Stitch welding.....all or nothing?

So, I've seen how the VT Sport car guys do it.....not gonna happen.

Is it worth it to do 'half' (or a third?) of the car? Interior, trunk, wheel wells/quarter panels, engine bay (if I decide to drop the engine)....

Basically the stuff you can easily reach, and not the stuff you can't.

Is this worth the effort as a DIY project or no?

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/23/2008 10:43PM by Jon Burke.

I'd say some of the most important stuff is in the engine bay.

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Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

Another way to "stitch weld", you're probably already aware of, is Structual panel adhesive urethane. In tests it's been proven to be as strong as a weld. Ok, hard for me to believe it's as strong as a weld, but probably almost as strong.

It might be an easier way out for you in the areas you don't want to weld.

http://www.autobodysupply.net/category-s/79.htm

Duramix 4176 4178 4179

These 3 are probably your best best if you're working with steel. The larger the panel the longer the cure time an working time. You'd have to talk to someone more knowledgeable than me to find for sure which is the strongest.

They also make foams which could be used in your A, B, C, pillars and in the rockers and frame rails.

Duramix 4350 and 4330 are you best bets there.

Anyhow... I grew up in a high-end bodyshop and we used those products and had great results and long lasting repairs. I agree with Andrew and that the areas that really matter are in the engine bay, and any joints such as pillar areas, rockers, frame rails areas and suspension pickup points.

But I'd totally be open to hear more from people with real-world-rally experience, but that's my 2 cents.

-Michael

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Michael LeCompte

oh yeah...stitch! that's what I meant.

"Another way to "stitch weld", you're probably already aware of, is Structual panel adhesive urethane. In tests it's been proven to be as strong as a weld. Ok, hard for me to believe it's as strong as a weld, but probably almost as strong.

It might be an easier way out for you in the areas you don't want to weld. "

actually, I wasn't aware, so thanks for that....something to research.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

VT and other US 'rally' prep shops don't actually 'stitch' or seam weld to even the level that mid 80s rally cars were. They just rely do enough and rely on rich customers. At least that's been my observation.

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Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
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> VT and other US 'rally' prep shops don't actually
> 'stitch' or seam weld to even the level that mid
> 80s rally cars were.


But then again, these cars arent put through the paces like... ya know!

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> VT and other US 'rally' prep shops don't actually
> 'stitch' or seam weld to even the level that mid
> 80s rally cars were. They just rely do enough and
> rely on rich customers. At least that's been my
> observation.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

gotchya, my comment was just going by this...
http://rally.subaru.com/rallyprep.html

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

My opinion on seam welding is to seam weld anything that I can easily get to on this shell. My next shell, which I will start prepping once I get one, I will strip it down to the shell and remove all the glue and seam weld after the cage goes in. But on the first shell, which I am treating as fairly disposable, I only seam welded the seams inside the car.

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Grant Hughes

These aren't rally cars but this applies to all unibody cars. This is an excellent build from a fabricator in Japan who owns Opera Performance. Very Impressive. Notice the areas where he "lapps" panels to increase strength of the unibody. These are the critical areas. The articles are ok but the "related photo" gallery speaks volumes.

S2000
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0611sscp_opera_performance_honda_s2000/index.html
350Z
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0611sccp_opera_performance_nissan_350z/index.html
RSX
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0611sccp_opera_performance_honda_rsx/index.html

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Michael LeCompte



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2008 07:06PM by pikespeakgtx.

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Not rally cars but all unibody cars share the same
> weaknesses. This is an excellent build from a
> fabricator in Japan who owns Opera Performance.
> Very Impressive. Notice the areas where he "lapps"
> panels to increase strength of the unibody. These
> are the critical areas. The articles are ok but
> the "related photo" gallery speaks volumes.
>
> S2000



Don't understand what you mean by "lapps".
Cut and paste a photo or two to illustrate.
>
> 350Z
>
> RSX
>

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

By Lapping I mean welding oem panels over high stress areas in order to increase the overall strength by doubling up the material.

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Michael LeCompte

a couple more high stress areas in the b and c pillar areas

And he's doubled the thickness of the oem floor pan in the rear hatch area.

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Michael LeCompte



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2008 03:33PM by pikespeakgtx.

Maybe that's only necessary on hondas.

Oh OK. That's called "double skinning" in the car prep world.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Well, overlapping makes sense too. Or Multi layering


How I stitched my car was I started doing everything between the strut towers on the "floor pan/suspension areas" ... then I got bored and needed TIG practice... so pretty much EVERYTHING between the strut towers is done now. Even the roofskin and I drilled out plugs around the door and side window openings.


Yes... WAY to much work. I like the glue idea

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