i need some motivation

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aj_johnson
You want motivation... Go help tech at a rally, so much motivation I actually skipped the beer last night to make sure the pistons got cleaned.

skip...beer...? does not compute.

Are you looking at the appendix or an old rule set?
For RA, 1.75X0.095 for most important bars, 1.5X0.095 allowed for non-critical/optional stuff. Regardless of weight, etc.

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NoCoast
Are you looking at the appendix or an old rule set?
For RA, 1.75X0.095 for most important bars, 1.5X0.095 allowed for non-critical/optional stuff. Regardless of weight, etc.

appendix and new rules.

i get it now. once i looked at the pic with the gray, red and green bars it all makes sense.
http://www.rally-america.com/info/2008_Rollcage.pdf

if i read it right appendix allows old cages to be 1.5X.120 on main bars. remembering details from appendix is where the confusion on weight came in to play. and for some reason the old SCCA rules i memorized 11 years ago still pop up first in my brain.

i would really like to do what Havas did to the sill bars on this cage:
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showpost.php?p=205709&postcount=65
doing sill bars like that seems to be mostly labor intensive and only adds a small materials cost. seems being the key word in that sentence.

talk about inspiration. andrew's work is pretty damn awesome. wish i had that guy's (customer not andrew) disposable income. however, all he has now nearly 1 year later is a shell with an amazing cage in it sitting in his garage.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 06/17/2011 04:50PM by Greg Donovan.

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NoCoast

Quote
Greg Donovan
Grant, I am very curious about the cage kits. I don't think we will be they far along by then but I will keep in touch. Have you considered offering a partial kit? Like just the stuff that needs bending.

That's pretty much exactly the plan.
Is it a 2 or 4 door? We have a 2 door to cage after it's done at SCCA RallyX nationals. Also have a 4 door to cage. Once I'm unemployed in August I'll have plenty of time to work on projects. We'll be driving out to Ojibwe and would happily drop it off to you if it's done by then.

Greg, open light is a blast! I want to tear out my 2.2t that I spent years on and go back to an NA. Stupid right? I would like to see how light you can get one without spending any money.

Mine is the two door and I am getting twitchy! oh well the car is apart currently while I am doing the shell prep work and some other stuff.

Grant, I wanted to ask you about the Havas sill bars.

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Greg Donovan

Quote
NoCoast
Are you looking at the appendix or an old rule set?
For RA, 1.75X0.095 for most important bars, 1.5X0.095 allowed for non-critical/optional stuff. Regardless of weight, etc.

appendix and new rules.

i get it now. once i looked at the pic with the gray, red and green bars it all makes sense.
http://www.rally-america.com/info/2008_Rollcage.pdf

if i read it right appendix allows old cages to be 1.5X.120 on main bars. remembering details from appendix is where the confusion on weight came in to play. and for some reason the old SCCA rules i memorized 11 years ago still pop up first in my brain.

i would really like to do what Havas did to the sill bars on this cage:
http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showpost.php?p=205709&postcount=65
doing sill bars like that seems to be mostly labor intensive and only adds a small materials cost. seems being the key word in that sentence.

talk about inspiration. andrew's work is pretty damn awesome. wish i had that guy's (customer not andrew) disposable income. however, all he has now nearly 1 year later is a shell with an amazing cage in it sitting in his garage.

I did similar bars in my old Datsun usuing 2x3 box tubing along the sills. A later owner actually tried it out on a large stump. The door and sill folded flat, the rear lower main hoop moved in a scoosh and that was that.

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FunctionAuto
Grant, I wanted to ask you about the Havas sill bars.

They're pretty. On my car I just sat the sill bar down on the sill and welded it in places. Much less work and just as functional.

Ever see the shit Iorio did to the bottom of the sills on one of his GC's? I personally thought it looked poorly thought out but okay.

here is some info on my transmission.
1st gear 3.454
2nd gear 2.062
3rd gear 1.448
4th gear 1.088
5th gear 0.825
Final 4.111

how bad is it doc?

here is the offending vehicle:

here is the damage. we have all new sheetmetal.

first up get the engine harness in our hands and get the engine in it and running. that is the big problem with no one being in a hurry. seller has some parts scattered that he has to still deliver. no worries, though. should have them soon and in goes a nice newly rebuilt ej25.

