Would it be legal to...

That subie hasn't sold yet? Did you throw it on dirty impreza?

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NoCoast
Sounds like Tyler is a perfect candidate for this:
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?7,68865,68865#msg-68865

How far are you from Wichita, KS? Tony Woods
How far from St Peters? Mark and John Huebbe
St Louis - Matt Conte

The list goes on.
Check out all the MO on here:
http://www.rallyracingnews.com/ra/perryville11-res.html

These guys are getting cages done somehow. Either themselves or otherwise. Make friends with them!
You driving up to Ojibwe next weekend?
You signed up for Perryville? Volunteer or crew?
The only way you'll successfully rally is to make some friends with other rallyists so everything isn't so expensive because you and friends can do it instead of paying someone else to do it! Just gotta find the friends with the skillz.

I'm probably 120+/- miles away. I'd be willing to drive there if I needed or wanted something that's there.
And yeah, I make fun of Matt Conte on FB for crashing his Legacy sometimes. And make fun of his girly Boxster. Still better than my nonexistent Porsche, though.
I'd like to go to Ojibwe, but I don't start work until the beginning of next month so no car yet. If I can make it down to Perryville then I'll probably volunteer, and I'll probably run it in 2014 since I'll most likely have a rally car by then.

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NoCoast
I'll have a caged BMW for sale here in a few weeks. Though I'm hoping to keep that one local, it'll be around $4k for a running and driving caged car. Add safety gear, skid plates, gravel tires, dampers, and maybe some better brake pads and go rally!

Cool. What kind of BMW? $4k plus safety and stuff would be in my price range. But I won't be able to buy a rally car until the middle of 2013, though. If you still have it by then and I like it then we could probably make a deal.

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Something about something....dirt.

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NoCoast
I'll have a caged BMW for sale here in a few weeks. Though I'm hoping to keep that one local, it'll be around $4k for a running and driving caged car. Add safety gear, skid plates, gravel tires, dampers, and maybe some better brake pads and go rally with a car that all alternate gearbox and diff and final drive parts are multiple times more expensive, so you just have basically a street car on gravel.

fixed that for you.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham

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NoCoast
I'll have a caged BMW for sale here in a few weeks. Though I'm hoping to keep that one local, it'll be around $4k for a running and driving caged car. Add safety gear, skid plates, gravel tires, dampers, and maybe some better brake pads and go rally with a car that all alternate gearbox and diff and final drive parts are multiple times more expensive, so you just have basically a street car on gravel.

Yeah, outrageous...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-528i-535i-E28-635csi-633csi-E24-3-91LSD-188MM-MEDIUM-CAS-LIMITED-SLIP-DIFF-/350587513651?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a0a4eb33&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E23-E24-E28-E36-Clutch-type-Limited-Slip-Differential-LSD-188mm-Spool-/360472897962?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item53eddbe9aa&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-188mm-4-10-Ring-and-Pinion-Gear-Set-/320825940305?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab2b75951&vxp=mtr

I bet Dave spent more than double this to get his Supra differential rebuilt with a 4.56 final drive that lasted about 20 miles... Wonder who set that deal up? Who? Who?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-318i-limited-slip-differential-4-45-lsd-/320964121558?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abaf3d3d6&vxp=mtr

Sure the box becomes a 2-5 gearbox but who cares, my WORLD CLASS Ford Motorsport Z-spec T5 is a 1-4. 5th gear is totally and completely useless. I can't use it even on the interstate. Maybe once the 4.3 final drive is in I might be high enough revs to make it useful but who cares, it's a decent 4 speed gearbox. When you have torque, that makes up for it.
Plus isn't having a 2-5 box seem pretty desirable from a shifting standpoint. Like a dogleg first gear and with deent stages, you'll spend most of time going back and forth between 3rd and 4th.

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Grant Hughes

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john vanlandingham
so you just have basically a street car on gravel

It's often occurred to me that the people who seem to show up consistently at events and stick around the longest tend to either be inherently wealthy or driving what is basically a street car on gravel.
What's so wrong with that? Don't you spout off about how Merkur and Volvo stuff is good cause they are decent stock and have good powah out of the box for the 2.3T stuff? Guess what, a stock 2.5L goes pretty good and just the basic stuff, intake, exhaust, and a chip, they'll be one of the more powerful Group 2 cars out there, without fancy long rod engines or ITBs or stand alones or or or...

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Grant Hughes

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NoCoast

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john vanlandingham

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NoCoast
I'll have a caged BMW for sale here in a few weeks. Though I'm hoping to keep that one local, it'll be around $4k for a running and driving caged car. Add safety gear, skid plates, gravel tires, dampers, and maybe some better brake pads and go rally with a car that all alternate gearbox and diff and final drive parts are multiple times more expensive, so you just have basically a street car on gravel.

