Volvo Dudes Are these any good?

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yeah I wuz... kinda dump huh? Don't worry I'm
> picking them up this weekend!!!
>
> There's the white car and the Light Green car.
> White car has red interior. Light Green car has
> guess? Green interior.
>
> Overall the Lt. Green one is more complete. BUT
> it's sat and sat and no one's driven it for 20
> years. The rusty floors are the green car. The
> dizzy and coil are there. Carbs are siezed up. But
> he's got a DCOE webber on an intake for it that he
> said he'd sell me for $200. Seems like a lot of
> the parts to get the white one running are going
> to come from under the hood of this car.
>
> The White car has mix matched fenders and doors
> due to rust. The owner replaced the fenders and
> doors with clean straight panels a couple years
> ago. He has all new bushings for the suspension
> in a bag.It has newer springs and sway bars on it
> already. A rebuilt engine and new clutch. Exhuast
> looked decent from what I saw.
> Owner was concern with the white car is the rusty
> rockers but to me they aren't that bad. I went
> along both rockers poking with a punch and only
> went through in a few spots. The underneath seems
> pretty dang solid. The red and black panel picture
> with the jackstand is the white cars rocker.
>
> Looks like theres one complete set of trim to go
> with both cars. Driveshafts are out of both cars
> as they're ready to be towed.

I'm glad you've seen the light!

Up here, we call both of those cars rust free!

Definitely snag the DCOE. Is it a single DCOE with a cross over intake? I've got one of those.. haven't tried it out yet.. I heard it's not bad.

That's an unbelievable score. You don't know how lucky you are!

Cheers

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

hudson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is it a single DCOE
> with a cross over intake? I've got one of those..
> haven't tried it out yet.. I heard it's not bad.

They suck big time bad.
>
> That's an unbelievable score. You don't know how
> lucky you are!
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Andrew McNally
> Hamilton ON
> 28

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> hudson Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Is it a single DCOE
> > with a cross over intake? I've got one of
> those..
> > haven't tried it out yet.. I heard it's not
> bad.
>
> They suck big time bad.

That's what I heard about the ones that don't cross over. I heard the ones that do aren't as good as a proper side draft setup, but not terrible.. but like I said, never tried it yet.

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

Wait I got that wrong. Not DCOE. That just popped in my head. I just googled it. I'll have to update later this weekend. I'm pretty sure its a DG 32/36. I remember the numbers for sure.

It not side draft. It's regular down draft like a small holley. And It's got electric choke.

What kinda carbs do you recommend John?

---

Michael LeCompte



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2008 11:51PM by pikespeakgtx.

Looks Like This One

---

Michael LeCompte

The SU's on the car already are decent carbs, K&N make suitable filters and stub stacks. There is a "Standard" brand rebuild kit available from most any parts store for them (I'll dig up the part # when I'm back at home), easy as pie to rebuild (thinners, a gasket kit a couple of screwdrivers and a bit of scotchbrite), only one moving part (dashpot assembly) in the carb -- occasionally need the throttle shafts re-bushed, no biggie.

Tuning parts are available from Burlen Fuel Systems in the UK.

Set up and balanced properly the SU's are nearly a match for a sidedraft Weber. Tuning is done with different needles, dashpot springs and fiddling with the grade of oil in the damper.

You'll need one of these:

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Gunson-Carbalancer-17-4053-100.HTML

Cheers, Ted

---

Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

Hey Ted thanks a lot! That'd be cool if you could find that for me.

Owner backed out of selling me his weber DGV and cannon manifold. I've got a pair of the SU's on a 1.8. The motor I'm using is a b20 that has been "bored out 2 times."(thats what the old owner says, no specifics). So DX or KD nnedles?? The SU's are stuck. I flipped through the manual today rebuild doesn't look too bad. I just got practice doing the aisin on my kp61 starlet.

The DGV and intakes are selling for about 200 on ebay. I wonder if I'll have that much into the SU's by the time they're ready to run. The motor in the car has never been fired so I want fuel delivery to be decent for it's first startup and run, Cam breakin and so on.

I also saw uni-syn sync gauge. You have any preference?

-Michael LeCompte

---

Michael LeCompte

If all you need are rebuild kits, you're looking at $20 to get the SU's working. They usually just need a good cleaning, gaskets and new needles & seats which come in the cheap rebuild kits. Since you've got two you'll need to sync them (talk to your local Volvo, MG or Triumph perv for sync-tool preference, my cars have single carbs).

I usually start by dropping the carbs in a bucket of aluminum safe carb cleaner and letting them soak for a few days.

As to needle selection, can't provide any specifics -- stock is a good place to start, there are charts online which show needle diameters and progression -- essentially the 1st third is idle range, middle third is midrange and pointy third is top-end, you fine tune the mix by jacking the jet tube up and down which determines where the fuel curve starts on the needle. Needles are $10 apiece or so. If your jet tubes are worn out of round, replace them before you try fiddling with the mixture, it'll drive you bonkers otherwise, jet tubes run $15-$20 apiece.