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Greg Donovan
here is some info on my transmission.
1st gear 3.454
2nd gear 2.062
3rd gear 1.448
4th gear 1.088
5th gear 0.825
Final 4.111

how bad is it doc?

here is the offending vehicle:

here is the damage. we have all new sheetmetal.

first up get the engine harness in our hands and get the engine in it and running. that is the big problem with no one being in a hurry. seller has some parts scattered that he has to still deliver. no worries, though. should have them soon and in goes a nice newly rebuilt ej25.

Those aren't all that bad for ratios specially if you avoid the bigest tallest tires.

The gentle bump on the rear isn't so bad either, ya oughtter be able to graft in some fresh tin from a donor. You can get a stepper from like Eastwood which you bite the sheetmetal and it gives you a 1/16 step so the panels lie flush and under... I did some extensive grafting of panels on my van when i was out in fawkin Bawstin and just did the step on the add-in part and a series of 5/16 holes about 1' apart for doing home made spot welds and just zapped 'em in, skimmed with Miracle-Mudâ„¢ and painted.
It is a rally car after all...

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

yeah, we have a little flanging/hole punch tool that seems to work real well. need to get a good cutoff wheel or something to get some clean cuts. wish we had a plasma torch... (i know it aint needed but i used one once and damn are they cool!)

we are thinking we just need to go just ahead of where it is wrinkled and follow the body line.

we have a whole new 1/4 panel and rear finish panel that came with the car. of course the body guy we know seems to think it won't look good unless we switchout the whole panel. teammate and i are more in agreement with your idea. if it looks too funny just slap some big stickers on there,that way we get some more HPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES too.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2011 11:51PM by Greg Donovan.

If you have an air hammer, these little nibbler attachments work good for cutting sheet metal:

Its called a "sheet metal trimmer chisel".
Heres one for $5:
http://www.toolrage.com/prodview.asp?sku=ATD-5702
No sparks, no high rpm cutting disks, no dripping molten metal, and no slag to grind off after.

I've also gotten a remarkable amount of life out of my $10 harbor freight die grinder. I have probably over 50 hours of use on it and its still going strong. The body saw, on the other hand, is one of those harbor freight items that falls apart right away.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2011 08:04AM by Carl S.

Harbor Frieght does seem like a crap shoot for stuff like that.

dont have an air hammer yet. how much does that chisel deform the metal?

It doesn't deform it noticeably from my experience. I'm sure if it got dull or you tried to go too quickly you could muck things up, but they're reasonably idiot proof. You would still probably need a cutoff tool of some sort for seams and creases and tight areas.

thanks.

what exactly do i need to ask for when ordering cage materials?

i know i need 1.75X.095 DOM tubing, but are there ather things/terms i need to know to make sure i get the right stuff? i know that some sections can be 1.5X.095 too.

is this the right stuff?

1-3/4 OD x .095 wall x 1.560 ID 1020 DOM Structural Round Steel Tube

i am fortunate to have a steel supplier here in fargo (10 blocks from my house) but i am unsure if they can get me what i need.

is round tubing bushing stock the right stuff if it is 1020 DOM and the proper dimensions? this is what the company in fargo has listed on their company PDF. would be nice if i could get it local and not have to mess with shipping costs. but i dont want the wrong stuff either.

also how much is a good amount to order for my sedan?

i saw that some have ordered 10 20' sections and had some left over. that seems like a lot.

looking at a few options.

Have a shop send me the bent pieces in a kit, and then make all the straight bars ourselves.

make it all here in fargo with the help of some good welders we know.



Edited 8 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2011 09:14AM by Greg Donovan.

How about buy the cage kit from safedrives? pre bent, needs final fitting and welding. I think he even has that "Rally car in a box" kit for your Subaru. Cage, seats, belts ect.