how do you keep those volvo motors bolted down?

Any volvo 240 people have hot tips for motor mounts? My 30 year old stock mounts gave up after 30 minutes of minor abuse. Shocking!

-Al

hot trick around here on ice racers is hockey pucks

---

Chris

Easy just copy this.
The engine sits STILL but with rubber, its pleasant





These for trans mount and cross member:



Here's the off the shelf crossmember for Ford Xratty doing duty in Kevins 240 with T5:



Easy, doooood.

Hey your bushings are on the way to Tim's.

And 24 bushings were sent Priority Mail to Ontario yesterday, Chris

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

The bushings arrived yesterday.

-Tim

Hot damn! No more stuffing beer can shims in the struts!

alkun Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hot damn! No more stuffing beer can shims in the
> struts!

OK, but whaddya stink about the motor and trannie mounts?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

ratchet strap mod???

you'll be a baller on turbobricks

I like, I like!

Just looks like some work (yikes!) I was thinking about some cheapskate homemade HD mounts in the stock location for now, and maybe going for the JVAB mounting brackets when I go to Level Three in the motor compartment.

by the way los suspendos were delightful. I just kept holding down the gas and running over everything. No bottoming out, no bouncing off the ground, just fun fun fun. It did kill a new ball-joint in about 5 minutes. I am going to take it all apart and inspect this weekend. pics to follow.

-Al

An upper third mount is easily done from the top of the passenger side strut tower. As for the stock mounts. The hockey puck is possible but very hard so tons of vibrations. with some good rubber mounts you can drill through them and then bolt the top plate to the bottom plate so they hit the head of the nut/bolt before tearing themselves to pieces. Also the diesel mounts are made firmer from the factory because of the greater torque loads.

many threads can be found on this subject at tbricks.

By the way I am very jealous you are out there getting to play with your sooper bitchn new toys.

---

Zap zap my ass...

don't hate me because I'm beautiful...


thanks for the info.

I've got additional mounts made of rear suspension upper arms shortened as needed to bolt up to the valve covers and the strut towers. No more engine mount failures. The V-6 has beefier engine mounts then does the four and I would break them every time I went out to play before the upper mounts.

Kevin's mounts are tres sexhay.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

You could try these as a direct fit replacement and see how they work:

http://www.r-sportinternational.com/polymounts.htm

I run some sort of mounts they use on Volvo trucks. I guess they're used in the back for something like holding things (dump beds and such, I guess) onto the frame rail. Rubber but unbreakable. Don't know if I'd ever be able to find another set.

Sweetness that the car is out there running.

...Brian...

rallybrick Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You could try these as a direct fit replacement
> and see how they work:

They seem to be failing right and left. the steel washer is ripping right off in extremely short order for many guys.
Only some local Portland guys seem to have luck with them.

Ya know a whole lot of old school cars used their own versions of either the Ford "World Cup" crossmember (where the same leaf spring bush was mounted horisontally but on a pyramid welded onto the crossmember, and brackets bolted to motor short [ shaped (but 90*) OR they did something more or less the same as the 909 Sierra chassi rail mounts mounts which I copied for the Xratty boys and for Kevvie.

See the GpB Celica at the Finnish restoration shop
>
>
>
> I run some sort of mounts they use on Volvo
> trucks. I guess they're used in the back for
> something like holding things (dump beds and such,
> I guess) onto the frame rail. Rubber but
> unbreakable. Don't know if I'd ever be able to
> find another set.
>
> Sweetness that the car is out there running.
>
> ...Brian...

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Here are links to the Ford Motorsports Manual Scans

http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i124/rwsrally/escort_rs2000/

http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i124/rwsrally/sierra_4x4/

http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i124/rwsrally/escort_wrc/

http://www.mack73.com/hosted/RS2000.zip

http://www.mack73.com/hosted/Sierra_4x4.zip

http://www.mack73.com/hosted/Escort_WRC.zip

http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i124/rwsrally/escort_gpA/

http://www.mack73.com/hosted/escort_gpa.zip

I hope this helps

---

It is useless for the sheep to pass resolutions in favour of vegetarianism, while the wolf remains of a different opinion.
William Ralph Inge

TANSTAAFL

Alright. So for the NA car, the rs2000, it has:

1998cc.
86mm Bore
86mm Stroke.

214 Bhp at 7200rpm
230 Nm at 5500rpm

I presume redline is somewhere around 8000rpm.

So...what's the rod length?
What's the comp ratio?

Interesting that they're using a plenum instead of ITBs. From what I can see, the runner length looks about right for a 5500rpm max torque though.

The 6spd XTrac gearbox has a nice set of ratios. With the final drives specified it looks like you can choose whether it winds out at around 95, 110, 120, or 135.

---

Self-righteous douche canoe