Yeah, outrageous...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-528i-535i-E28-635csi-633csi-E24-3-91LSD-188MM-MEDIUM-CAS-LIMITED-SLIP-DIFF-/350587513651?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a0a4eb33&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E23-E24-E28-E36-Clutch-type-Limited-Slip-Differential-LSD-188mm-Spool-/360472897962?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item53eddbe9aa&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-188mm-4-10-Ring-and-Pinion-Gear-Set-/320825940305?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab2b75951&vxp=mtr

I bet Dave spent more than double this to get his Supra differential rebuilt with a 4.56 final drive that lasted about 20 miles... Wonder who set that deal up? Who? Who?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-318i-limited-slip-differential-4-45-lsd-/320964121558?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abaf3d3d6&vxp=mtr

Sure the box becomes a 2-5 gearbox but who cares, my WORLD CLASS Ford Motorsport Z-spec T5 is a 1-4. 5th gear is totally and completely useless. I can't use it even on the interstate. Maybe once the 4.3 final drive is in I might be high enough revs to make it useful but who cares, it's a decent 4 speed gearbox. When you have torque, that makes up for it.
Plus isn't having a 2-5 box seem pretty desirable from a shifting standpoint. Like a dogleg first gear and with deent stages, you'll spend most of time going back and forth between 3rd and 4th.

Who? A "good buddy" of Sean Medcroft.
And why don't you have the 4,3 diff in the car? You have had 3 for what 3-4 years?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
And why don't you have the 4,3 diff in the car? You have had 3 for what 3-4 years?

More like six or seven years. Mostly because there was never a good solution for mounting diff in rear beam, I kept waiting for the square rear beam that was pictured apparently nearly done in 2006, and I didn't really have access to stuff to fabricate a mounting method on my own nor did I want to trial and error my way into it.
Though now I've seen Sean's car rolled on that setup and I sent money earlier in the year to William for his custom arms and a square beam. We'll see though...

Hey did the suspension stuff get sent out yet? I want to get my car moved and start reassembly asap but need that insert to get it rollable. And Scott leaves in 8 days and wanted to try to get some shake down in this weekend.

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Grant Hughes

I'll probably end up getting a RWD car from Retarded Stage. Then after I think it's ready to go, it'll fall apart or blow up or something.
I don't really want to build anything. How much would it cost to have a cage-builder build me a cage and do some other prep work? And how long would it take? Just a cage, seam welding, and taking all of the sound deadening material off? Two or three months? More, less? I'd be willing to spend $1,000-ish on a 242 shell, throw $3-4,000 at a roll cage and prepping, and then do the other stuff myself. Stock engine should be okay, right? I don't need anything fast yet. Hoping to spend about $6,500 for a mostly basic Volvo. Is that realistic? I'm hoping to have a stage-ready rally car by the end of next year.


http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=263969

Or I'll just buy this.

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Something about something....dirt.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/15/2012 02:45PM by Houdini91.

Why seam weld and remove all the goop if you're just going to wrap it around a tree?
I'm building driveable cars for $3500-4000 depending on how much the base car costs me.
Figure around $2k for a decent suspension setup from JVAB or similar.
You can get most of the safety gear for anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on brand and such.
I usually tell people that regardless of car, you'll probably spend around $8k, that's including brake stuff, safety, skid plates, suspension, wheels, and tires.
You can easily get less than that so $6500 is not absurd.

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Grant Hughes

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NoCoast
Why seam weld and remove all the goop if you're just going to wrap it around a tree?
I'm building driveable cars for $3500-4000 depending on how much the base car costs me.
Figure around $2k for a decent suspension setup from JVAB or similar.
You can get most of the safety gear for anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on brand and such.
I usually tell people that regardless of car, you'll probably spend around $8k, that's including brake stuff, safety, skid plates, suspension, wheels, and tires.
You can easily get less than that so $6500 is not absurd.

If I buy my own Vulva and pay you to build a cage and do some prepping, how long do you think it would take you?

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Something about something....dirt.

Quote
Houdini91
I'll probably end up getting a RWD car from Retarded Stage. Then after I think it's ready to go, it'll fall apart or blow up or something.
I don't really want to build anything. How much would it cost to have a cage-builder build me a cage and do some other prep work? And how long would it take? Just a cage, seam welding, and taking all of the sound deadening material off? Two or three months? More, less? I'd be willing to spend $1,000-ish on a 242 shell, throw $3-4,000 at a roll cage and prepping, and then do the other stuff myself. Stock engine should be okay, right? I don't need anything fast yet. Hoping to spend about $6,500 for a mostly basic Volvo. Is that realistic? I'm hoping to have a stage-ready rally car by the end of next year.


http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=263969

Or I'll just buy this.

