Anyone else have a 240 volvo?

slidewayswrx Wrote:
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> still trudging along in the build of this hog and
> am trying to plan/budget my off season projects.

Planning is good.
>
> For this round of questions:
> 1. What B block should I be looking for as the
> best for the rally build. I am sure john will
> chime in about squiters but im not cetain what
> setup they came with.

Oh no, I ain't all crazy about squirters. I did make a LOANER kit so that any fool can perform a squirterizational modification on any block, but that cause I got so sick of all the T-Brickers all ALL droning on to EVERYBODY "You just have to have!!!!! squirters!!!!!! Or we'll ALL DIEE!!!!!!

With the Sooper Bitching JVAB block Squirerizational Mod Kit start with what ever is easiest, and than means any B23 or later large journal B230
>
> Keep inm mind this will stay NA and will be my
> first stage car so I am not looking for gobs of
> power. Just a light build for fun and learning!
Still yopu want to be able to BEAT on the motor and not blow it up and waste towing, motel, entries etc, so my rule is build a bottom end that you can't burst and so you have a platform to build on later when the inevitable perv twitch creeps into the corner of the eys, and you start laughing the perv laugh---heh heh, heh.
>
> 2. What am I looking at in a mild B23? rally
> build?

Either a B23 or B230 get some nicer rods (lighter in the B23 and LONGER, Longer and WAY stronger is the later B230 so called 13mm rod versions) which are longer so when you fork out dough for new pistons you get some that average 400g lighter.

> 3. Anyone got a spare they want to get rid of
> cheap?

Got a freebie B21 here.
>
> Thank you to those more knowledgable than I.
> Thats alot of thank yous.

Awww shucks, twern't nothing.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks John

So really an B23 will work then. thats good to know. Sure one can be found on the cheap locally.

i was actually wondering what to expect in price ranges, lower end.

Also was wondering what you thought about the R-sport cams in the group buy on T-bricks.

Specs: NA cam is 11.07mm LSA pf 110 and duration of 252 degrees

Don't know if that is lumpy enough for my use but I am sure it is an improvment over the VX in there now. Plus at $155 I had to see what you thought.

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Zap zap my ass...

Pretty tame cam for nasty N/A.

Get the good internals. You will love 'em. Transforms how the motor feels to throttle inputs. Really.

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

So I will save my money on the cam.

I have a line on a B23E with flat tops and the 405 and an NON WC T5.

Thoughts on both?
With the transplant what ICU should I be looking for? Is the 405 desireable?

In the T5. Should I be holding out for the WC or will I be replacing gearsets anyway and should just pick up this?

Plans are changing all the time but at this moment I think in the off season I will try to get these projects done:
-T5, hopefully WC
-Basically bone stock b23, maybe a little head work if budget allows.
-And my xmas present to myself, crossing my fingers, sooper bitchn front $penders.

This will most likely leave me all tapped out. May try to pick up some other saftey odds n ends with my spare change.

This would then leave for next winter
-Coilover rear
-Cage
-Stich welding shell
-Seats and harnesses
-Remainder of saftey gear
-LOGBOOK!

Leaning towards stockish first engine in an attempt to get thingd together sooner, keep inital build costs down, and with a rookie like me behind the wheel, keep it on the road.

When I start pushing hard enough that I blow the thing this will be an obvious sign that i need moar powarrrgh!

Thanks for listening to me rant. Writing my plans out, researching projects, and hearing others opinions keeps me going with this pig when funds and/or morale is low in the Rally Tractor camp.

Rally on

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Zap zap my ass...

Stitch weld the car, give it a cage.

Give it real suspenders and brakes.

Keep the motor stock and go easy on the box. The autobox will live much longer then the M-46 if you give it synthetic fluid. Converting manual-auto and back is an afternoon's work each direction.

Once you've really LEARNED TO DRIVE give it some power. You will go much faster with good driving then sprinting between turns as we see the Scoobabitchie croud do at every single event as the spectators fall asleep to the drone of the parade of poorly driven 4X4 junk that can sprint and still make times that are tough to catch in a 2wd car.

My car will go to Doo-Wops down on power so that I can relearn to drive it.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

Everybody that's been doing this a while starts to repeat this:
Keep the motor stock and go easy on the box. The autobox will live much longer then the M-46 if you give it synthetic fluid. Converting manual-auto and back is an afternoon's work each direction.

Once you've really LEARNED TO DRIVE give it some power. You will go much faster with good driving then sprinting between turns as we see the Scoobabitchie croud do at every single event as the spectators fall asleep to the drone of the parade of poorly driven 4X4 junk that can sprint and still make times that are tough to catch in a 2wd car."

Except me.
And a few fast guys i know accross the ocean.

The statement concludes a priori that the newb, whoever it is, doesn't know how to drive.
It is an extremely annoying presumption particularly when it takes less effort to ask "What have you done before?"

