Oil...

Don't know much of the technicalities behind oil and its composition. My question is simple. Expensive stuff like Motul and leave it in for two or three rallies or cheaper stuff like Mobil 1 and changed every rally? Same question for gear oil..I have a 2 litre 16v VW. Thanks.

Carl

Shell Rotella-T 20W50 and run it for 1200 miles.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

interesting read

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Carl! you'd better get some practice with that new car of yours, Colin won't be very happy if you let me beat you this year... ha!

Engine Oil - Run Mobil 1, change it after 3 or 4 rallies.

Gear Oil - I like redline 75W90. (not the non-slip, the regular stuff) I think there's a gripper in there, yes? That's been working really well for me. Change it every 3 or 4 rallies. Or more often if you think there might be something funny going on and want to check for metal flakes.

Of course you can change the fluids after every event if you want, and have the time and money to burn. I used to (time that is, not money), but the engine oil/gear oil looks pretty much the same after 4 events as it does after 1 event. The stuff would probably last way longer, but you do have to draw the line somewhere.

These are very general guidelines, and presume there is nothing suspiciously wrong with the engine or transmission. Change your fluids as often as you want, but understand that your probably wasting your money. Honestly, you could likely run crappy tire economy fluids for multiple seasons without changing them and not have any problems.

My turbo motor gets Rotella T syn 5w40 HDEO.

It's got the good old zinc additives which are lacking in the Mobil 1 and most other modern oils.

And it's only like 10-15 bucks per GALLON.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

Bobistheoilguy is your friend if you decide you want to write a PhD thesis on the matter or if you want to really learn the ins and outs of motor oil.

You can send samples of your oil out Blackstone.

They'll generate a oil replacement schedule, formulate specific formulas for you, tell you if your air filter or oil filters are up to par, and even tell you how your bearings are doing.

A sample report looks something like this:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_report_3.html

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Michael LeCompte



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2008 01:37AM by pikespeakgtx.

Live a little. I'm using ELF 20W50 currently and change it every rally. (If'n I was actually doing any rallies)

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Gone fishing

When i was N/A i used Rotella 15w40 conventional oil..it was like $13/4l CDN and i changed it after every rally.

With the turbo motor i run LubroMoly "Race oil" 10w60. Generally change it every couple rallies.

Gearbox and Diffs only ever get Redline Shockproof. Sometimes light, sometimes heavy, sometimes a mix. Stuff is freaking awesome.

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Chris

Do It Sidewayz Wrote:

>
> Gearbox and Diffs only ever get Redline
> Shockproof. Sometimes light, sometimes heavy,
> sometimes a mix. Stuff is freaking awesome.
>
> Chris


Funny, I get people telling me all the time; "Oh that Shock proof will prematurely wear the synchros out"

I'm like Who gives a shit about synchro wear? I'm much more worried about smashing some teeth off a gear. I can still drive it without synchros!

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Gone fishing

I get people telling me i'm crazy all the time, and i just counter with they are crazy not to run it.

Sure...running heavyweight when it's -20 below is fun....sometimes the handbrake won't even hold the car back in neutral.

But...i've had 2 gearboxes on the floor apart beside eachoher, one with shockproof, the other with "normal" gear fluid. The difference was staggering.

Made me a convert for ever...we buy the stuff by the case now.

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Chris

david amor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Do It Sidewayz Wrote:
>
> >
> > Gearbox and Diffs only ever get Redline
> > Shockproof. Sometimes light, sometimes
> heavy,
> > sometimes a mix. Stuff is freaking awesome.
> >
> > Chris
>
>
> Funny, I get people telling me all the time; "Oh
> that Shock proof will prematurely wear the
> synchros out"
>
> I'm like Who gives a shit about synchro wear? I'm
> much more worried about smashing some teeth off a
> gear. I can still drive it without synchros!
>

I've heard that too, but about their MT-90. then my dad, who had worn synchros in his '92 talon was having grinding issues in 2nd and 3rd (worn synchros) put it in his gearbox and all issues disappeared. so, whatever.

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Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

david amor Wrote:
-
>
> Funny, I get people telling me all the time; "Oh
> that Shock proof will prematurely wear the
> synchros out"
>
> I'm like Who gives a shit about synchro wear? I'm
> much more worried about smashing some teeth off a
> gear. I can still drive it without synchros!

No shit. I see people scrapping (YES - SCRAPPING) perfectly good transmissions because the synchros are a little gritchy. Fuck, just get a longer shifter, or wait half a second when shifting. And if you gotta shift clutchless it's way easier if there's no synchro in the way, even if it's still 36 little tiny splines instead of six big huge lugs.

But yeah, prematurely wear the synchros... about that. I figured "fuck the synchros" and went to Shockproof because I got tired of eating bearings. What I found is believe it or not the synchros actually work BETTER. I dunno how it worked, but after a couple years of Lightweight in the last RX-7 trans I ever used, I could get the thing started off by nudging the shifter against 1st and using the synchro cone to get the car moving fast enough to let it engage.

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Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2008 06:59PM by Pete.

I've been using the mtl/shockproof cocktail for quite some time, in fragile Mazda gearboxes, with some success. But after talking to Mr. Lane, who talked to Bill Scribner, I tried using Torco 85w140 RGO oil in the rear end, centerdiff, and gearbox.
This guy builds 2500HP drag cars, and the rear ends on these cars don't last long. Most guys were running heavy shockproof and were getting one (1) pass outta the rear end, with galling gearsets needing replacement before they went out again. Mr. Scribner reports that when those drag cars are running this Torco stuff, the rear ends went from dying every qtr mile to surviving several sessions.
Golly.
What I've found is that the stuff is incredibly goopy, thick and sticky and a horrible mess to clean up when you spill it. Brakecleen can't touch it, the film strength is such that scrubbing it down takes much much elbow grease, and you still have a layer of gearlube on whatever it landed on. Starting the car on a cold morning, I notice the idle drops a couple hundred rpm when I let the clutch out; it's that stiff when cold. But that effect goes away after no more than a minute, and putting the clutch in or out then does nothing to the idle speed.
Shifting when cold feels exactly the same as that car did before I put this goop in it, and when it's warm, it shifts much smoother and faster than it did before.
Trans temp in the rallycar shows somewhat lower running temps than it did with shockproof in it.
That film strength has (hopefully, so far so good) gotta help this tranny stay alive. I figure every little margin helps. I'm using it in my street car too.

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Jay Woodward
Snohomish, WA
'90 Mazdog Frankenprotege
Chronologically, 46...

Use Clean Oil - the rest is not all that important there are only minor differences that mostly come into effect when the oil is no longer clean ie been in there too long.

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In the long run reality always wins.