Funny thing is with that car is how one obsessive whim "I want 300 hp' which led to another whim "I want to do the V6" led to so many other really absurd "solutions' since the V6 made at least 520 bhp at like 13 psi boost.
And over 500 ft/lbs of torque. All that engine power---totally idiotic on a 2wd car on gravel has to have big parts behind it...and I'm the one that sourced most of the things tjhat make it a reliable 500+ powerplant.. The oEM rods were weak, bent and broke eventually so I found some close and a) bored the big end about 2mm, narrowed the rods around 2mm, cut the tang slot for the tang on the back of the rod bearings, bushed the rods, specced the pistons since the rods were longer. I had already found the jericho ex Nascar dog-box and tripple plate clutch and Lane had gone and spent a couple of thousand for a trick back Ford 9" back axle...which is a heavy beast..

But the motor is so insane that the axle ratio has been chosen not to do what most normal people use the axle choose 'em for--to slow down the engine's revs and make it into torque, this beast by going to a 3.37 or something simiilar, its point is to piss away power..and Lane was seaching for a 3.08
Look at the numbers and remember how much things cost

Fire Breathing Monster.....500 ft/lbs x 2.25 first* x 3.37 axle =3791 ft/lbs
warmed B23T done right..300 ft/lbs x 2.95 first x 4.3 axle = 3800 ft/lbs

Fire Breathing Monster.....500 ft/lbs x 1.5** second x 3.37 axle= 2527 ft/lbs
warmed B23T done OK.....300 ft/lbs x 1.94 second x 4.3 axle = 2502 ft/lbs

Fire Breathing Monster......500 ft/lbs x 1.11*** third x3.37 axle =1870 ft/lbs
Warmed B23T done OK .....300 ft/lbs x 1.33 third....x 4.3 axle =1725 ft/lbs

Fire Breathing Monster......500 ft/lbs...x 1.0 fourth x 3.37 axle =1685 ft/lbs
Warmed B23T done OK......3000 ft/lbs x 1.0 fourth x 4.3 axle = 1290 ft/lbs

So ft/lbs. what about that lbs thing?
A warmed over B23T car could weigh 300lbs less easily, and importantly the car made 500+ ft/lbs on a dyno; on gravel it fails to hook up and has to be backed off in a (mostly) futile attempt to hook up and go forward..
That 40% more torque causes endless problems.

And not all the figures for the warmed over B23T is within a smidge of what a OK Subie or Mitsubitchy make cause the torque and the gear ratios are so close to that.

And the Volvo B23T is easier to drive hard and that's worth a lot.

*Jericho has either a 2.31 OR a 2.19 first, thats close enough

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

That sounds pretty cool, but I'm a n0ob so I wouldn't want much more than stock HP/torque. I wanna focus on simplicity and durability since I'm so new at rallying and stuff. And if I had those parts I doubt I could just go to TurboDicks and say "Hey, put down your Pabst and sell me some parts. My car dun blowed up."

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Something about something....dirt.

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Houdini91
If I buy my own Vulva and pay you to build a cage and do some prepping, how long do you think it would take you?

Depends on the size of that postal money order or thickness of the wad. Need it done in two days, we could probably pull that off.
Realistically, it takes us a few weeks, though I usually request the car come in with no interior, dash pulled, and ideally the sound deadening removed. Why pay me to do something that anyone who is serious about rallying MUST be able to do.

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Grant Hughes

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NoCoast

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Houdini91
If I buy my own Vulva and pay you to build a cage and do some prepping, how long do you think it would take you?

Depends on the size of that postal money order or thickness of the wad. Need it done in two days, we could probably pull that off.
Realistically, it takes us a few weeks, though I usually request the car come in with no interior, dash pulled, and ideally the sound deadening removed. Why pay me to do something that anyone who is serious about rallying MUST be able to do.

Sounds reasonable. If I pay someone to do something for me then I'd rather pay them all at once in case something happens and I can't pay them the full amount or something. And yep, I'd be sure gut it and everything. A few weeks sounds great. I'll contact you when I get everything sorted out.

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Something about something....dirt.

I remember thinking, "i can rally for $5K!" I laugh now. I now know i am sucker for a good project. i estimate i am looking at at least another $3500 for suspension, fire gear, HANS and spare car. Thats not including license fees, tires, entries, fuels etc. After all of this the car sits in my driveway and rots. Good luck with the journey.