I stumbled into pictures of JVL's Duratec-powered Capri project last week and thought I'd throw out some of the few little details I've learned working on the Mazda version of the engine.
First, I have been told that the Ranger block you used in that Capri has different accessory mounts than the rest of Mazda's engines. I don't know if this is true or not, so here are some pictures of the side of a Mazda6 block to compare to your Ranger block (hopefully you can post them up next to these for comparitory excitement)
Sorry I don't have a very good picture of the left side of the engine...
There are at least two different belt routing schemes designed to work on the MZR/Duratec. The engine in the above pics uses the MX-5/Mazdaspeed3 layout, with the alternator on the exhaust side, A/C on the intake side, and a power steering pump mounted to the head.
With no power steering, you'll probably want to run the Mazda3 routing, like this:
Ditch the A/C compressor on the bottom, of course....
A Mazda5 alternator is SUPPOSED to be 100A, though I haven't been able to confirm that. I think it depends on options, since my base model Mazda5 has a 90A alternator. Anyway, they're light and bolt directly to the block without brackets.
For high-rpm use, you can switch to an MX-5 crank pulley, which is smaller. I don't know of any water pump issues, though, so it might not be worth the effort. I also don't know what you're doing to make sparks. If your spark solution involves the crank angle sensor and the trigger wheel that's on the pulley, you need to see if the pattern is the same...
And, you need a front cover designed for the tall 2.3, and the small diameter pulley. That would come from a Mazda6 or probably a Ford Fusion.
This opens a can of worms, though, as some front covers have an oil passage in them to feed the head, others feed the head through a hole in the head gasket surface.
If the Mazda6 had that passage, it would be here:
but its in the front cover. You don't want to mix and match parts from the two different oiling strategies. it's not worth the effort.
Also, be careful that any head gasket you use has the right hole to match the oil passage you have. I've made that mistake. I've seen others make that mistake. If the valvetrain is really loud after a head gasket swap, that's probably why...
Finally, last part of my brain dump:
MX-5 oil pan designed for 1.2G cornering. Probably won't clear any Capri crossmember, but there it is, just in case...