I have helped a lot of guys get in the woods, and in fact in the phone conversation I had with Gene McCollough I was saying that it was a shame there was some mis perception about what was up between us when we BOTH were so similar burning with passion to see people get into the woods and to see the sport GROW all the way back to the early 80s and all the way to today.
And to see them in reasonably warm machinery.

And the lasting and common impression of those who have listened to the old cliche "Just learn to drive" and entered their events with dog stock POS turd with shitty gearboxes and street car final drives is this
MY FAWKIN CAR IS SLOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As a result they quickly adopt desparate tactics to try and maintian their speed because it is so many hours or days before the car gets back up to speed once they slow for a corner.

And soon they inevitably dive too deep into a coprner, fawk up the exit and crash.

I have seen this dozens of times.


Do YOU have to plod along and burn yourself in the same fire?

The one presumption I make is that is some competitive blood in any body's veins who is building a car and it follows from that that they WILL start pushing corners to preserve speed, and as that is where all real fuck ups occur, they'll do the go in too deep, too fast thing.

It is from my point of view (and a few fast guys I have yakked with overseas well actually EVERYBODY I have yakked with in rally overseas) that it is SAFER for the newb to have a certain amount of power and final drive even right from the beginning.
THINK: Eventually you will have to learn to drive not a slugloid street car, but a RALLY CAR and so at some point you better familiarise yourself with a more peppy motor and a quicker car.

THE SOONER THE BETTER.

Because the most import thing is one which John Lane clearly has difficulties with:
When to slow down, or RESTRAINT!

Not suggesting anything radical, but more compression for more TORQUE, some cam so you can over-rev it when approaching a corner and not be forced to shift up, then twice down, some gearing to multiply torque so the car WILL GET BACK UP TO SPEED once you've braked down to a safe speed to corner.

Without power there is no BALANCE, no stability, and at the speeds that most stages are, you need some reserve to help balance the car at higher speeds.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

John a feller who wants to go fast will use a turbo motor to get there.

A feller who wants to get out in the woods sooner will use a close to stock turbo motor with a box behind it that will not blow up when he gets the manic twitch that we all do and put the dough into suspension, the cage, ect so that even with a very mild state of tune the turbo motor will be making power enough to have the driver giggle. Drop an NPR intercooler in front of the radiator, give it the nice Cossie turbo housing and enjoy.

A turbo motor will also benefit from the nice internals but will not have you driving a slug without putting major effort into it.... But are not required to have fun with it as is more important in an N/A motor.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

JohnLane Wrote:
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> John a feller who wants to go fast will use a
> turbo motor to get there.

Why do you suppose I push Xratties and 240 turbos so much?
Its easy.

But what the motor doesn't maketh for torque, a final drive can just as easily.
Why do you think they made 5.1 gears?
>
> A feller who wants to get out in the woods sooner
> will use a close to stock turbo motor with a box
> behind it that will not blow up when he gets the
> manic twitch that we all do and put the dough into
> suspension, the cage, ect so that even with a very
> mild state of tune the turbo motor will be making
> power enough to have the driver giggle. Drop an
> NPR intercooler in front of the radiator, give it
> the nice Cossie turbo housing and enjoy.
>
> A turbo motor will also benefit from the nice
> internals but will not have you driving a slug
> without putting major effort into it.... But are
> not required to have fun with it as is more
> important in an N/A motor.

Exactly.
But nothing wrong with a "warmish" NA and a proper final drive and some box that isn't TOOOOOOOOO horrible and the 2.95 gearset T5 is just the box.
>
> JohnLane
>
> Overkill is consistently more fun

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Or John, A feller will have an idea to build a so so engine, with questionable suspension and a ethicly incorrect transmission, then he would be referred to you, easily persuaded to spending way too much money, and before he is 20 have plans for a 10k NA RWD corolla of doom. Or so he hopes....

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Keeping in mind that a 240 series Volvo came from the factory with a turbo and can be had for next to nothing in running, driving condition....

That turbo motor can be made to be quite amusing for surprisingly little.

Try that with a Corroda.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

JohnLane Wrote:
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> Keeping in mind that a 240 series Volvo came from
> the factory with a turbo and can be had for next
> to nothing in running, driving condition....

John I tried to convince Timm von D that not only would it be cheaper initially to do a 240 Turbo, but cheaper to run, and eeven more importantly, competitive at whatever level he wants.
>
> That turbo motor can be made to be quite amusing
> for surprisingly little.
Yep i told hime about the very basic spec of Jardevall's school bus 747 K car thing ----and how he'd kick your ass!!!!
>
> Try that with a Corroda.

Well at least "we" got him a roller Norolla for $100, that leaves him with change for nasty bits.
>
> JohnLane
>
> Overkill is consistently more fun

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.