install (got my car lift finally!).

Bob

---

Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/