What do you think is good oil pressure?

Talking about the 4G63T..brand new rebuild...OK, got a guage in the car. With the car warmed up it shows about 20 psi at idle, at 3500rpm about 70psi, at full burn 7000 rpm it shows 90. I know it's on the high side, but with all new parts it seems maybe ok.

I've got more miles on this motor than I did when the last one came apart. Not taking her easy miles either. I'm on the 4th oil change. 3rd one came out a minute ago...clean. Filter looks good too. Runs strong. Starting to feel good about it.

See some of yawl at Sandblast tomorrow or Saturday!

SOUNDS GOOD MY MAN, GLOW WITH THE SCHMO

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hey Jason, engine ran! 10th overall! Great! now sell that thing while it runs and has a good record!!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I took er easy the first couple of stages. Very rusty driver and a brand new co-driver (brother). Engine ran GREAT! Very strong and sounds good. Ran some ok stage times but unfortunately I lost the new altenator belt on the last stage. Overheated quickly, but I caught it and we changed the belt in 12 minutes at night. Lost 5 spots, but finished without damage.

Thanks for the help...I think I built a good one!

Jason, I have similar oil pressures in my 4G63.

I'm glad that your final stage problem was minor.
When we went by, you had your head buried under the hood!

Be sure to retorque your head.
I find it necessary after every event.
Usually one or two of the ARP studs will have loosened on the exhaust side.

Do you know why your alternator belt came off?
If the tension was correct, and all pulleys are in alignment, make sure that if you still have one of the mitsu harmonic balancer crank pulleys, that it's not coming apart. (put a screwdriver behind it, and give it a pry, check for movement)
(I've had this happen on my 2g, first the a/c belt jumps, then the alt. Hopefully none end up entangled with the timing belt)

Good show!

Thanks, that's good to know. Seems to be regulated to less than about 90psi...it never gets higher than that.

I'll check my ARP head studs also.

Not really sure why the altenator belt got chewed up and spit out. It's always screeched, but never come off. Doesn't seem to matter how tight it is. I've used a couple of different crankshaft pullys too...maybe I need a brand new one??

Kinda sucks to lose time on stage like that. It's a bit of a tough belt to get to with the frame rail there and stuff glowing hot!

When does it screech, Jason? Shouldn't happen. Are you using a top quality belt like a Gates or Goodyear, or NAPA Premium?

Regards,
Mark B.

It's always seemed to do that. I've used a couple of different belts (never lost one until now though). Seems to be medium rpm. It'll squeek a bit at idle, then screech until about 3000 rpm...then it seems to grip and not make much sound. No idea...and I haven't worried about it too much because it hadn't culminated in any kind of a problem before. I'll try a top notch belt this time and see if it makes a diff?

That's not normal. ('No kidding!' you say.) Are the pulley diameters standard? Ever clean the pulleys with BrakeKleen when the belt is off? What kind of tensioning adjustment is there?

Mark B.

Yea, pullys are std. I haven't cleaned them in a bit...hmmm. Maybe I should. Kinda last thing on my mind as I was putting it together I guess.

I'll paraphrase what Mark said...."that ain't right".
Again, make sure that the crank pulley isn't moving axially from the crankshaft.
(looking down on it from above, rev the engine, you should see ZERO axial movement)
Also make sure that the crankshaft pulley can't move axially by prying.
If there's any movement with either test, replace the pulley.