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DeathCanRacing
Found a toyota 4runner axle at the junkyard. It came with 4.56 gear and open diff. I will use the 4.56 gears but not sure if i should weld the spider gears or try to find a good clutch type diff.

Cut slots in the floor pan for the 4-link setup. I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch heim joints 3/4 inch .120 wall tube for the 4-link and 3/4 inch heim joints 1 inch .120 wall tube for the panhard rod. Does that sound sufficient?

Sometimes I look at the pics of what some of the guys are doing with the rear of their Volvo's, and I wonder If I'm wasting my time.
Justin, Its pretty cool that your able to just hop into it like this. Way to go!

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Enablers, All of you.

Sometimes I look at the pics of what some of the guys are doing with the rear of their Volvo's, and I wonder If I'm wasting my time.
Justin, Its pretty cool that your able to just hop into it like this. Way to go![/quote]

Thanks Bob. I have wanted to do this for a long time, but didn't have enough time. I still don't have enough time but i'm trying to make it work.

Making progress on the rear.

Hey there,

thats a lot of progress there!

Look out for where your seats are going to mount vs. those 4-link boxes,from the pics they seem like they are going to be close. In my car the seats are about 8 inches in front of the step-up.

The rear is finally coming together. It will be nice not having to move it in and out of the shop with the forklift anymore. I am going to wait on mounting the panhard until i get the rear coilovers. i'm thinking about integrating the panhard mount in with the shock mount so the panhard will be as long as possible.

Now you going to double skin and then armour up and make a stout skid for the front lower pick up?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

looks like your going to have a lot of travel, are you going to cut a channel for the drive shaft too?

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I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

Backside, gotta make it so the stud heads clear



Zing zang!



Ta daH!!!
Toyota 4 runner, now a Volvo.. Nice strong 8" unit, bigger halfshafts than many Ford 9" units..

FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE

Now just gotta drill a few holes lessee x is 2.125 y is zero, then x is .886 x Hmmmmm

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Now you going to double skin and then armour up and make a stout skid for the front lower pick up?

Thanks for the input, John. I will add that to the to-do list.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Backside, gotta make it so the stud heads clear



Zing zang!



Ta daH!!!
Toyota 4 runner, now a Volvo.. Nice strong 8" unit, bigger halfshafts than many Ford 9" units..

FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE

Now just gotta drill a few holes lessee x is 2.125 y is zero, then x is .886 x Hmmmmm

Looking good. I can't wait until i get them. Should i go with a one piece drive shaft over the stock two piece?

Quote
DeathCanRacing

Quote
john vanlandingham
Backside, gotta make it so the stud heads clear



Zing zang!



Ta daH!!!
Toyota 4 runner, now a Volvo.. Nice strong 8" unit, bigger halfshafts than many Ford 9" units..

FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE

Now just gotta drill a few holes lessee x is 2.125 y is zero, then x is .886 x Hmmmmm

Looking good. I can't wait until i get them. Should i go with a one piece drive shaft over the stock two piece?

A one piece swinging up and down will work, been done, just a clearance question, so yeah maybe. Got to get the diameter right...sumpin about "critical speed times length".

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

looks like the 240 needs as much tweaking as a fox body mustang.

its looking good keep up the good work

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Quote
tdrrally
looks like the 240 needs as much tweaking as a fox body mustang.

its looking good keep up the good work

It's not a NEED per se..

But in both cases and Corollas and RX7 and Bowel Movement Wonder old school its really easy..what i call "grunty work" and it simplifies things so much its worth making the little effort it is, especially if a guy listens cause i ain't sheetmetal guy so I came up with ways that other guys that are less sheeetmtal guys than me can do it and have it come out good and not some hatchet job.

Its a sorta Why wouldn't you since its just Sawz-all and weld.?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ready to pack and ship:
Front hubs with Bugpack 2.2 in 14 x 1.5 studs with that nice lead or 'speed nose"




And the Toyota 8" now Volvo with same nice fat 14mm studs.



Those stud are the hot sheeet when you have a wheel where the studs are down a counterbored hole and you need to start the nut.
With those you poke the nut into the socket and cram it in and spin.
Fast...and way way stronger than crappy little 12mm intended to go get groceries..

Hell we beef up everything else, its negligence that more people who know better don't push this one detail..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So, on something like the 14mm studs - do you just use a tapered reamer to open-up the stud holes in the wheels?

(that is, with the ASS-ump-shun there is enough "meat" in the wheel, and you don't need to enlarge the counterbore to fit the larger nut and socket)

'Nother thing - the rear axles I notice are flat across the wheel mating surface, but the fronts have a small "step" in them - is this (or CAN this be) a weak spot where the nut is clamping the wheel across a "bridge" rather than face-to-face?

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Parfois, on fait pas semblant!

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