Don't know what a downdraft Weber would run but a single DCOE setup will be at least $400 with a manifold and linkage, twins more, might be able to score a pair of twin 40 DCOE's cheap on fleabay but you'll need to swap jets, chokes, emulsion tubes, etc and source a manifold (Pierce?) unless they come setup for an engine of similar spec to yours.

---

Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

Flea-bay UK could be an easy sourece of Weber DGMS, or DGAS carbies which are 38/38 syncronous opening versions of the lame widdle 32/36 "progressive" thangs.

They look like this:


Don't waste time with a DGV, get wonna these.

They were OEM on Euro 2,8 Ford V6 and they are/were the popular choice for 2.0 Pintos and 1,7 Kents, no reason in the world they won't be as happy and FUN on a Volvo 2,0 as they've been on the countless Saabs I've used them on.

All DGV stuff interchanges.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks John I like the sound of that one with 38's on both sides and gears doing the work. Seems solid as a rock. What up with the DGES ???

I called around heres what I was told. You got: DGES, DGAS, DGMS. All 38/38. Looks like DGES is more common here in the states and is electric choke. The DGAS is either manual or water choke. The DGMS is "an old one, I don't know".

Theres a DGAS on fleabay here in the US, with an electric choke conversion which is rebuilt for 209 bucks buy it now.

The DGES is used on the Toyota 22r's There's a pile of those pickups up here. Might be able to find one of these carbs for next to nothin.

I'm gonna keep my eyes out. Think what I might do is buy a used cannon intake manifold with a weber on it with the linkage. Take the weber off. Find some tweaker here in town with the good DGES weber and trade him carbs plus a little cash for his tweak fund. That way I got the linkage and lower intake for the b20.

---

Michael LeCompte

Keep it simple for now.

You will have bigger problems than deciding what carb/s to run. How long have the cars been sitting.. installing bushings, blah blha getting it safetied.

Lots of SU resources at brickboard.com .. If memory serves right KD needles are the ones that people usually go for.. again on brickboard.com you will find people who will gladly talk for weeks about the different needles and what's right for you... FUN!

Cheers.

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

Andrew,

I sorta drove both cars back from the guys house. Here's the story...

My buddy Thane drove my sc400 and we hooked a tow strap up to the trailer hitch on that and a loop under the front cross member and yanked each home. Emergency brake works in both cars. It'd better right! We strapped a couple old tires on the front of the volvos as a 5mph safety bumper but they never got any use. The cars seem tight enough for my taste already.

I just want to get one running and driving. Then I'll worry about shocks and bushings, and little things like brakes and tires.

-Michael

---

Michael LeCompte

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Andrew,
>
> I sorta drove both cars back from the guys
> house. Here's the story...
>
> My buddy Thane drove my sc400 and we hooked a
> tow strap up to the trailer hitch on that and a
> loop under the front cross member and yanked each
> home. Emergency brake works in both cars. It'd
> better right! We strapped a couple old tires on
> the front of the volvos as a 5mph safety bumper
> but they never got any use. The cars seem tight
> enough for my taste already.
>
> I just want to get one running and driving. Then
> I'll worry about shocks and bushings, and little
> things like brakes and tires.
>
> -Michael

Michael! Good to hear that it rolls tight enough already and the parking brakes work (that can be a major pain in the ass).

You'll still find lots of little bits that will take up lots of time! It's an old car!

SUs are decent carbs.. the biggest downfall is the throttle lag. Fine for a car that's purely transportation or 100% correctness.. but it takes a lot of the fun out of it.

I don't know how much money you have to spend on this project.. but I tend to like to touch things as little as possible or go crazy overkill and then hopefully touch it as little as possible

There are lots of different ITBs (think bikes) that are easy enough to adapt to a B20. I can point you in the direction of exhaust and intake manifold flanges if you like (for custom intakes and exhausts obviously).

I guess my point is make the thing drive able get it registered and on the road then really fuck with stuff.

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

B18 motor in the green car is locked up tight. I pulled the plugs and put PB blaster down the holes. I'll do this for a week and keep trying to turn it over by hand. Ir would be nice to get this this one running first and make sure the SU carbs are cool before putting them on the fresh b20.

-Michael

---

Michael LeCompte

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> B18 motor in the green car is locked up tight. I
> pulled the plugs and put PB blaster down the
> holes. I'll do this for a week and keep trying to
> turn it over by hand. Ir would be nice to get this
> this one running first and make sure the SU carbs
> are cool before putting them on the fresh b20.
>
> -Michael
>

Don't fret too much. Hopefully she will come unstuck for ya.

You need to join brickboard.com (more old car owners) and turbobricks.com (more modification minded folk)

Post something here http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?model=120-130 and be amazed at the help you get.

I _think_ the sus on the b18 are the same as those on the b20 (but could be smaller).. I've never owned a b18.. several b20s and one b16.

---

Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish